Changed the eha already, no change

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1990 190E 3.0L

With a brand new unit?

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Yes, maybe a year ago.

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1990 190E 3.0L

You should check your duty cycle and report what it says. Also, can you give a vacuum reading? One at idle, another at 1500rpms or so.

Further more, don't think your injectors are good just because they are not clogged. They can be lettng TOO MUCH fuel at idle causing the misfires, until it can burn it out.

Swapping parts is the most frustrating way to try and fix a car.

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

When your tank is full, does it still run like hell? I'm having the same problem when my tank is a little below 1/2 on my 95 E320. Once my tank gets to that point I'm going to take off my gas cap & put it back on to see if it hopefully clears up. If it does, it could be a clogged venting system.

Should start to act up pretty soon here... I'm currently a little above 1/2.

I shoulda known! Everything fuel/ignition related is brand new. Took it to my mechanic and he said the valve stems were sticking. That would explain why th symptoms went away sometimes. On my way to walmart right now to get some seafoam and fuel additives. This happened after I added some ring seal stuff to the crankcase. Hopefully the aseafoam and fuel additives clear it up. I'm going to go fuel up and take it for a long hard drive too

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1990 190E 3.0L

Please keep us posted on the results. How did the mechanic spot the problem?

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Eugene

10 E63 AMG
93 300te 4matic
07 BMW X3
14 Ford F-150 Fx2

What oil are you using?

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Ismalley, valve stems sticking ... that's a creative explanation. Forget about oil additives. That's what caused the problem initially. A high quality oil will keep the engine internal parts clean. Recommend changing the oil and switching to Mobil 1 15W50.

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Fred Hoelzle

Look at the brand of fuel you and previous owners are using. Its not just about good oil with sticking valves,cheap gas will cause problems with deposits. Using premium fuel is not good enough it must be good quality fuel. Shell and Chevron are good at preventing deposits cheap sams club gas causes deposits. I have experimented with this on my cars and it really does make a difference.

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88 W124 3.0
96 R129 119eng
06 ML350
98 ML320 sold
02 CLK55 amg

How much seafoam are you adding to a tank?

How often?

EDIT: while I picked up a can of seafoam, I noticed there was a seaform treatment for auto transmissions.
Anyone have any experience with it?

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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

so I ran a bottle of techron and used lucas fuel cleaner and the problem is still there. I drove half way to Arizona from California using chevron 80 mph most of the way. I use Pennzoil 20-50, was using gtx 20-50. I took the valve cover off yesterday and tapped on the springs. unfortunately it was night so I couldn't see.

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1990 190E 3.0L

Can you get good compression results when tested despite this problem?

I ask because I had a compression issue on #2 and #4 on mine around May 2012. Had the top end rebuilt with new gasket, new valves, guides, seals, and new timing chain. Compression went back to 185 psi all around.

Was a shot in the dark since there was a risk the compression problem was in the block too (rings/etc).

This poor compression caused similar issues (rough idling and stumbling) and eventually led to stalling.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Have not checked the compression. I don't have a machine. It actually ran fine today and only stumbled a few times. Just as a precautionary measure I had the battery, alternator, and VR/diode tested yesterday and everything was fine. One thing that I would like to add is that I noticed that when it stumbles some the instrument cluster light dims a bit, but just on a rough stumble. Also, when the car stumbles or idles rough there is no change in my actual RPM tach, it remains at a solid 500-750 rpm. Also, my check engine light is on now which gives me code 11, air injection system. I don't know what that means, but I have been getting a code 11 on and off for several years now. Thank you all for your replies in helping me troubleshoot this problem, I really appreciate it. It just sucks that I just got a new/used transmission put in in Dec. and pretty much every starting/charging/ignition/emissions component is new and I'm having this problem. Is it possible the additive I put in messed something up? I'm almost positive this problem was not present until I added Rislone Compression Repair with Ring Seal.

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1990 190E 3.0L

Those snake oils do nothing at all. Switch to a good diesel oil to help clean that crap out whatever it is. Delo 400 15-40 you can get it at Walmart cheap.

You need to address that check engine code. There's a reason why it's coming on.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k