03 SLK230 Major Electrical Problems - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TOMCLARK · #1 02-01-2016, 01:49 PM

Let me start by saying that some of the problems have been posted in other threads but mine is different. I am sorry for the long post but I think that it is important for you to have the background.

I have a 2003 SLK 230 with about 130k miles.

When I purchased it everything was fine. After about 3 moths I had a problem with the ESP/BAS light came on and went into limp mode. Long story short I scanned the car with a generic OBDII scanner and proceeded to replaced the LR wheel sensor, the conductor plate and transmission electrical plug also the transmission had 0 transmission fluid showing on the new stick I purchased, so I filled it with fluid (MB Rated).

I brought it to an independent MB certified shop. They removed the codes and everything was fine for an hour. Then the light came on I brought it back and they re scanned it and no codes came up so they turned the wheel back and forth and the lights went out.

Great for about 2 months then the check engine and ABS ESP/ BAS lights came on again. I scanned it with a generic code scanner and got a couple of codes that didn't make sense implausible readings. I took it back to the indi and had it re scanned. This time they said the battery was causing the problems and sold me a new battery. Everything worked as it should for about 6 months. Then everything started to happen.

The ABS ESP/ BAS lights came on again but not in limp mode lasted for a while then went out.
The Roof Went down but would not go back up so I had to put it up manually. then I tried to work the switch to get the rear windows up and got the quick flashing light ( Codes in the retractable roof system). I finally was able to get the windows to close.
The ABS ESP/ BAS lights came on again and are staying on
The latest thing is that the battery went dead, I disconnected the negative cable and charged it. I then put an ammeter on the negative side between the battery and cable and I get .3 to .4 flow. So I know something is not shutting down. I tried to connect it again using a separate battery so the car thinks that the battery is connected then took off the extra battery while the ampmeter is still connected. I then started to unplug all of the fuses, then unplug all of the relays and computer plugs, still have the draw. I purchased another scanner that would read MB specific codes (Icarsoft MBII scanner), went through all of the systems and cleared all of the codes. The car now runs great but the* ESP/ BAS light is on. THIS SCANNER DOES NOT DO THE ROOF and a couple of other systems. I sent the Icarsoft MBII scanner back for a refund so I can invest in a Star system.

My problem now is if I leave the battery connected it goes dead over night and if I unplug the negative I'm doing a hard boot on all of the computers and all of the ABS ESP/ BAS lights come on.

Even with the lights on the car runs great and on my basic OBD scanner there are no codes. I read on some forum that there is a MB Star system (from China) that the forum guys said worked great but I didn't link the page so it is in the Inter-Web black hole.

Now for my questions:

What should the amperage draw be with the key off and all of the systems shut down?
How can I find where the draw is coming from?
Has anyone used that knockoff star system and Is it worth the investment? It sells for around $ 400 dollars.
The dealer charges $100 every time he hooks it up.
AGAIN sorry for the long post. I would appreciate any input that you have.

Thanks in advance
TOMCLARK

97 SL320 · #2 02-01-2016, 05:01 PM

There is a SLK / Crossfire specific forum somewhere on the net, try posting there and here in parallel. Be sure to post results.

The Chinese systems are made by a bunch of companies so I don't have a recommendation. Don't use it on a computer that you are using for other things and never hook it to the internet, it will phone home and "brick". ( be sure to shut off the computers wi fi and also pull the wi fi card from the scanner. )

From other posts I read, a CAN module is staying awake drawing power. ( Controller Area Network ) these modules are throughout the car and control various functions over a 2 wire communications network rather than having a bunch of wires for each function.

dkveuro · #3 02-01-2016, 11:01 PM

You do NOT pull fuses to find a parasitic draw. You will wake up or keep awake the CAN/Bus if you do .
Each module communicates with all the others via a twisted pair of wires. Some modules have priority and others like the Komfort or seat modules take a secondary roll.

If you want to know more about the CAN/Bus.......https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus

You have to disconnect each module and retest. The CAN/Bus does not care which module is there or missing so removing each module in turn will eventually lead to the module keeping the bus awake. This can take considerable time.

90 seconds after shut down (Ignition off, door closed.) there will be between 28 to 35 mA draw. if more you have system awake.

Do NOT buy the Chinese scanner. Use your indi or the Star.

It seems you might have the dreaded damp in the cluster. If you close the door, does the cluster ( Mileage etc.) go out in a minute or two ? If no....you have everything staying awake....well yes, we know that.

To test this possibility try this....remove cluster, shut off vehicle and check next morning. Battery okay? Bad cluster....or if you good at this, hook up dvom to battery and remove cluster. Close door and lock car. After 90 seconds or less mA should drop to 30 mA or close.

There is a company called Beckmann who will test/repair the cluster.

Beckmann Technologies, Inc.

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dkveuro · #4 02-01-2016, 11:27 PM

You may need this company one day..........what am I saying ? You WILL need this company one day. Best there is.

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