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  #31  
Old 11-12-2006, 11:14 PM
JimF's Avatar
'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
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I'm sure somebody knows all of the needed parts, however I do not.

Let me say this: I did NOT replace all of the oil tubes, only the two (2) that were bad and a few of the ones that could be changed easily. The two broken tubes were, fortunately, easy to change following the methodology outlined in Menu#19.

Of course, I endured the 'heat' of my tech, Pat of Exclusive Motors (middle of the home page) but, you know what?? That was over 4+ years ago and not one has failed since.

Now, I'm not saying you do the same thing but it's something to think about??
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Last edited by JimF; 11-12-2006 at 11:25 PM.
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  #32  
Old 11-13-2006, 07:43 PM
Larry Delor's Avatar
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This might be helpful

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M119OilGuides
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  #33  
Old 11-15-2006, 10:05 AM
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Something doesn't make sense. If the oil guides break and the lifters are not getting enough oil, then why is the ticking noise still intermittent? Wouldn't it tick continuously, not once a while?
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  #34  
Old 11-15-2006, 11:09 AM
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'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
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I read your post on BITOG and you said, " . . scaring all the kids in the neighborhood and people can hear it a block away"! If that's accurate, it's time to get those valve covers off . . . asap!

The ticking can be three (3) things: a plugged oil tube, a failed oil tube or a failed/plugged lifter.

If the oil tube is just paritally plugged or the tube is blown, then running the car in "3" gear as I mentioned helps to temporarily "pump" up the lifter so it works normally for a while. If the lifter is actually 'bad', then it will still temporarily respond to the high revs, but will make a lot of noise.

For both of the above, the 'trick' is the higher oil pressure when the car is run at freeway speeds. This tends to fix the the problem at least temporarily; running it in "stop-and-go" traffic, will bring the 'tick' back b/c of lower oil pressure.
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Last edited by JimF; 11-15-2006 at 04:33 PM.
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  #35  
Old 11-15-2006, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimF View Post

3) Will probably need the chain tensioner clamp. If it is as brittle as mine was, it will break when trying to remove it.

That should do it.
Jim, I was just wondering: I can't tell from your picture where the chain tensioner clamp is. Is there a part number for that?
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  #36  
Old 11-15-2006, 02:14 PM
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JimF,

Thanks for the info. On your website, you mention that the ticking came back even after replacing the oil guides, but autoRX finally cured the ticking noise once and for all? Did the ticking go away during the cleaning phase, or the rinsing phase?
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  #37  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsap View Post
Jim, I was just wondering: I can't tell from your picture where the chain tensioner clamp is. Is there a part number for that?
Sure there is . . . but don't happen to know it. When you get near it, you can read the part number on it.
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  #38  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProV1 View Post
JimF,

Thanks for the info. On your website, you mention that the ticking came back even after replacing the oil guides, but autoRX finally cured the ticking noise once and for all? Did the ticking go away during the cleaning phase, or the rinsing phase?
Did you really read the four (4) paragraphs at the bottom of MENU#19 in BLUE??

To summarize; I used a 'engine flush' as stated and then later used ARX to clean/remove any sludge/teflon, etc.

I did use products like Slick 50, Prolong, etc thinking that it would lower friction; well it's all BS and it left some partially plugged oil passages/lifters as its byproducts.

When the ARX was started the tick-tick was intermittant. It could have been, as many say, a byproduct of loosening/removing sludge. But as I remember, the car was 99% tick free during the cleaning phase of ARX.

Now in the maintenence phase, I've not heard a lifter tick in apx 3 years.
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Last edited by JimF; 11-18-2006 at 01:05 AM.
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  #39  
Old 11-17-2006, 06:55 PM
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Sorry for hi-jacking the thread for a similar issue. My M113 has a slight mechanical "noise" at the left forward part of the engine block. After having this for a month I got a pretty loud tick-tick at startup, almost as when oil pressure is low for a couple of seconds, but this remained for a good minute or two. Then disappeared and didn´t come back on repeated startups until the engine has been stopped overnight.

So I made an oil and filter change, Mobil 1 0-40 as usual. After this I can still hear the tick-tick but much less although for the same good minute.

The slight mechanical noise is the same as before oil change.

What can cause this, it sounds like a single valve tick, but I am not sure. Can anything related to the cam chain and tensioner make a tick and also this lower noise?

Engine runs smooth and no extra exhaust smoke from what I can see.
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  #40  
Old 01-01-2010, 03:19 PM
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94' E500 M119 Engine - Ticking when warm but not cold

My 94' E500 has 108,000 miles, with ticking that increases in frequency with engine revs. Ticking is only when engine is full operating temperature. No ticking at all when cold.

Using a stethoscope, I find the sound is most pronounced just behind oil filler cover forward end of right cylinder bank. I've had all oil tubes (rubber) on right side replaced, and this produced no change. Did not change left side, since ticking is on the right.

Oil pressure at idle is consistent 2 bar, without drop or fluctuation, and max otherwise. I've just about 100 miles ago switched from Mobile 1 Zero-40 (used by prior owner and dealer) to Castrol GTX 20-50 (mineral).

Some mechanics have indicated tensioner on timing chain could be going, however, the noise does not appear to be in that area. One mechanic theorized that tensioner has a hydraulic ram that could work better when engine is cold and oil is more thick, but again noise is not in that area. This particular independent throws his hands up, then and suggests replacing all tappets, though he reported they appeared OK when he pressed on them during oil tube replacement. One mechanic recommended using Prolong, however, that sounds like it will create more problems than it will solve.

Any suggestions appreciated.
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  #41  
Old 01-01-2010, 03:48 PM
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'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charnett View Post
Oil pressure at idle is consistent 2 bar, without drop or fluctuation, and max otherwise. I've just about 100 miles ago switched from Mobile 1 Zero-40 (used by prior owner and dealer) to Castrol GTX 20-50 (mineral).

Any suggestions appreciated.
About 1 yr or so ago, I switched from 20W-50 dino to synth oil and the engine became very quiet plus the engine temp is lower. Yes, it was very visible on the engine temp gauge.

Your symptoms are certainly different from mine and others w/ a bad oil tube (or two), so . . . as a WAG . . . I would go back to synth oil . . . and see what happens.
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  #42  
Old 01-01-2010, 04:15 PM
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Thanks

Jim, thanks. I may go back to synthetic later, but for now do not feel the mineral/dino has anything to do with the noise, which was present all along with Mobile 1 in the engine during the first 1000 miles of my ownership, including before and after the oil tube replacement.

I'm presently running the engine only briefly on 10 mile runs trying to figure out the problem, and hope this is not endangering it.
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  #43  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:17 PM
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What happens to the ends of the blown out tubes? Would they just get harmlessly chewed up by the valve train (should they get caught in it)?
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  #44  
Old 01-01-2010, 11:27 PM
mak mak is offline
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oil pipes 103?

Like to know if the 103 engine have a similar oil pipe problem too? Any TSB
mak
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  #45  
Old 01-02-2010, 12:14 AM
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No, the M103 has no such tubes. I believe there's a machined oil gallery the length of the head with a metal plug in the end. If you send a 103 head to the machine shop for a rebuild, a good shop will take the plug out before cleaning and seal it back up again.
There's a metal (maybe plastic on later models?) oiler tube that sits over the valvetrain and drips oil onto the rockers but that's a somewhat different purpose item
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