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Old 02-02-2002, 06:52 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
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W124 (1990 300TE) Tips, Please re Self-Leveling Accumulator Replacement

My 1990 300TE (152,000 mi) has the pogo-stick, harsh rear end performance suggesting accumulator replacement required. From what I read here and in the MB Service Manual (S-2350-124) this task appeared very simple -- so I picked up some new accumulators and copper gaskets (for the banjo bolts). However, the simple Service Manual instruction: “Disconnect pressure line (S1, S2, P4) at accumulator (4) using open box wrench” ... is easier said / printed than done.

I’d welcome tips from anyone who has tackled this job on a similar vintage vehicle (these 12-year old connections are frozen solid). I have initiated some penetrant treatment on all exposed fittings, but there is not a hint of give in either the hydraulic line fittings or the banjo bolts (and I don't want to butcher either). With the hydraulic fluid and pressurized accumulators I am reluctant to put any serious heat on the hydraulic line fitting or banjo bolt. Any professional tricks / tools / recommendations / special procedures? Thanx much ...
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Old 02-02-2002, 08:01 PM
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Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
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You will have to use 2 wrenches...One to hold the fitting and the other to loosen the line. I have had to spray them with oil, let them sit a day, then hit them with a little heat. Not so much that it blows, but enough to get loose the connector.

Good luck.
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Old 02-02-2002, 10:16 PM
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Another hint: use a line wrench in place of a regular open end. (wrench with an opening, but grabs more than just 2 flats? Do you understand what I mean? used on hydraulic hose fittings normally.) It seems to be harder to round off the fitting this way. At least if this is the same fitting as on the accumulators in my 560SEL. Gives you more "grab" before it strips, it always seemed to me.

I posted a long, drawn out story about doing the cells on my car a while ago. Search under my name if you have some time to read my ranting.

Good luck.
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