I ran this question already,but i thought a better description in title might get more spoons in the soup,as i have still not been able to figure this thing out.I should just give the car to my mother, she would never notice a thing wrong with it the way she drives. But, seriously, any help is appreciated.

The car is 1990 300e 3.0


Car ran great before replacing water pump and resealing top timing cover. Crank position sensor was removed and re-installed. Car starts just fine,idles smoothly, and then wether in park/neutral/drive, slow acceleration fine up to 2000 rpm, then bad misfiring and/or stall. Keeping below 2000rpm the car shifts normally and at about 45mph I can drive no faster without going over 2000rpm and misfiring/stall/severe studdering. No dash warnings lighting up other than when they should be prior to start. Fuel filter was changed 10,000 miles ago.Have checked all engine compartment electrical plugs, all are in place, and all connectors are clean.

distributor work re-checked and all was fine.


Happy new year

donnnnoooooo

My guess and only a guess is that you've got a loose wire somewhere - 2000rpm to my mind coincides with when an engine management system (or a little diaphragm on the side of the distributor) would be changing the timing of the spark. You know ye olde advance and retard mechanism...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Golfinfool,

I agree with Army in that this is an electrical problem. You said that the crank sensor was removed and reinstalled. Why? water pump replacement and timing cover resealing shouldn't require that. Also, given how old our cars are becoming, a NEW sensor should have been installed. When the CPS fails usually the car will not run, but it can cause a strange problem like this. Some people have tested their sensors, found they test fine, but the sensor was the problem anyway! Go figure! I really think that could be your problem.

Other things to check:
-OVP (over-voltage protection) relay. located behind battery under cover.
-EHA valve on fuel distributor
-Check vacuum tubes and elbows on the engine, all of them. cracked vacuum lines can cause problems like this, especially the ones that go to the EZL ignition control module.

Hope this helps

__________________
Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green
2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue
1999 Ford Ranger Green

Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17
1985 Silverton 34C