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#16
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Perfect. Thanks Mike
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#17
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While youre at it, good idea to change out rubber brake hoses. they rot from the inside, flush every two years to keep moisture out
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#18
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Quote:
The following trouble usually accompanies these threads 1) "Oh I didn't realise there's a front and a back part to the reservoir" 2) "Did you bench bleed the master cylinder" - In my opinion you need to ignore this advice. There seems to be some sort of "New World" fetish with bench bleeding - just use a power bleeder there's no point making a master cylinder air free and then disconnecting it to fit it to the car... 3) As mentioned above - now is the time to replace the flexible hoses 4) Now is the time to make sure the bleed screws are clean and "groove free" at the mating surfaces 5) Getting your partner to press down on the pedal - doing the "two man method" is often not a good partner bonding session and should more often than not be avoided! If you can't get a power bleeder get a vacuum bleeding system and suck the fluid through each caliper at the bleed screw. Often some PTFE tape on the threads stops you from sucking too much air past the threads and into the bleeding bottle - this helps to make it clear when the line is air free when using this method - otherwise you keep on thinking there's still air in the line but it is just leaking past the bleed screw threads...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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