My last Getrag 717.400 five speed. Has a few issues ...

I need to remove the broken speedo cable. Here's some pictures.

I do not want to take anything apart.

I was thinking of getting a wire brush and drill, and cleaning it out like crazy. Then, getting a bolt, washer, and nut and JB welding the bolt inside the broken speedo cable. Then, after it dries over night, I would tighten down on the nut which would force itself against the housing itself, with the force pulling the broken off speedo with it. Same theory as a hub puller.

Anyone have this issue or ever fixed it?

Second problem is that one of the dogears broke off. I am thinking I will need that for the muffler hanger. I think the only solution is grabing one at the yard and carefully JB welding it.

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You are trying to remove the ferrule that is crimped onto the speedo drive's outer sheath, correct? The flexible driven shaft is no longer present and the corrugated plastic covered outer sheath has been broken off, right?

If that's so you should have an opening down through the center where the driven flexible shaft would normally reside, I would start thinking if I could fabricate some sort of hooked rod that could be inserted into the hole, catch the inside edge and use some sort of slide hammer to try and work it outward. Before doing that I would remove the 10 mm bolt from its clamping position and gently tap a wedge of some sort between the two sides of the clamp with the hope of expanding it a tiny bit to break the corrosion loose. Douche it good with some penetrant KROIL or such for a couple days. In the interim some judicious tapping of the broken off part could help loosen things up enough as well.

I don't recall exactly what material the ferrule end is made of, aluminum or steel, might be able to tap some threads down into the center hole. Probably pull parts of the spiral steel sheath out first then some of the plastic outer covering but eventually you should get to the "meat" of the ferrule that could be tapped and pulled with a slide hammer tool.

As far as the broken off ear, you're talking about the aluminum part of the tranny case one? I had that happen years ago and we made that bracket out of a couple pieces of steel that you could remove two of the longer transmission case bolts along the bottom rear edge that hold the tranny tail piece in place and then place the bracket and replace the bolts. The bracket was maybe an 1/8" think so there was still plenty of bolt thread to keep it all together

Yup on both accounts.

Bolt is removed.

I am first trying my bolt, washer, and nut remover idea. I am hoping I cleaned it out good enough for the JB weld to hold. There are what appears to be groves inside that ferrule from what I can tell. Thanks for the info / ideas. I am thinking this is something which can be removed without taking the thing apart. We'll see.

As for the aluminum dogear, I was thinking of getting a replacement and JB welding it into place. I like the metal bracket idea. I would remove the part and weld it. The metal bracket did not even cross my mind.

I think the grooves you see might be the innermost steel spiral of the cable sheath left on the short section that was originally crimped by the ferrule. Good luck, sometimes you've just got to keep picking at it until it can come apart, with something like this.

The JB weld bolt deal worked in theory and I thought I had it. However, it pulled right out. I think its either a re-do of that or the slide hammer ... So far, not so easy.

Your right on course with this removal .

The JB Weld approach was proven to work in this documentary featuring the last known surviving Neanderthals: Video for weld on aluminum transmission case▶ 4:39
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbrdd1oR1L4

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I think the greasser is talking about one of the "ears" that protruded down from the tranny case to which the exhaust support is usually attached.
There are two of them they have a hole in their center, the exhaust bracket is attached with a rubber bushing on each side and a bolt through the hole in the middle. There is no way any kind of glue will work, it would be difficult to even weld that ear into place and have it last. When I had that problem the aerospace welding guy I consulted told me he thought the aluminum case to which the "ear" was part of the original casting would have to be separated and he hoped that the heat from any welding process would not deform the larger casting itself. That's when I figured a separate bracket was the way to go.

Correct BatteredBenz ... I tried for the 2nd time my JB weld puller to get that damm speedo end out. It now actually moved some, so I am hopeful. I just finished off the remainder of my JB quick, the mini tubes If it moves a little, I am hoping I can inch it out. I will try the full blown JB weld if my 3rd effort does not fully work, however, the end is now inched up to the gap where the bolt cinches down on the speedo cable, so I am guessing it move around 1/16th or more of an inch.

As for the missing dogear, I think your bracket is the only way to go ...

Some PITA persistence did pay off. Here's most of the broken speedo bits and pieces. I was surprised how much effort was needed to get this out.

However, the very end piece is down there still, there's nothing to grab, and I tried a little picking around. I think I can pick away and remove the stuff not in the middle and hopefully, I will have something to grab. I doubt it but it's worth the time versus starting to take this thing apart.

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Magnet?

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I just took a couple pictures looking down inside there on a 4 speed 716 tranny that I have, it uses virtually the same style drive cable stuff. I can't post these pictures but I'll email them and someone else can post them if they'd like.

Your pictures are hard to see being so small but it looks like there has occurred some damage to the part that the square hole resided in or is part of. There should be a square hole in the center of the black stuff in the middle. With the tranny engaged in one of it's gears the center black stuff should be able be observed rotating when the tranny input shaft is rotated.

Be sure to use FULL safety goggles, the tiny sharp shavings are dangerous to eyes.
I also suggest a dust mask.

This requires delicate work with a micro die grinder, using carbide bits to clean up the gnarled outer 2MM of the speedometer drive gear.

Or worst case attempt to carefully grind through the damaged cable stub, and clean up the square with jewelers files.
10pc Diamond File Set Files Needle Glass Tile Metal Watchmaker Jewelers Grinder | eBay

For me it is a:
Tedious, nerve wracking two hours (on average), and 95% odds of success.

Here is a good price on the tool and carbide bits you will need.
Dotco Air Pencil Grinder 60 000 RPM Carbide Tool Bits Die Making Machinist A | eBay

You will also need an In-Line Oiler, filled with marvel mystery oil to avoid burning out the bearings in this high speed tool.

Mini in Line Oiler Air Lubricator Tools 1 4" NPT Line Brass Compressor New | eBay

A bit of (new tool) practice on junk parts should give you the confidence to tackle this job.

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some pics of a partially disassembled 717.400. Sould not be too bad removing the rear cover from the gearbox and access both sides to get rid of broken bit of speedo.

This is from a gearbox that was missing some parts to warn, so keep an eye out for thrust washers, needle bearing cages, and tiny springs.

here is a picture of the outside of the back cover. white arrow points to reverse idler gear bolt. Remove this bolt plus exterior bolt pattern, and looks like shift arm, and looks like you will be able to tap off the cover.



inside of gearbox this is where that bolt goes to. supports one side of reverse gear shaft-



missing from this pic is shaft ive crudely drawn in that holds shift gate. this is attached to shift gate with a roll pin and will remain stationary, supported in outside cover with a bearing. This missing shaft has an index cut to mate up with the exterior shift gate lever. this is the question mark on reassembly. mine was already undone a bit, so im not sure how you reindex the shift gate lever with the shaft. Ill be back in a few hours and take close up pics of those two items for clarificaiton



inside of rear cover, looks like you will have to remove this inner cage and the roller bearing to access inside of speedo cable hole. I had a lot of loose parts shown outside of case lying around, so watch for thrust washers and bearings and make sure to mark their orientation and take pictures

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