Hi guys,

I am currently in the midst of removing the timing cover to do the timing chain guides. My question is: do you actually remove the vibration damper before you pull the hub? Or do you take them off together. FSM says to remove pulley and damper, but my damper seems very stuck and I dont want to damage it by wacking with a hammer or something else, as its in good condition (I think). Any advice would be appreciated!

-Chris

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Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green
2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue
1999 Ford Ranger Green

Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17
1985 Silverton 34C

I think its the large bolt in the centre .You will need a long bar and a good socket .I will check it out for you .

Once you have the big bolt removed (and ideally you've been using a flywheel lock - 'cos you'll need that to apply the monster torque needed to refit the big bolt) you then need to use a (harmonic) balancer puller tool.

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I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Storm look on youtube for - Mercedes m103 Vibration Damper Removal for the video

Thanks- yea I've got a 30" breaker (+pipe) and the 27mm socket, I'm just waiting on the flywheel lock tool, seems like its stuck somewhere in the magic kingsom of usps.

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Streetside: 1987 Mercedes 300E Petrol Blue/Green
2014 Ford Mustang Grabber Blue
1999 Ford Ranger Green

Dockside: 1968 Eltro 17
1985 Silverton 34C

Get the breaker bar on the chassis near the alternator, then flick the starter for .5sec. It'll break the socket for you. Just make sure you have the breaker bar the correct place the way the engine rotates so it doesnt use it as a hammer on your engine

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
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2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Agreed.

The M103 one is pretty inexpensive (I think I paid about $40) compared to the OM617 version, well worth the cost. Even if you use it once, you can always sell it back off.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
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While i have not worked on the M103, every other engine I've dealt with that has a rubber ring vibration damper will have a press fit to the crank nose. Use a puller that uses bolts for attachment and not a 2 or 3 jaw puller, using this type of puller will cause the rubber to separate.