I was thinking that too. What does an oil change have to do with the problem and what is a starter refresh???

New engine oil helps the crank to spin faster as does a better working starter motor.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Take out the two allen bolts from the cold start valve. Pull it out of hole so you can see other end. Crank engine and see if fuel comes out. if not check temp sensor and loosen the fitting on top of the cold start valve and see if fuel is there. if it is apply ground and voltage to plug on injector if fuel does not come out there is the problem.

When you cycle the key that is priming the fuel system so accumulator does not matter at that time. accumulator is mainly for warm restart when the engine is cold the system will squirt extra fuel through cold start valve which will give the system time to prime itself. when the engine is warm cold start valve is not activated and without the accumulator would need lots of cranking to prime system

The cold start injector is not energized unless the temperature is near freezing.

The accumulator DOES impact both cold and hot starting. An internally leaking acculumator will cause both hard cold and hot starting problems. Been there, done that, but it can be intermittent.

If you look at the photos in the thread I started about the accumulator failure analysis you will see that the inlet has a very small restrictor. If the accumulator has an internal leak and bleeds down all the way, proper fuel pressure will not be obtained until it fills, and it's leaking as if fills. The one second fuel pump pulse is not enough to pump 20 cc of fuel to fill the accumulator.

That's why it can take a lot of cranking time to build enough fuel pressure to start the engine.

In this case I highly recommend running the very simple accumulator internal leak test before any thing else it done.

Duke

Accumulator is not nessesary for cold start up it will not hold press for a week but car will still start. Its function is to keep press on fuel system until engine gets cold enough that system can be primed with cold start valve
20c is far from freezeing

If you dont want car to start while cranking with fuel system open unplug the crank shaft sensor from the ezl (ignition control unit)

Try reading my post again. I said the accumulator holds 20cc of fuel and said nothing about 20C temperature.

Duke

Check fuel accumulator under car at right rear, possibly leaking internally back into tank