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  #1  
Old 03-30-2013, 08:24 AM
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M110 motor oil

I have been doing some research on the correct oil to use in my 280E and it seems like a lot of folks like the Rotella 15W-40. That is the same stuff I use in my diesel. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2013, 09:24 AM
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Yup, either use the Rotella or the Delo 400 lines for the extra (zinc, etc.) additives for the M110. 15W40 is fine.
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2013, 10:11 AM
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i have to disagree entirely.....the chemistry of a diesel-specific motor oil has nothing to do with the chemistry requirements of a gasoline engine.....use Castrol 10w-40wt if u want to use a conventional petroleum oil......thats what my father always used in his Mercedes repair shop, in all the gasoline cars....

all my customers i put AMSOIL 5w-40wt European Car Formula into their gasoline cars.....it is specificly tailored to the additive requirements of high performance european engines.....put it into a 1977 280SE with a m110 the other day, after its first good flush in it's life......quieted it WAAAAY down, valvetrain noises almost completely dissappated, and the motor is smoother and more powerful, and she even called a week later to say that she got about 50 miles more out of her full tank.......so she's happy, i'm happy she's happy, the car is happy too, thats just how it is....
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzDieselTuner View Post
i have to disagree entirely.....the chemistry of a diesel-specific motor oil has nothing to do with the chemistry requirements of a gasoline engine.....use Castrol 10w-40wt if u want to use a conventional petroleum oil......thats what my father always used in his Mercedes repair shop, in all the gasoline cars....

all my customers i put AMSOIL 5w-40wt European Car Formula into their gasoline cars.....it is specificly tailored to the additive requirements of high performance european engines.....put it into a 1977 280SE with a m110 the other day, after its first good flush in it's life......quieted it WAAAAY down, valvetrain noises almost completely dissappated, and the motor is smoother and more powerful, and she even called a week later to say that she got about 50 miles more out of her full tank.......so she's happy, i'm happy she's happy, the car is happy too, thats just how it is....
Ok this sounds correct. I know the rotella is a fantastic oil for the Diesel cars but I didn't think it should be used in the gassers. I'm pretty sure they sell that castrol in the 5 gallon size at Wal-Mart so I will take a look next time I'm there.
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1993 MB 400E 212K - New Project
2014 Honda CR-V 85K - Wife's DD
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1979 MB 280E 90K - Sold
1983 MB 240D 238K - Scrapped
1984 MB 300D 347K? - Sold
1984 MB 300TD Wagon - 188k - Sold
1987 MB 300E 5 speed 258K - Scrapped
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  #5  
Old 03-30-2013, 06:07 PM
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In a colder climate a 5w40 diesel synthetic works well. I have been running my M103 gasser on Rotella T6 for 5 years/35,000 miles and the engine still runs excellent. Burns 0 oil between changes of 5,000 miles!
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2013, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
i have to disagree entirely.....the chemistry of a diesel-specific motor oil has nothing to do with the chemistry requirements of a gasoline engine.
.

Don't want to start another oil thread war but always look at the API service rating on the oil and MB oil approvals. For instance, Mobil Delvac 15W-40 1300 Super, a so called "diesel oil", also has an API service rating of SM which is specified for MY 2010 and older gasoline engines. HD oils of this type typically have higher high temperature high shear viscosity and temperature stability and more anti-wear agents (zinc) which significantly reduce sliding wear on camshafts that do not have roller lifters. These HD oils are a good choice for older MB diesel and gasoline fueled fleets where synthetic oil is not specified. Mark
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  #7  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:10 AM
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Diesel oils will work in a gas motor, and generally exceed the requirements due to the higher requirements of the diesels. Especially true in older gassers where originally they used heavier duty/higher zinc content oils when new.
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'17 Metris(VITO!) - 8k - wifes (OC-10k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 159k - mine (OC-160,000)
'89 420SEL 166k - mine (OC-167,000)
'01 E320 - 171k - dad's (OC-171,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 131k - dad's (OC-132,500)
'01 SL500 - 49k - dad's (OC-52,000)
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2013, 02:07 AM
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Depends on climate, I used 20W50 VR1 Valvoline in mine year round. Also in most of my cars without roller followers.
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2013, 03:55 AM
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Just want to add that I tried the 15w40 Rotella Diesel in my M110. The O2 sensor, which was 1 year old, stopped working within... probably less than 1000 miles. I changed the oil back to a non diesel rated one, replaced the sensor, and all was well. Granted this may be coincidence, but the O2 sensor was fine before the oil change.
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  #10  
Old 04-24-2013, 05:09 AM
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I use diesel oil,because I race some,and Royal Purple cost to much,and really doesn't have many additives.Diesel oil is superior.Watch though some engines have to run lightweight cutting oils.For them I'd use syntheic diesel oil.
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  #11  
Old 04-24-2013, 07:55 AM
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Been running T6 diesel oil in my 300E for about 33k, no oxygen sensor issues. My dad has been running it in his 420SEL for over 15k, no issues there either, runs great.

