Tick, tick fixed tnx to Donnie! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimF · #16 05-17-2002, 09:50 PM

It does appear that those tubes can fail at any time. Let's face it. A poorly manufactured end in the tube could fail immediately. So I don't know why MB would persists with this design. Another one of life's unanswered questions!

However practically speaking, it does appear that they last for awhile. In my case, it's somewhat indeterminate since the original parts were replaced. Org part number was xxx xxx 02 xx.

My car just turned 100k; I bought it with about 75K on it. So there's no real way of determining how long they will last. But rest assured that engine heat, oil pressure and time will get at least one of them!

JimF · #17 05-13-2003, 09:03 PM

Well, the tick-tick is back!!!

As I was pondering how to tell the 'world' that Auto-RX didn't do anything different than the other products, I discovered that the tick-tick was on the LEFT side of the engine, NOT the right (as it has been). So see what happened last year, check this link to my page:
http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione/MB_S500.html Select MENU #19 to see one those bad 'critters'!

Upon closer examination, it definitely was on the LEFT side, so off came the valve cover. Guess what? One of the infamous oil tubes was open. That, of course, was the cause of the ticking lifter!!!

So Auto-RX's fame is still intact and the inside of my engine is absolutely clean. Should have taken some pics but was at my tech's shop. The mileage is about 400, so will leave it in a few more hundred miles before changing.

Regards . . . . JimF

ke6dcj · #18 05-22-2003, 12:02 AM

I mentioned this to the local MB tech who also has a 500E, and he said that the 1992-1993 500E's are not susceptible since their tubes are made of metal.

All other models that used the 500E engine, and especially those after 1993, had plastic tubes, and were susceptible. He also said the dealer replaces these all the time on the M119 engine.

:-) neil
1988 360TE
1993 500E

JimF · #19 05-22-2003, 12:00 PM

My tech's girlfriend has a '92 SL500 and got a chance to look at the 'tubes' when he pulled the cover off. Nice metal tubes(!) with spring loaded pessure relief.

BTW, the Auto-RX is a great product for cleaning up any engein especially mine with 100k+ miles of engine sludge.

Amazing stuff: it's made of all natural products (water soluble) and it slowly cleans the engine.

After removing the left side valve cover last week, the engine looks like it's new! No kidding.

Check out the site: http://www.auto-rx.com/

lc47@comcast.ne · #20 06-12-2005, 09:47 AM

Exactly what my 98 SL500 just started doing (see earlier "ticking" post). Anyone have an idea what a MB dealer will charge to remedy, and anything to watch out for. Should all be replaced, or just the "broken" piece.

Anyone have a good recommendation for a independant shop to perform in the North Dallas/Plano area?

Thank you.

Larry

JimF · #21 06-12-2005, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lc47@comcast.ne

Exactly what my 98 SL500 just started doing (see earlier "ticking" post). Anyone have an idea what a MB dealer will charge to remedy, and anything to watch out for. Should all be replaced, or just the "broken" piece.

Anyone have a good recommendation for a independant shop to perform in the North Dallas/Plano area?

Check out Menu#19 on my page and DIY! It's not that hard and actually kind of a fun job. You needent replace all but it's probably the best thing to do, but if you just replace the 'bad' one, it's a quick job.

I'm sure the dealer will replace all oil tubes on both sides. Guessimate . . 4 hours plus 16 oil tubes plus chain guide plus valve cover gasket kit = $750???

lc47@comcast.ne · #22 06-12-2005, 07:17 PM

Thanks for the information, excellent info and great tips on your website. Now time to ponder if a MB newbie should do anything other than drive and enjoy, many thanks.

Larry

jsap · #23 11-09-2006, 05:35 PM

I've been having ticking that's been increasing over the past two years, from a single tick tick tick to multiple ticks that change with the engine speed, so I just examined all of my oil tubes for broken plugs. But they're all intact!

So, now I'm out of luck on finding the solution to my problem.

Others have said that a worn motor mount could be the problem, but the mounts look fine on visual inspection.

But, I do have a couple of leads.

