Anyone have any experience with replacing the trunk seal on a W124? I guess I'm specifically looking for brand experiences - the URO seal is less then $30, and the OE MB seal is about $120! I know URO parts are infamous for sucking, but I don't want to be a sucker who pays for OE parts every time, as there are probably a few cases where it's worth saving a few bucks on an aftermarket part (and many times where it's not, of course).

Secondly, has anyone done this before? I'm trying to figure out how a circular seal gets past the trunk lid hinges - do they have to be unattached somehow?

If you try the seal, buy it from a site that will let you return it if it doesn't work. Pelican should do that but you can always contact them about it.

As for getting the seal on, if it's anything like the W201, you can squeeze it past the corners but if you are afraid of damaging it, you can remove the trunk lid but I'd mark the bolts so the trunk lid lines up properly when you reattach it. You'll probably also want to buy some 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, or 08001 Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive. I believe the original color is yellow.

And you should check wholesale OEM parts websites, it may be a decent chunk cheaper to buy the seal from one of those places.

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

Can't remember which member, but I recently read that Uro Parts weatherstrips are garbage. The said that they don't fit correctly and kept falling off. This was maybe a few weeks ago. I should probably replace mine, but not much rain where I'm at, but I'm wondering if it would help to insulate the cabin from hearing the wind noise while driving.

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1990 190E 3.0L

have you lubed your seal?But don't buy Uro,i had to replace some parts that only lasted a year.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Bimmer-Bob, recommend using a genuine MB seal which you can source from a wholesaler for MB parts ... like MB of Cincinnati or MB of Anaheim. The seal has a large circumference and when loose will easily fit over the trunk lid. As you will notice on the original trunk seal, the seal joint is centered on the trunk lid latch.

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Fred Hoelzle

Did not lube the seal, but it is cracked in one place (right where the leak is). I had thought about trying to seal the crack with some weatherstrip adhesive, but even if that works (I have no idea if it would), I'd only be buying time, as I'm sure the gasket will fail in other spots soon enough.

Thanks everyone else for the suggestions. I will bite the bullet and buy the OE seal, even though it seems overpriced (just bought an expensive OE sunroof seal, too). Besides lasting longer, from what I've read, the OE seals fit better and are just easier to install.

Ordered the correct OE seal, currently inbound. What do you mean by the "seal joint?" The pictures make the seal look like it is a complete circle. Is this not the case? I'm wondering how to get the seal around the trunk lid hinges otherwise.

Bimmer-Bob, instead of "seal joint" maybe you would call it a "seam" ... it's where the two ends of the seal material are glued together. As mentioned previously, the loose seal (in a large ellipse shape) will easily fit over the trunk lid.

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Fred Hoelzle

If you buy it in Uro, you will be buying it from MB in short order.

I tried this with Meyle on the SD's trunk seal years ago, it fit like crap. Hell, look for a good used seal.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

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Oh, duh! I get it now, it fits around the entire lid. For some reason my reading comprehension is suffering lately. Thanks.