I just replaced the switches in both our cars. Just do it and be done with it. You DON'T want it to fail where you cannot turn the switch to the position to remove it. Then you will wish you had just put in a new one!

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2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

Joel, there's no need to replace the barrel. I paid $80 for a new cylinder lock for our 1992 300CE at the local MB dealer. Contact Tom Hanson (800-252-6877 Ext. 306) at Caliber Motors in California for a price on a new cylinder lock for your car. I'm sure that it will be less than $90 including shipping.

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Fred Hoelzle

Thanks Fred, I'll try that route.

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joel

Prayers bring forth enlightenment.

joel
I called 3 US dealers and they were all the same at $92 for the tumbler. I don't know the CAN to US $ conversion rate, but it sounds like they're taking you for a ride, especially on the steel black surround that won't be damaged in the process.

The removalcan be frustrating to the point of giving up. Let your significant other or child try it. Offer to split the $ difference.

Bob

Bob, thanks for checking those out. At 35% exchange, there is still a differential of about 75 bucks. I will definitely mail order it south of the border.

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joel

Prayers bring forth enlightenment.

Joel, be sure to mention to Tom Hanson that you're a MBCA member so that he gives you the club discount!!!!!!!

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Fred Hoelzle

After reviewing all the postings I noticed no one mentioned that if you have the valet key in like new condition, it may be just the thing to entice the tumbler off of the lock position...

Just trying to help, thanks.

With 200km, the original key probably is worn too much and isn't engaging the tumbler pins.

Rather than the drastic drill, I'd go to Benz dealer (with owners card VIN# and your drivers license - they require ID) order a new ignition tumbler & keys that you'll get in about 3 days.

Have everyone you know do the ignition key wiggle with the new key for a few minutes. Young children often have more patience and luck. Of course, the reward you offer to the successful "key master" can make for an interesting event.

Bob

The ignition tumbler on the high-mileage 190e just started "acting up" .... getting grittier to turn etc. Then the other day while waiting for a new tumbler it wouldn't turn with inserting the key .....

I sprayed graphite lock lube into the tumbler, used the key to wiggle several times and it finally turned! I know this is not the final solution, but for those in the throws of an old lock issue I highly recommend trying this stuff. It comes in a small can that is blue and white and has a snorkle attached. Found typically at a hardware store.

It is a bit messy but it works.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

I just changed mine. Got stuck, had to tow vehicle. Key would not turn to do the easy disassembly. Wiggled for hours over several days.

Saw a post on here to use vibration with a jigsaw. Pressed the jigsaw handle against the key and used a wrench to turn key at same time, turned in 30 secs due to the vibration! Disassembly of tumbler was 5 mins

Thanks to the people here!

The cause of the problem on mine was that the zinc diecast part (front face) had broen behind the black trim cover. Pins appeared to have nothing to do with it.

I suspect this is why the replacement tumbler has a stamped steel cover instead of the diecast.
Tom

just want to thank you all for a good advise. JigSaw worked perfectly.

Having read about changing tumbler before it goes bad. I am about to change it. Q1: Tumbler is ingition lock cylinder or tumbler is part of the ingition lock cylinder? Q2: Do we have to purchase it from the dealer with the prove of ownership? ( Fastlane sells ingition lock cylinder about $80.)
Thanks a lot.

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89 300 CE

Hi,

If you want key that matches your doors, you need to get it at the dealer with vin number and show your registration as proof of ownership. Was like $85 at my dealer.

Fastlane will be a generic version with another key.

If its at all sticky ,do it before you get stuck. I got stuck and needed to tow it.

Jeff

I just completed repairing the same problem. Except that it was in a 1983 300TD wagon. Remember that the insturment panel has to be removed to see the top of the lock assembly to work on it.
It was a very surgical procedure when I didn't know exactly what was causing it. However, This is what I found out after removing the ignition part of the switch with a die grinder. (Bummer....I didn't have to do that!) I ground throught he housing to cut off the top of the screws holding it in. You can't remove the wire harness plug unless the key turns and I thought that the problem was in the ignition electrical switch.
When I forcefully turned the key to try to turn it on I noticed that a rectangular plate, on the lock housing, exactly on the opposite side from the tube that enters the steering column, started to move a bit. Something under that plate seemed to be jamming the mechanism. I took a dremel with a small burr to grind out one edge so that I could pry it up and out. It is about 1/8 of an inch thick so I had to grind deep. I hammered a screw driver in under it to pop it out with its spring under it. Then I saw that it was a broken part. It was the top part of the steering lock rod assembly cap. It is quite thin cast pot metal attached to the cap. After I removed it I reached down in the hole with a wire hook and pulled up on the lock rod assembly. The key then turned freely and I could remove the key and tumbler. Then I reached in through where the tumbler was and pulled out the cam assembly holder. I then went down through the rectangular plate hole and pulled up and out on the entire steering rod lock. I tossed the rod and the actual cam and all springs and other little pieces of junk in the trash, but saved the cam holder so that I could reassemble the assembly without the locking rod and cam. I sawed off the broken remnants from the rectanular plate cap that could cause interference again and replaced the plate by tapping it in. I then reassembled the cam holder only, with the tumbler and the ignition switch and wire harness plug. NOTE: The key must be on the #1 position for any assembly and disassembly. When in that position slide the end of a paper clip into the groove cutout on the key face plate and push a bit....then proceed to unscrew the black surrounding cover that hold the tumbler in. It will spin right off and then the tumber can be removed to get to the goodies.
Maybe I can't lock the steering anymore, but I have over $150 saved in my pocket and the problem will never come up again in that car. Now the key only turns the ignition switch now, and the steering wheel seems to turn much smoother without that rod near it.
If anyone needs more details, just register with this site and email me....I have allowed emails. Be glad to help with any other probs you have....I took my whole car apart already!!!!