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  #1  
Old 09-21-2012, 11:29 AM
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Anybody have pics of a w140 with an EMPTY engine bay? to fit a turbo OM602

I need to confirm something... anybody have pics of the engine bay WITHOUT the engine? Thanks

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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
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  #2  
Old 09-21-2012, 01:23 PM
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Try this
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Anybody have pics of a w140 with an EMPTY engine bay?  to fit a turbo OM602-empty-bay.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2012, 01:49 AM
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Ey thanks!!!! Which portion does the engine mount to? Do you have a top view?
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant)
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  #4  
Old 09-22-2012, 09:00 AM
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Looks like it mounts to the horseshoe shaped mounts on each side of the engine bay, then a 3rd point behind the transmission.

-J
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  #5  
Old 09-22-2012, 09:46 AM
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Any thoughts about "rerouting" that crossmember? I have an engine with a different oil sump configuration. Initial plan of attack is cutting the crossmember to clear the pan, then welding in a brace to go around the sump, can do it so the brace goes both fore and aft of the sump. Something like an "O" instead of a "C"...

What else is welded on the crossmember? Are any of the control arms mounted to it?
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant)
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2012, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locry View Post
Any thoughts about "rerouting" that crossmember? I have an engine with a different oil sump configuration. Initial plan of attack is cutting the crossmember to clear the pan, then welding in a brace to go around the sump, can do it so the brace goes both fore and aft of the sump. Something like an "O" instead of a "C"...

What else is welded on the crossmember? Are any of the control arms mounted to it?
What type of engine? If its gas or modern diesel you're in for a small engineering feat to pull off sensors/computers to make it run.
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2012, 08:47 AM
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its a turbo 602, afaik there are no electronics involved... We're just worried about the actual mounting. There are 2 crossmembers, I think modifying the rear one is acceptable? But I need some input before we commit. The other stuff that may get in the way are the tie rod and steering damper.
A member got back to me about a 602 that he disassembled... I might be able to get an oil pan and pickup tube. BUT, if mounting the current engine as is is doable... then I won't be needing the sump. here's the engine in question... it's a turbo 602 from a korean SUV


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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant)
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2012, 02:11 PM
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Even if you could reshape the rear crossmember inboard of the LCA aft attachments, what do you do with the center link that runs parallel?



Sixto
87 300D
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2012, 02:37 PM
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Can you measure from the transmission flange to the crossmember in the car then compare to with the distance from the transmission flange to the forward edge of the sump in that Ssangyong 602?

Sixto
87 300D
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  #10  
Old 09-24-2012, 08:06 AM
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I'll try to visit the engine shop this week to get measurement... visually though I think the sump will sit right smack on the crossmember. Those links are gonna be a problem.
Are there any "issues" if we re-shape the center link to clear the pan? It's gonna have a "deeper" indent. I don't know if there's a "rule" as to the allowable angles for this modification. Don't want the center-link buckling.
Believe it or not, it's cheaper to modify/fabricate here than to source and ship parts.
Exploring my options. I want to finally put an end to this w140 saga. hehe
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant)
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2012, 11:40 PM
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UPDATE...

here's the pic of the transmission flange's proximity to the sump... this'll definitely hit the rear cross member. Is the oil pan too deep in general?
Here's another shot... there's a big part of the sump protruding to the side... haha


here's an optional readily available oil pan... but its the wrong shape again I think...



What are the main differences between a w124 603 and a w140 603 oil pan? any pictures of BOTH?
They never made a 602 for the w140 right? So an oil pan from a Mercedes 602(w124,w201) wouldn't necessarily fit the w140 correct?

Best recourse is to either reroute the cross member and the centerlink... OR fabricate an oil pan.
Any opinions? This will be made to fit one way or another. So no walk away comments ok? hahaha

I've already made a small deposit on the engine... it ran ok when we tested it. fired right up. Will post a vid.
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant)
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  #12  
Old 09-25-2012, 01:34 AM
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603.970 (90-91 350SD/L) which is indistinguishable from 603.971 (92-95 300SD/S350)



603.960 (87 300D/TD) which is indistinguishable from 603.961 (86-87 300SDL)





You can put a flat plate in place of the side sump in the .96. You'll lose 1-1.5 quarts of sump capacity.

I'm not aware that the 140 came with a 602.

A 602.960 (87 190D turbo) or a 602.961 (90-93 300D 2.5) will fit in a 140. I stake my neighbor's cat on it. To make it work without modifying the sump or rear crossmember, you might have to move the transmission forward. For that matter, the same is probably true in a 124. The 300D 2.5/250D transmission flange is further forward than in a 300D. For that matter, the Euro 200D transmission flange is further forward still.

Modifying the center link isn't as straightforward as offsetting it in the straight ahead position. Turn it from lock to lock to see whether the pitman and idler arms hit the sump. Looks to me from the second picture in post #11 that the idler arm will smack into the sump with minimal right rudder. No amount of modifying the center link will prevent that. But I still think you might be able to mount the engine far enough aft that you have to modify at most the trailing edge of the rear crossmember, not the leading edge and steering gear.

I have a sense of your labor costs but shipping a Balikbayan Box from the west coast to Manila is $50-60. You can probably find an oil pump and oil pan for $100-150. That's dinner for 6 at HEAT

Sixto
87 300D
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  #13  
Old 09-25-2012, 03:58 AM
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Your INFO is priceless!!!!! Things are starting to fall into place!
I have a lead on an oil pan from a forum member. So It's really happening now.
THE SIMPLIFICATION process of the W140 begins...

Thanks!!! Will be needing all the help I can get.
The transmission is next... it has sat like that ever since the first flood... who knows what condition it's in. It sunk a second time... did I mention that? haha)
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant)
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  #14  
Old 09-25-2012, 10:13 PM
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Brought home the engine today

Garret Honeywell turbo



Bosch IP

Head is stamped "Made in Germany"... it has the injectors tilted to the front of the engine.
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD)
86 230E (-->300D)
87 300D (-->300TD)
68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP)
87 300TD (SOLD)
95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant)
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2012, 10:19 PM
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That's an odd angle between compressor outlet and manifold inlet. Does the charge go through an intercooler in the OE application?

I wonder what the electrical connector into the governor housing is for.

Is there anything in the recess inboard of the engine shutoff actuator when US IPs have the control rod sensor connector? Just a recessed area?

Sixto
87 300D

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