I have an 81 300d non turbo...bought it a few months ago and the transmission had waaaay too much fluid in it.

Drove it for two months, no problems.

Stopped at a stop sign and the car would not move.
Rpm's were high but nothing.
I put it in Low and it barely (with lots of slipping engaged) then nothing again.

And haven't got any movement since. "Park" on the gear shifter works.

I have a "haynes" manual (horrible but better than nothing) and tried to find the trans fluid pressure rod from the throttle linkage. I don't think I have one.

I'm confident I can R and R the transmission, but if it needs a rebuild, I need to send it to someone with more know-how and tools.

Any advice/ideas on what the problem is???
Anybody know someone in San Antonio, TX for a rebuild/diagnosis

thanks

pls help
I'm having to drive my rusted 92 corolla thats sure to keep me single

Does reverse work?

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

Not at all, certainly would have helped with towing it.

Well that stinks, rules out the infamous B2 piston. Did it die in a pool of tranny fluid or is it all still together? Reason I ask is because the symptoms you describe would fit having little or no trans fluid so it could have a pump failure perhaps, or if there was a huge puddle perhaps just a line popped off. If you have time, this sounds like a good opportunity to tear it all apart and find something broken inside.

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

There are parts of that transmission which can be repaired or replaced with out removing the trans. But if you could screw up the courage and energy to R & R it, you are still an awfully long way from being ready to over haul it. You wouldn't know where to start. I would think if you can R & R it, I would look hard to find one for sale that at least has a replacement guarantee. I think that is your best bet, and if you havn't pulled one yet, you are looking forward to a good education,

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

nope no fluid loss. I took off the pan hoping (using that word in the loosest meaning possible) to find something broken. nothing

lol
no doubt.

The R&R looks pretty straight forward...but I'll hand it over to a pro for the rebuild

One place where we fail to inspect and you did also. If there is fluid in the transmission, then with the engine running you can tell if the oil pump is working by undoing either trans cooling line at the radiator. That is useful information in that it is not real difficult to replace the pump in the transmission.

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

I've been wondering if it might be the pump. Didn't think of a way to chk it, which seems obvious now.

Thanks.

If its like an engine oil pump, seems unlikly that it would be the problem tho.
but its an easy chk

What do you think about changing the filter too? If the transmission has something broken in it I don't want to buy a filter only to check the pump, then have to change it again.

I would have been getting some shifting problems if it was the filter...right???

Well what I am talking about is the transmission oil pump. As soon as the car engine is running, and even with your shift selector in neutral, the TC is running because that is tied to the flywheel, but the mainshaft enters into the transmission body and the first thing it runs through is the oil pump. This pump pressurizes the TC, also all the valve bodies in the transmission. So number one is the oil pump. If that has failed your vehicle will not move. An instaneous failure almost certainly has to be an hydraulic pressure failure, eith the pump is not pumping or in some other part of the transmission, a gaskey failed or a casting broke and it doesn't have any pressure. Now if you have your old filter you could re-use it for a test - but make sure it is not contaminated with debris. Then dump in 6 of 7 quarts of oil if you wish to make the test, (transmission oil of course). Sometimes the shift selector can come off, sometimes it breaks off inside the transmission. These cars are getting quite old, anything can happen.

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

^ agreed, I was thinking a pump failure as a possibility too since there is probably no fluid pressure. Unfortunately you've got to take off the transmission in order to replace it since it is right at the front (toward engine). Once you do, I don't think it is too hard to do. However, who knows what other damage that would have caused.

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

But have shelved it for a month...kinda in a dilemma about what to do with the car.

Taking it out wasn't as bad as I thought, but it did take 5hrs. Of course two hours were on two bolts. But next time, and I hope there won't be a next time, I probably could get it out in half the time..maybe.

Anyway. The torque convertor looks like a metal tab got sheared off (runs the pump???) and there is a broken ring on the shaft. I have no idea what the inside looks like

I am having the hardest time finding a transmission. The used ones I have found, I might as well buy a running 300d. Best price $550 90day return.

And the numbers on the side of the trans, the ones that tell which one it is...well they have been removed. I assume its a 722.118 not sure tho

I've been searching the forum for compatibility in the transmission. I'm wondering if a 82 turbo trans will fit
any help is much appreciated

If the pump gears broke, that would be the reason. Why not just replace the front pump and put it back together?

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Here's some information on taking your existing transmission to bits

722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY)

I reckon you've got a 722.118.

Changing just the front pump and replacing the torque converter sounds like it might be a good fix.

However, you might also have worn splined shafts - see thread link above for more information - in which case you either need to find a replacement 722.118 or a different 722.1 for parts.

Fitting a 722.1 transmission not designed for your car will cause difficulties such as shifting points, throttle linkages, and vacuum system.

If you want to see which transmissions (say a 722.3) that will fit your car I might have the information you need here

FSM + EPC data => Chassis / model / transmission / drive train information

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I figure there probably is an internal reason the for the pump not working...hopefully it is just the pump. Seems an odd failure tho...
I'll have to ask around to see why the pump would fail