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Old 06-25-2012, 02:50 PM
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201 Ignition replacement how-to guide

Sorry about the length and complete lack of pictures. I didn't know anyone needed this until after I was done.

I'm here to answer questions, but attest that this was a lot of trial-and-error.

This fix was needed due to the dreaded stuck ignition key. Much searching on the Haynes manual and the Internets had revealed that if my key couldn’t move, I was in for a lot of pain. I jiggled, I wiggled, I sprayed graphite and Kroil and WD-40, I tried various power told-based vibratory devices. Nothing would move the key. So I resulted to more aggressive solutions. First off, know that my key could be inserted and removed easily. When I turned very aggressively, I could see a very faint wiggle in the steering wheel, and would see the lock shift when I cranked on the wheel as well. I dreaded that the column lock was engaged, but more on that later. After looking around, I decided that my best bet would be to order a new cylinder from my dealer. I had to go in personally and show my registration and license, but it was much cheaper than I thought ($40 US). 2 days later I had it, and examining the new one made a lot of this easier to visualize.

Briefly, the lock mechanism in these MBs consists of the cylinder itself and a black sleeve that secures it to the column assembly (see attached pic).

This sleeve is supposed to be easily removed via a home-made wire tool when the cylinder is rotated into the proper position. This can happen because there are two channels in the sleeve at roughly 2:00 and 8:00 along its outside that lead to the clips holding it in place (the former is conveniently marked on the front collar of the sleeve by a divot). If you look straight at the ignition, you can see in the silver facing of the lock two shallow holes at roughly 11:00 and 5:00. These rotate with the cylinder, and line up when the key is turned to position 1, the “on” position when you start your car. Ideally, position 1 exposes the front of the channels, which allow access of the tool. Of course, if the key won’t turn, the channels can’t be accessed, so the sleeve won’t budge.
The smooth silver front piece of the lock cylinder (which I call the “hat” because of its resemblance to one) and the sleeve are made out of what I believe to be the same thing Superman’s cape is, and are specifically constructed to stop people from doing this. So good luck. The procedure I followed may not be the only or best way to do this, but it did work for me. It was a process-of-elimination thing, and so you may be able to get away with just a fraction of what I did.

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201 Ignition replacement how-to guide-ignition1.jpg  
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:50 PM
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pt 2

Overall, the purpose of this was to expose the channels without the key in order to use the wire removal tool. I noticed that the “hat” was not cast as part of the tumbler assembly, but rather a separate piece held on by a single pin at 9:00 (12:00 is keyslot vertical). The Internets have said that this can be broken by placing a wide screwdriver into just the front 8mm of the keyway and forcefully turning quickly. I didn’t want to break any more than I had to, so I used my carbide cutter on the Dremel and simply ground at the 9:00 position where the hat “brim” met the rest, just inside the collar of the sleeve. It only took about 5 minutes, minimal coaxing with that thick screwdriver and once severed, the hat would turn freely around inside the sleeve, bypassing the cylinder. In this way, I didn’t need the key to open up the tool ports.

Thinking I was done, I tried for a good hour to make my wire tools work. According to my Haynes, it should be a prong of 2mm wire, with 60° angles cut into the inside edges of each of the arms. The idea is to insert the arms, get under the single retaining clip (behind the 2:00 hole), and simultaneously press the release button at the bottom of each channel that holds to sleeve in. This did not happen. Perhaps I was just impatient, but I also heard from the Internets that the key being in position 1 was necessary to free it. I tried two thickness wires and filed different bevels into the tools, but nothing worked. So I changed plans. NOTE: When grinding the hatpin out, I eventually went too far and hit the cylinder on the other side. I think this fugged up the key way, and from there on out, my key wouldn’t fit anymore. This is why I had to keep adding more destruction to the mix. If you’re careful, you may not have to do all the rest. Maybe.
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:51 PM
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pt 3

In retrospect, I can tell you that the Superman Cape sleeve is the only thing securing the lock cylinder to the column. So by removing it, you remove the broken lock. Similarly, the only part holding the lock to the sleeve is the front part, which I call the collar and a single clip around its exterior. So I took the dremel with a few cut-off discs, and let ‘er fly. I recommend covering as much of the area around the steering wheel with newspaper and tape, as sparks and steel shavings will be plentiful. But again, only took about 5 minutes. I took care to only take the front of the sleeve off, trying to see the complete cylinder edges when looking straight on. Again, I tried the tools and pulling like mad with needlenoses, but I still couldn’t get it. Impatient, I blamed my poor Dremeling, and mussing up the cylinder (see above).

Last edited by Zazothex; 06-25-2012 at 03:00 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:52 PM
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Next step, getting the cylinder to turn. So I drilled out the tumblers. This was surprisingly easy. I think this is due to not having the hat in place. The lock internals are mostly pot metal and brass, and was cake compared to the previous work. I started with a bit just a tad wider than the key way, and gradually increased diameters. I used my new key and cylinder from the Dealer as a depth guide, placing a ring of masking tape around the bits to mark where I should stop at the end of the tumblers. Again, use newspaper and towels (and of course safety glasses) to stop the shrapnel from hurting you or your ride. This took a bit more time, as I was careful. Once clear of the tumblers, I had access to the back of the keyway, and could actually turn my car on and start it with a screwdriver (yaaay). At least now I could get power to my windows to roll them down and get some breeze.
Again, I’m not sure if any of this was necessary, but once the cylinder was drilled, I had an easy time of it. I clicked the screwdriver to 1, placed in my wire tool and the cylinder pulled right out with little effort on the needlenose. Once out, I had a much better view of the sleeve internals, and had better access to the tabs holding it in. I would up using two separate wires to hit the tabs at the rear, pulling them outward slightly. This is hard to describe, but it really apparent once the cylinder is out. The sleeve nearly fell right off once the tabs were flipped. NOTE: Contrary to what I’ve read, the sleeve was not screwed on in any way, it was pressed-fit and held in just with the clips at the rear. Once I decided to cut into the collar, I found a replacement here at Pelican for $20.

The rest is easy, insert key in new cylinder, place into sleeve, click all into car. Make sure key is in position 1 to return and the column internals are where they should be.
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:55 PM
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final thoughts

I highly recommend disabling your factory alarm when doing this. My 190 has other issues, so mine was already turned off at the relay box. I've heard that the car does not like to be started without the lock cylinder in, and will activate the horn/headlight alarm when done, and disconnecting the battery is the only way to kill it. Similarly, screwdriver starting sometimes trips something in my electrics, and disconnecting and reconnecting the battery is the only way to get power again to the car.

PM or ask here for questions.

Cheers
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:55 AM
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Location: Asheville North Carolina
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The lock on my 190E was broken when I got the car. It would operate everything except the starter. I got a used lock from a parts car, and moved the cylinder from my broken lock to the new one.

While I was at it, I went ahead and replaced the ignition switch itself with new from Benz.

It's been fine since 2007. I also had a new key made by Benz. I sure didnt want to have to keep a bunch of different keys to get into my own car.
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My first Mercedes Benz. 4/6/07.

1984 190E (201 024) 2.3L four.
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:56 PM
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