As my 420 is only a warm weather/seasonal car, I run mobil 1 15w50 in it.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 78k - mine - (OC-80,500)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 8k - wifes (OC-10k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 159k - mine (OC-160,000)
'89 420SEL 166k - mine (OC-167,000)
'01 E320 - 171k - dad's (OC-171,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 131k - dad's (OC-132,500)
'01 SL500 - 49k - dad's (OC-52,000)
'09 E350 4matic Sedan - 129k - Brothers (OC-128,000)
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  #12  
Old 04-24-2013, 10:57 PM
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It may be because I burn more oil, so more of the additives got through to the exhaust. A tight engine shouldn't have a problem.
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  #13  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:29 AM
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thats what they did to modren oils remove alot of minerials like calcium.I suppose I would run regular oil for inspection only
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2013, 05:00 AM
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188K on my C36 that gets thrashed on in high heat, high speed environments, (Las Vegas NV) on 15/40 Rotella T 5K OCI and less than 1/4 quart usage between changes- if that, most likely due to temp changes. No leaks, no funny sounds, no nothing.

I also use it in my 81 280E with 77K on the odo. No issues, none at all.

Can't beat it from a price or performance standpoint; the rest of the stuff on the shelf is made for newer cars, I don't trust that backwards -compatible BS they claim. No reason to.
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  #15  
Old 06-16-2014, 03:01 PM
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Amsoil is not 229.5, but 229.51 Low SPAsh

I haven't posted virtually anything on forums in a long time, couldn't pass this up because I've studied this subject so closely and found out so much in the last few years.
Good on you for wanting good synthetics in your custoer's cars, but begarding Amsoil's marketed "229.5" 5w-40; according to the Mercedes BeVo sheet online, the only MB sheet with Amsoil is 229.51 and it's for the oil that Amsoil is mis advertising and mis labeling as the stronger 229.5. As seen here:
Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids: Engine Oil, Gear Oil, ATF, Coolant, Brakefluid
Most of their synthetics only claim 229.1 equivalence and that's an old spec.

LIQUI MOLY 5W-40 LEICHTLAUF HIGH TECH (Part # 3863 or LM3863) from RM European is the best 229.5 deal going. Very high detergent and robust oil, I use it in my OM602A, M110, and father's Powerstroke 6.0. Audi and VW guys love it too.
Amsoil's universal ATF made my 722.413 stick and created the kind of symptoms the internet is full of, and required two full TC/pan drains to eliminate this aggressively thinning oil. Stick with Febi or Fuchs for ATF and PS fluid. Manual transmissions love Swepco, just like the Porsche guys swear. The only Amsoil product I use is for gasoline and called P.I.. It's not like I'm unwilling to pay for expensive oils, Amsoil is not expensive, considering I pay ~$30 for rear diff fluid from MB, while other's pay more for 75w-140 from Liqui-Moly for their BMW rear diffs. Why can't they get $30/quart?? It's not the 80's any more, Amsoil is living on fumes of glory and manufactured pride. Just know that most oils available now on the retail shelves are for ILSAC or Particulate Filter diesels, like "Delo 400 LE" sneaking into autoparts stores. Unless you have a particulate filter, only use the BeVo list for 229.5 sheet oils, it's what MB recommends for everything but commercial Direct Injection diesels (228.3/228.5 or 228.31 and 228.51 w/P.F.). Even Mobil has snuck in ESP as opposed to SHC on the BeVo list. Total has a North American deviation for their 8600 TIR which claims 16-TBN from Europe but wont be specific about it's formulation here. Schaeffer's 5w-40 is also a particulate filter oil. Delvac MX is a 228.3, the finest non-synthetic I know of available and loaded with good stuff. I've read more than one story of Rotella causing valves to stick in the cylinder head of younger Direct Injection engines with aluminum cyl. heads. Delvac 1300 is for particulate filters also. Again, my favorite is the above mentioned LM-3863, Hengst/Mann oil filter, and Dimple magnetic drain plug. Drain hot and often. If your valves are quiet, they need an adjustment to open up the tolerances to spec, thought mine was nice too until I adjusted the valves and could hear them again :-) Good luck everyone on the oil labyrinth.

==
all my customers i put AMSOIL 5w-40wt European Car Formula into their gasoline cars.....it is specificly tailored to the additive requirements of high performance european engines....
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Last edited by WindyGo; 06-16-2014 at 03:13 PM. Reason: Too much of OP quote included.
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