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  #1  
Old 05-01-2016, 03:54 PM
mbzr4ever's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 595
Multiple electronic issues

For my 91 300e W124:

1) Previous owner took the strip fuse for the fan/blower out. When I put one in, the fan blows full blast on one speed, either off or on. No low, med, hi.

2) Light for the transmission dash is out. Cannot tell at night what gear you have.

3) Drivers side seat sometime goes crazy. Usually happens after I reconnect the battery, the seat will jump around, even though the seat adjustment button
is not touched.

4) Check engine light is on. The pulses indicate numbers 16 and 17.

16 - EGR switchover valve - should I just replace?

17 - I already changed the oxygen sensor about a year ago, as well as the OPV (fuse is good).


Are these issues all related? Where do I start?
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K
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  #2  
Old 05-06-2016, 07:43 PM
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Location: Palm Springs, CA
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#1 My guess would be the blower motor regulator is shot. It is in the engine firewall area and not easy to get at.
#2 You will have to pull the strip and replace the bulb. Not sure how to do it on your car but BE CAREFUL as it will probably break.
#3 probably has dirty contacts somewhere in the seat area. The car is 25 years old.
#4 There are charts that give you the code messages. I don't have them.
Track down Jim Forgiones website. He has instructions for building a simple code reader. Sounds like you need one. And maybe a subscription to AllData for your car.
Anziani
'97 CL600 55K
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2016, 12:09 AM
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AutoZone and some of the other chain after-market parts stores will read and clear the codes without charge when the check engine light comes on. You should go to see them.

The check engine light came on when the second of two glow plugs on my '98 e300td went bad. The light stayed after I installed new glow plugs. I went to the AutoZone store near me and they cleared the codes without charge. The light has not come on since then. The guy was gracious and didn't act like he was doing me a big favor.
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2016, 12:54 PM
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Location: Georgia Tech, Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESchwab View Post
AutoZone and some of the other chain after-market parts stores will read and clear the codes without charge when the check engine light comes on. You should go to see them.
I doubt they can do a pre-OBDII car. They can be cleared with the push button next to the LED (if there is one, not all of them had it) or with a Mercedes OBDI reader.
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1980 300SD 183K- Brother's
1983 300D manual 100K chassis- Dad's
1990 Lexus LS400 189k- Brother's
1991 190E 2.3-190D (87, 320K mile) conversion project- Mine
1993 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 207K-Mine
1993 190E 2.6 Sportline Limited Edition 91K-Mine
2003 Sprinter 2500 Passenger 205K-Dad's
1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 240K- Head gasket failure
2006 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 80K-Mom's
Parts cars:
1977 240D Auto-RIP
1979 300SD
1980 300SD
1983 240D-RIP
1993 190E 2.6-RIP
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2016, 09:29 PM
Stretch's Avatar
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Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
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The first thing I would do (now) is check and clean each of the earth points
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2016, 06:59 PM
mbzr4ever's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anziani View Post
#1 My guess would be the blower motor regulator is shot. It is in the engine firewall area and not easy to get at.
#2 You will have to pull the strip and replace the bulb. Not sure how to do it on your car but BE CAREFUL as it will probably break.
#3 probably has dirty contacts somewhere in the seat area. The car is 25 years old.
#4 There are charts that give you the code messages. I don't have them.
Track down Jim Forgiones website. He has instructions for building a simple code reader. Sounds like you need one. And maybe a subscription to AllData for your car.
Anziani
'97 CL600 55K
Can easily postpone the blower issue to a later time.

Transmission light: this is doable - if it is only a bulb replacement.

Seat: dirty contacts in the door area where the adjustment switch is or in under the seat?

Stretch: will double check ground points.
__________________
1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K
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  #7  
Old 09-22-2016, 05:34 PM
mbzr4ever's Avatar
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Update:
Replaced transmission light bulb with an LED one.
Cleaned EGR valve, replaced vacuum hose from idle control valve to intake hose.

Removed the original distributor cap and found yellow flakes everywhere.
Flakes were even in the boot part that connects to the distributor plugs.

Any clues as to what, why?
Attached Thumbnails
Multiple electronic issues-flakes2.jpg   Multiple electronic issues-cap2.jpg  
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 09-23-2016 at 03:49 PM.
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2016, 04:36 AM
Stretch's Avatar
Gettin' outa chokey
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
Rodents?

(What's the rotor look like?)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2016, 07:18 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 2,969
Time to replace the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and likely the ignition wires too. Apparently the engine, and the entire vehicle, has not been well maintained.
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Fred Hoelzle
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2016, 03:52 PM
mbzr4ever's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Rodents?

(What's the rotor look like?)
Rotor looked intact, just a little carbon on the tip.
Cleaned the contact points and rotor to see if any difference - negative.
__________________
1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2016, 03:14 AM
Stretch's Avatar
Gettin' outa chokey
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
Well (as mentioned above) replace the cap and rotor and measure the resistances of each of the leads.

If you've already cleaned the earth points - check for the error codes again (after a short drive).
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 10-05-2016, 01:52 AM
mbzr4ever's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 595
Update: Replaced the rotor and cap, runs better.
Determined the yellow flakes were from the sly-glyde that had dried since installation about 9 years ago.
__________________
1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K
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