If the M103 is anything like the M102 you'll find the front cover is attached to the pipe for the oil pump that sits in the bottom of the sump - on my M102 this pipe is also fitted to the first crankshaft bearing cap. Whilst I had read a lot about removing the cover on the M102 I found in practice you need to remove the sump as well - this wasn't mentioned by many (!) - I wonder if this is also the case for the (similar) M103?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I'm looking at this job myself. My plan of attack will be to connect the new chain to old and pull it through so it is automatically routed through the bottom gears.

From what I've read it is a brave DIYer that installs the master link without the crimper. If the chain let's go the pistons go crashing into the valves which totally destroys the engine.

I assume you got a new chain like this:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Connect-Images/0039978094-M48.jpg

Although I do see this same company sells a master link with a circlip that maybe negates the nee for the tool. I'd be interested if anybody has used that part without the tool with long term success:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Connect-Images/0009973298-M48.jpg

The chain I have is a completely connected chain, there is no break (Febi). And because one end of the chain has dropped, I dont think I can do the chain linking/pulling trick. Is there another chain in front of the timing chain that would prevent a completely connected chain from going in without cutting it ?

__________________
Saumil S. Patel