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  #1  
Old 09-18-2014, 07:40 AM
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Anybody use INA Wheel Bearings?

Need to replace the rear wheel bearings in my 380sl, and Pelican Parts lists INA as an OEM with top marks. But I can't find any reviews of INA wheel bearings anywhere, and I did see an INA bearing race marked Korea somewhere on the web, even though the company is German.

So, I was wondering if anyone here ever used these or knows anything about the company before I go ahead and buy them.

Thanks very much for any info.

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1981 380SL
Chassis: R107.045
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2014, 07:47 AM
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According to google it is the same company as FAG. I know FAGs are good...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
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  #3  
Old 09-18-2014, 08:24 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply, Stretch. But is it possible that INA isn't as good as FAG, considering that some companies have brands that vary in quality?
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  #4  
Old 09-18-2014, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbboy View Post
Thanks for the quick reply, Stretch. But is it possible that INA isn't as good as FAG, considering that some companies have brands that vary in quality?
Yes it is possible.

It is also possible the SKF aren't as good as they used to be.

There seems to me to be a global dumbing down on quality so that manufacturers can remain competitive - well that's the nice way of putting it. You could also say that all manufacturers have bought into a paper work driven quality assurance bull **** attitude where they pretend to be better than they really are...

...problem is that doesn't really leave the consumer in a better or clearer position. All mechanics, technicians, and engineers can do is use what they have got or use what is available.

I reckon it is probably as safe as it can be to buy these parts on the recommendation of the Pelican.

However I will PM a few people who might have industrial experience with these bearings to see if they can chip in with their recommendations too.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 09-18-2014, 03:27 PM
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In researching what I needed to do this job, another question just cropped up; namely, which sizes and how many extra spacers/crush washers should I get in case I tighten the slotted nut too much. According to the EPC, there are 6 sizes that go from 2.6mm-3.4mm for the 380sl, and I have no idea what's in there now.

Since each one is $6 or more and their not returnable, I'd hate to have to get one of each just to be on the safe side .
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  #6  
Old 09-18-2014, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
There seems to me to be a global dumbing down on quality so that manufacturers can remain competitive - well that's the nice way of putting it. You could also say that all manufacturers have bought into a paper work driven quality assurance bull **** attitude where they pretend to be better than they really are...

...problem is that doesn't really leave the consumer in a better or clearer position. All mechanics, technicians, and engineers can do is use what they have got or use what is available.

People that shop on price alone are the ones to blame, just have a look at some threads where posters scream about price rather than value.

As for INA, I've used them on many machines with no problems.

As for the sleeve, it is a tough call as what to get. Bearings are made to pretty tight tolerances so what came out can generally go back in unless housing wear needs to be accounted for.
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  #7  
Old 09-19-2014, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
People that shop on price alone are the ones to blame, just have a look at some threads where posters scream about price rather than value.

As for INA, I've used them on many machines with no problems.

...
Thanks for the brand related advice I've never fitted or used that brand before.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #8  
Old 09-19-2014, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbboy View Post
In researching what I needed to do this job, another question just cropped up; namely, which sizes and how many extra spacers/crush washers should I get in case I tighten the slotted nut too much. According to the EPC, there are 6 sizes that go from 2.6mm-3.4mm for the 380sl, and I have no idea what's in there now.

Since each one is $6 or more and their not returnable, I'd hate to have to get one of each just to be on the safe side .
I've just had a look on Pelican and it seems that you can now only buy FAG or SKF!

1981 Mercedes-Benz 380SL Base Convertible - Axles, Bearings & Differential - Page 2

If I were you I'd just start off with a rear wheel bearing kit and see how you get on. Over tightening is a problem. But there's no way of knowing how many of those crush washers you need before you do the job. Hopefully it will only be one.

There should be one crusher washer in the kit.

Would you like some links for the process of removal and replacement? The trailing arms on your 107 are the same as my W123...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 09-19-2014, 02:37 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbboy View Post
Need to replace the rear wheel bearings in my 380sl, and Pelican Parts lists INA as an OEM with top marks. But I can't find any reviews of INA wheel bearings anywhere, and I did see an INA bearing race marked Korea somewhere on the web, even though the company is German.

So, I was wondering if anyone here ever used these or knows anything about the company before I go ahead and buy them.

