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Old 03-09-2002, 06:49 PM
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Question Should I buy this 16v?

I'm thinking about buying a 16v, and I've located one that's about 200 miles away. It's a silver 1986, 5spd, euro lights, and dtm exhuast. It has 140k miles on it. The owner has told me that it doesn't idle well in the winter, but once it warms up it runs fine. What could this be? Is it a relatively minor problem? What should I look for if and when I test-drive it? Thanks!


P.S. The asking price is 6k.
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Old 03-11-2002, 10:44 AM
Dan Rotigel
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I would suggest you search the archives for similar questions on rough idles. The price seems like a good one if the rest of the car is in good condition, but I really do think you should drive the car first. I have one, and was rather suprised by the way it handled, it is definitely not the luxury-cruiser, nor was it meant to be. Check to see if the timing tensioner update has been completed, its definitely the car's achiles heel!


Dan rotigel
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Old 03-11-2002, 11:59 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Surrey, Beautiful British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 750

are these cars really as advertised? i found one for sale
but was told the heads are out and being re-done.
asking price is also $6k.
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Old 03-12-2002, 10:17 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Near Williamsburg, Virginia
Posts: 358
Right now the 16V is the best performance value you can buy in an MB car. If you compare the horsepower to weight ratio, and acceleration times you'll find that to purchase another model MB that can drop one second off the 16V 0 to 60 time will cost you an additional $15,000 and to drop two seconds you'll fork over an additional $30K to $40K.

The 16V is known for idle problems. But who drives them at an idle? In the past 18 months I have had erractic idling twice. Both times it was fixed by disconnecting and reconnecting the various sensors. I didn't replace any parts.
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Old 03-12-2002, 11:02 PM
Dan Rotigel
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Seem to be a lotta 16v's changing hands this week....

II'll try to bring up new info. I puchased my car for 7.5k with 80k, no rust, not raced, and in good mechanical condition. I wanted a un-molested example, with everything stock. If you are just starting to learn how to work on cars, or want to spend as little $ on repairs as possible, get a car that hasn't been modified. What you end up with might not be as exciting, but at least you know where you start, and what you have. I have the utmost respect for the people who modify their cars in a quality manner, but you don't want a teenager's project car! I say this as a 19 year old...

If the head is being re-worked, I would imagine it had a failure with the timing chain tensioner. This is a good thing if you buy it BUT only if the head is re-done right. Make sure it was done right, with the right parts.

'As advertised' is a pretty subjective term, but I'll say that they are a blast to drive, I always get compliments, and I look foreward to getting into it in the morning. Its not a highway cruiser the way the luxo-liners are, but I did a 14 hour drive three days ago with nary a complaint. Drive one yourself, there is no other way.
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Old 03-13-2002, 07:52 AM
Matt Crooke
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I see a lot of posts on here about Euro lights.....apart from the beam angling because we drive on the opposite side of the road....why are our lights different to yours?
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