1) when I pushed the oil tubes, they actually pushed in under the cam braces by about 1/8". So, could the tubes all be clogged, so the oil pumps sucks and pushed them, causing the tubes to tick back and forth? Or, could the oil tube O-rings be bad, and need replacing (there's 32 of them, 2 for each tube)

2) when I got this car a couple of years ago, I switched to Mobile 1 Synthetic 0W-40. And during those two years, the ticking got worse gradually. I'm thinking about switching to Dino oil, or should I go with 10W-50 Synthetic, or half Dino and half Synthetic?

JimF · #24 11-09-2006, 07:13 PM

A bad lifter is a rare commodity in a M119 engine . . . it's possible, just not highly probable.

If you read MENU#19, you will see how I solved my problem in two steps;
use of an 'engine-flush' and then use of Auto-RX for 2000 miles.

If you have ever used an additive such as Slick 50, Prolong, etc., then you probably had the same problem as I did; partially plugged oil passages and probably a partially plugged lifter.

All I can say, it has worked for me.

jsap · #25 11-09-2006, 07:30 PM

I've been reading your page about this problem for a long time now, but there's two things that keeps me from trying the cleaner:

One is that I don't drive my car very much anymore, so it would take me four months to drive 1000 miles.

Another is that I thought Mobile 1 would act as a good cleaner itself.... But if I'm wrong, I can try the cleaner method....

Also, I've never used Slick 50 or other engine additives, and the ticking got worse gradually after using Synthetic....

gmercoleza · #26 11-09-2006, 07:43 PM

I have light ticking which appears to be coming from the valve train in my 85 380SE - M116 if I'm not mistaken. Nothing major, but I am very in tune to the smallest noise in all my vehicles and this one kind of detracts from an otherwise glass-smooth running engine. Is the M116 prone to this as well?

ProV1 · #27 11-12-2006, 02:35 PM

i've noticed that whenever i put in fresh engine oil, the ticking would go away for 4-5 days, and then the ticking would slowly come back.. ?

ProV1 · #28 11-12-2006, 10:15 PM

the ticking is back again, and i'm 99% sure the ticking is from the driver's side valve area, not passenger. which is strange b/c i've read that the rear passenger oil guides are the first ones to go.

but i did not find any oil pooling below the spark plug actuators, unlike what Greg Baxter found on his S500 in his DIY guide.

as I'm getting more familiar w/ my car and doing more work on it now, I think i can tackle replacing all the oil guides myself. However I'm not sure how the heck I'm going to remove the driver's side valve cover with all the tubing and wires running over it. ??

JimF · #29 11-12-2006, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ProV1

the ticking is back again, and i'm 99% sure the ticking is from the driver's side valve area, not passenger. which is strange b/c I've read that the rear passenger oil guides are the first ones to go.
but i did not find any oil pooling below the spark plug actuators, unlike what Greg Baxter found on his S500 in his DIY guide.

as I'm getting more familiar w/ my car and doing more work on it now, I think i can tackle replacing all the oil guides myself. However I'm sure sure how the heck I'm going to remove the driver's side valve cover with all the tubing and wires running over it. ??

The "rear passenger oil guides" . . . not sure what you mean! If it's the "passenger" side as opposed to the "drivers" side, then that's also not based in fact.

The 'truth' is that ANY of the oil tubes can fail at any time; you will appreciate this more when you get the valve cover off and remove the bad(s) one(s). The end caps are just pressed into the opening. Menu#19 on my page shows clearly how the end just "pops-out" as does post#1.

As far as removing the driver's side valve cover, you can firmly but gently move the hard-lines back abit and the cover will come off nicely. It is MUCH tighter than the other side but it's doable.

Make sure you replace the gasket material; recommend you get a valve cover 'kit' which includes the spark plugs, etc.

One other important point: In Menu#19 at the bottom of the page, the methodolgy may be worth trying BEFORE you remove the valve covers. It still could be a partially plugged lifter that a little 'extreme' cleaning may just finally remove.

ProV1 · #30 11-12-2006, 11:00 PM

thanks Jim.

Is there a COMPLETE list of all the parts I need for the oil guide replacement? (for 97 E420) BTW, if I'm going to take the valve cover off I might as well replace all 16 oil guides.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode