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#1
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67 250S firing order
I've been looking for the firing order for my 67 250s with the carbureted 2.5L straight six. All I'm finding is Ford engine orders. I've worded it many different ways and still only Fords pop up. Does anybody have a diagram of the firing order?
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#2
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15, 36, 24
too young, too old, just right |
#3
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Okay I have the firing order correct then. Is there a certain starting point on the distributor? I can smell it getting fuel, all the grounds are good, and all the wires, plugs, cap, rotor, and ignition coil are new.
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#4
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Okay, so, the firing order is now correct, new plugs, new wires (fully secure), new cap, new rotor, new ignition coil, it's getting fuel, all the grounds are good, timing is dead on.
I noticed fuel is starting to pool around he carburetor next to the firewall. Not sure why. It cranks over but it still seems to have no spark. All the fuses are good as are the relays.....I'm out of ideas....any help? |
#5
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Quote:
If the coil wire is removed from the dist. and held ~1/4" from a ground, is there spark when the engine is cranked? If so, is there also spark at each of the plugs when cranking? |
#6
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Quote:
I'll check the wires for spark again to be sure 100%. In the morning I'm going to rent a compression tester and see if that's the problem. The oil and coolant aren't mixed and I see no spots on the ground under the engine from leaks. |
#7
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Okay so I just tested the ignition coil plug wire and it give off a very very very faint spark. I also tried one that I know for a fact is good from my 72 because it ran before I pulled the engine and it did the same. So it's something with the spark not being strong enough.
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#8
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From what I can find, the 250S has points/condensor type ignition system. Points not adjusted correctly or a bad condensor can cause weak fire from the coil. I have worked on many old domestic cars and trucks, but not on old Mercedes. Maybe some of the older forum members can chime in about these old systems.
Paul
__________________
84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#9
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Lo-Key:
The questions about spark quality were the first steps; now that you know that the spark is very weak, the next question is why. pmc has started you down that path; point cleanliness, correct gap, and condenser quality are some of the factors. Also, what is the voltage at the hot side of the coil, both with key on, and when cranking? This is a step-by-step process; there will probably be a few iterations. |
#10
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Quote:
RayH |
#11
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It's generally on the valve cover.
__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#12
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yeah I found it on the valve cover after I asked then felt stupid for asking haha.
I'll swap the ignition components from my 72 over to this one to see It helps any. I'll check back in after I do so to let you guys know if it's working or not. Thank you guys for he help so far. |
#13
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Alright.....so I swapped over the ignition coil, wires, and all the relays. Nothing changed. There's still only severely weak spark. I did notice though that the ignition coil is getting really hot. I accidentally put my arm on it and it burnt me.
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#14
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Lo-Key:
Suggest you re-read post #9. |
#15
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I checked the point this morning, it's burnt. I have to go back to the part store tomorrow and get another one again, they gave me the wrong one.
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