I replaced one on my '89 and the original was rubber and the replacement was rubber, and of high quality. Original got damaged by someone putting a jack on it crooked most likely.

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Quite, you wouldn't want to 'upgrade' to those post '89 ones.

They are certainly plastic technically though, Butadiene probably, just better at the job. Strikes me post '89 the quality of manufacturing engineering at Merc started to give ground to 'value engineering'.....

cheers

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Actually, this was really as of model year 1993. In 1989 the old engineering mentality was still in place.

So can you even buy the "older" style rectangular rubber ones?

And if not, can they be removed from junk cars at all?

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Point...there is a slight but noticeable drop in build quality between my '89 and '93 TD's...too much plastic too

@ ps2cho...tried to find a number in EPC but can't find them, 'lift shoe' unfortunately gives nothing relevant... not sure which section they are in.
They pop out fairly easy, I did mine on a hot day - or 'last summer' as we say here took them off when I had the 'rust access points' sorry, 'jacking points' in the sills done..

cheers

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cheers!!

I have only owned four W124s -- a 1992 300TE, two 1995 E320Ts, and a 1994 E500. There were definite (but subtle) differences between the TE and the E320 wagons. I am also very familiar with the running changes that were made from 1992 to 1994 on the 500E / E500, and there was some cheapening done during that model's 4+-year production run (1991-1995) that is tangible (the early closed-deck vs. later open-deck M119 blocks are one single example of this).

I also own a 1987 560SL and a 1989 560SEC and I don't see any tangible differences between my cars and those produced for the 1990 and 1991 production years (the final years of those cars), respectively.

What happened was that the Japanese luxury marques (particularly Lexus and to a lesser extent Infiniti [and Acura in 1986]) came on the scene starting in 1989 and it took a few years (after arrogantly dismissing them initially) for MB to actually plan and make production changes mid-series in response to those marques' debuts.

Remember that MB instituted its HUGE price drop for the 1993 model year. I can definitely tell you that that price drop was not planned for back in 1989 when Lexus introduced the LS400 at a price point of $35,000.

This should be the rubber part for the W124 and W201 cars, at least the early models.... I don't know if actually fits the later 124s or not.

201 899 00 08

Attached Thumbnails

 

Gerry, the part number & photo you show above (201 899 00 08) is the plastic plug for the jack hole in the rocker panel of pre-1990 models, for the emergency crank-style jack in the trunk. It's not the jack pad under the car designed for lifting with a floor jack or vehicle hoist.

The under-bod jack lifting point pad is in the EPC as "Take-up device lock at floor, hard-rubber buffer used for jack". Group 58, subgroup 015, callout number varies with chassis.

The pre-1990 jack pad is part number 124-997-04-86, photos below. This pad will not fit 90-up cars because the rocker panel will interfere:





The 1990-95 jack pad is part number 001-997-95-86. The photo below is NOT what it looks like on the car. The pads on my 1994/95 cars are round & stubby, and do not have that weird cylindrical standoff sticking up out of it. I suspect that plastic center piece is an installation or removal aid, meant to be pressed up into the pad when on the car? It definitely is not supposed to be sticking down 3 inches below the car. Regardless, after looking at ps2cho's photo again, it appears that the plastic itself kerploded on the crappy Meyle part. Just buy OE, they are less than $10 list price each.

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Oops, you are correct. False alarm !! I as thinking of the rectangular (early) ones you were thinking of, which you posted above. Big oopsy.

The pads in the photo from the OP and this most recent photo look like the pads I just put in a 2000 C230 and a 1999 C280. Curiously they both were missing the right rear pad.

You place the pad over the hole in the frame just as in the photo and then pound the piston in from below. The piston part will then be flush with the rubber bumper.