Heading to the junk yard today to pull some annular
axles off a late 80s W126.
Is the bolt head that goes into the differential a torx or a tripple square socket?
What size?

Thanks,
Jeff

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Jeff
Google these two MB part numbers and see if this is the socket you are looking for
115 589 02 07 00
915 589 02 07 00

or visit Samstag sales dot com -look under MB specialty tools. Good info and pics

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No, those aren't the tools.
This is a simple torx or tripple square bit.
This is for the bolts that hold an annular axle to the differential.
I just don't want to get in the JY and find I don't have the right bit.
Anyone else?

Thanks,
Jeff

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

I can't say for sure on a W126 but my W201 has 8mm hex (Allen head) bolts fitted at the moment. I think it came with tripple squares fitted though. If I were you I'd take several options with you because you may not find what you expect to find!

If you insist on taking just the "correct" tool and not many back up options you might be able to find out the correct size and type of bit from either the lemforder or febi online catalogues - might even be listed as what ever they are here in the Pelican listings...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Although the CV joint bolts have a 12-point socket, caution is required as to type. They may be either spline drive, which has a 60 degree tip angle, or triple-square (XZN), which has a 90 degree tip angle.
Mother Benz has used both in various applications.

Just got back from the JY.
A T55 Torx fit the best. Definitely not Triple square
All I had was a cheapie O'Reily torx bit which rounded out the
bolt head & socket. So I should look for a "spine drive" bit? What size 12M?
Should have used some kroil first, too

Still not sure if those axles will go on my diff so I may just pass on them.

Jeff

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Oh dear - well an alternative method could be to remove the axle at the wheel end and pull it away from the hub (probably have to remove the parking brake cable). Then remove the cover for the differential and pull out the C clip that holds the flange bit for the annular axle in place.

(You could then decide whether you want to remove the damaged bolt or not)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

highly doubt its a T55 and its a pretty much given thats the reason it stripped out the bolt head.

I have seen this issue on toyota head bolts, they are bi hex drive which look 90% the same as XZN - the XZN tool also fits - the problem comes around applying torque to them. An XZN driver in a bi hex fastener head will only contact the edges of the serrations which will round/strip/give up and then you would have another headache at hand.

I have successfully removed such bolts with the right driver bit, some cleaning with a wire brush and some valve grinding emery paste to give added friction.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Right. Another member said he used the torx bit.
Those old bolt heads are so dirty it's hard to see up in there even
after scraping it out.
I will probably pass on that car and keep looking. The boots were good, though, with only 120K on the odometer.

Probably 40$ out the door for the pair this weekend (50% off)
as opposed to 450.00 for some good rebooted ones.

I'm lucky and there are four yards in my area. So I will keep
looking after I find the right bit. If not, I'll go back and fight this one out.

Thanks for the input, guys.

Jeff

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

you can buy a tool that has reversed teeth serrations to grip the outside of the bolt head - you will need to hammer it on there and then use a tool to rotate it.

I have been in a similar situation in a BMW, in that car I used a knipex cobra pliers to grip the outside of the bolt and used the driving tool, applied torque to both items and the bolts were removed.

Out on the bench I saw that someone had already chewed up the bolts in the past.

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)