Thanks very much for any info.
Yes.
They are good bearings.

.
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  #10  
Old 09-19-2014, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbboy View Post
In researching what I needed to do this job, another question just cropped up; namely, which sizes and how many extra spacers/crush washers should I get in case I tighten the slotted nut too much. According to the EPC, there are 6 sizes that go from 2.6mm-3.4mm for the 380sl, and I have no idea what's in there now.

Since each one is $6 or more and their not returnable, I'd hate to have to get one of each just to be on the safe side .

You have an e-mail from me.


The critical factor is using a NEW crush spacer, and getting the correct PRE-LOAD on the bearing.

Here is the data you need to review.
1153530142 Rear wheel bearing preload CRUSH spacer


I have researched all of the bearing related parts, and there is only one crush spacer for this car MB# 1153530142.

Here are the EPC rear wheel part numbers , including the hub.

MB# 0009808202
TAPERED ROLLER BEARING

MB# 0009804202
TAPERED ROLLER BEARING

MB# 1153571262
THRUST WASHER

MB# 0059971646
SEAL RING, OUTSIDE

MB# 0079973547
SEAL RING, INSIDE

MB# 1153530142
SPACER BUSHING

MB# 1153570026
GROOVED NUT

MB# 1239903201
SCREW, AXLE SHAFT TO REAR AXLE SHAFT FLANGE M 8 X 85

MB# 1153570675
WASHER, AXLE SHAFT TO REAR AXLE SHAFT FLANGE

MB# 1263570053
SPACER TUBE, AXLE SHAFT TO REAR AXLE SHAFT FLANGE 67 MM

.
__________________
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
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  #11  
Old 09-19-2014, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
I've just had a look on Pelican and it seems that you can now only buy FAG or SKF!

1981 Mercedes-Benz 380SL Base Convertible - Axles, Bearings & Differential - Page 2
That's interesting because I still have an INA kit in my shopping cart. But I now I guess I'm not getting it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Would you like some links for the process of removal and replacement? The trailing arms on your 107 are the same as my W123...
No. I've already read D Morrison's extensive write-up several times and a number of variations. But thanks for offering. However, if I run into any problems, it's great to know that people here are able and willing to help. It's hard to imagine how DIYers managed to do this job and many others before these forums were created.
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  #12  
Old 09-19-2014, 06:51 AM
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I suspect that many old cars are being DIY'd to a ripe age that otherwise would have been scrapped thanks to this forum and others like it.

BTW I did rear wheel bearings on a W123 a while back. Give yourself plenty of time to get it done. The job is relatively simple, but it's time consuming.
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  #13  
Old 09-19-2014, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
You have an e-mail from me.


The critical factor is using a NEW crush spacer, and getting the correct PRE-LOAD on the bearing.

Here is the data you need to review.
1153530142 Rear wheel bearing preload CRUSH spacer


I have researched all of the bearing related parts, and there is only one crush spacer for this car MB# 1153530142.
Thanks very much for researching this for me, Mr. Hunter. You saved me from ordering the wrong spacer. As it turns out, I was looking at the different sized spacer/washers between the differential and the inner axle shaft part # 1153575452, etc.

Also, thanks for posting the job instructions. Having read them, I was wondering if you could tell me which sealing compound it's referring to when it says "Coat seat for outer radial sealing ring on wheel carrier with sealing compound," and again later on?
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2014, 09:51 AM
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Look out for recommendations that say you can just hammer stuff out. Whilst some say it has worked for them others have reported that hubs get damaged
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #15  
Old 09-19-2014, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Look out for recommendations that say you can just hammer stuff out. Whilst some say it has worked for them others have reported that hubs get damaged
As I've noticed that, I was wondering why people didn't just rent hub pullers and slide hammers from local chain stores to remove their hubs. I imagine that the hub pullers with center bolts would work alone by putting a plate or washer over the hub opening, so the bolt has something to push against.

In fact, looking a dmorrison's write up, I was wondering if it would also be possible to put 5, instead of 2, long bolts into the hub and tighten them down incrementally against the parking brake shoes to push the hub up? I'd try it, but I'm not sure if those shoes would stand the stress. What do you think?

As for knocking the races out with a brass punch, if I'm not mistaken that's standard procedure for the front races, and it worked for me. So, I don't see why the rear races would be any different?

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