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#1
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Benz storage recommendations
Hey folks,
I'm heading overseas for a few months shortly, so my W123 wagon is heading into storage for the duration. It's inside, in a secure parking lot and I've purchased a fabric (breathable) car cover. So far, I've ensured that the interior is completely dry, and cleaned the car. I was thinking of: - Adding a little extra air to the tyres and/or leaving it on axel stands - Leaving the windows slightly open to allow air flow (will a fabric car cover make any particular difference to this?) - Change the oil? - Top up the gas tank - Disconnect the battery Any other thoughts or suggestions that might be useful? I want to come back to a Benz that isn't going to need too much love to drive again! Thanks
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#2
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BenA105, your list of items is a good one. Suggest keeping all the windows fully closed and connecting a trickle charger to the battery.
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Fred Hoelzle |
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#3
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Some storage places won't want you having a hooked up charger for possible fire reasons - depends whether they are used to having caravaners around ('cos they seem to have stuff charging all the time!).
I wouldn't change the oil and then store it - on the whole the other way round is a better way of doing it. If you let fluids sit and then drain them you can get out a lot of solids (especially differentials). Leaving windows open probably isn't going to be necessary or in some cases a good thing. I'd close the fresh air vents too as mould might be a problem. I'd get some of those absorbent crystal damp sucking things to get as much dampness out of the car as possible.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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#4
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Couple of months is not really a long time. I agree with stretch, the product is called damp rid? Disconnect the battery when parked. It will be fine when you get back. Definitely fill up the tank and add whatever fuel stabilization liquid your car needs.
My parents store their 93 300e this way in Greece for a year or more.
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Eugene 10 E63 AMG 93 300te 4matic 07 BMW X3 14 Ford F-150 Fx2 |
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#5
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My SL sits untouched for 3-4 months at a time. I don't do anything special to it at all. Not even disconnecting the battery. When it's time to go for a ride, I turn the key, let it idle for 5 mins or so, then drive away. If you were storing it for a year or more, I'd look into more specialized methods of preserving the car, but if it's only a couple to a few months, the car isn't really going to suffer.
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Current stable: 1995 E320 157K (Nancy) 1983 500SL 125K (SLoL) Gone but not forgotten: 1986 300SDL (RIP) 1991 350SD 1991 560SEL 1990 560SEL 1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!) Gone and wanting to forget: 1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz] |
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#6
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I'm away until November time most likely (off volunteering in the Middle East - shall be hunting for some parts whilst I'm there!). It's a fair while, so I figure I should take some precautions to not come back to (even more of a) money pit
![]() I've heard conflicting things about leaving the windows slightly open. I was told having some easier air flow is a good thing, but also closing is better from other sources. Not sure what to do now! The interior is now completely dry (took a couple of weeks to get it to that point - that sound deadening stuff takes an age to dry out!), so I'd hope mould isn't an issue now. I'm going to take the car through the car wash tomorrow as it's supposed to be dry and the roads are dry too, then it'll be parking-up time I think. Edit: That Damprid stuff sounds interesting: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-64-oz-Fragrance-Free-High-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308 |
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#7
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BenA105, please explain what sound-deadening material takes an age to dry out. Do you have water leaking into the interior of your vehicle?
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Fred Hoelzle |
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#8
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The soft, fluffy, insulation material that goes under the carpet that crosses over the transmission tunnel running down the interior of the car. The part between the back seats was soaked as I had an interior leak (which I've since fixed), but it's so thick it and completely saturated with water that it took a couple of weeks to fully dry. But it is bone dry now so that's ok!
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#9
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The biggest storage risk is RODENT DAMAGE!
I've been storing my '88 190E 2.6 for 5-7 months per year for the last 15 years, and have never had any problems. I have "mouse bars" in the corners of the single car garage and place a trap behind each wheel, which have nailed a couple of mice over that time period. Since I'm down to about 500 miles per year while the car is in service I'm changing the oil every two years, but if your oil has more than 1000 miles change it before storage, and then it's good to go the full distance when you bring the car back into service. Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel. I have never used any kind of "stabilizer". Fill the tires to the maximum cold inflation pressure placarded on the sidewall or at least 35 psi and expect about one psi per month loss. I always wash and detail just before storage. Since I use the same battery in the other car while the 190 is in storage, battery maintenance is not an issue. If you leave the battery in the car disconnect at least one cable. Before attempting to start fully charge the battery even if you have to remove it to gain access to a 115V outlet for the charger. The windows are closed and I push the "O" button on the Tempmatic which closes the system to air. When I open the doors to retrieve it from storage I can detect "new car smell" from the Tex. lt has a double car cover, and I also place a large plastic sheet over the cover just to keep dust off. As long as the storage environment never has condensing humidity, it's okay to use plastic. Short term storage - say no more than a year - is not a big deal and just requires a few simple preparation items, but most guys don't worry about rodents and sometimes pay a price. They love to chew on wiring harnesses which are very expensive to replace. The Web is full or horror stories. Duke |
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#10
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I've been to many many bars across the world but I have never ever seen a mouse bar!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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#11
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They're little green square shaped "bars" that are basically poison... bought them at Home Depot years ago, but haven't seen them lately. They're probably now illegal.
Duke |
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#12
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I park my 240D for the winter each year and I just fill up the tank, add a bit of Diesel stabilizer and disconnect the battery when I park it. No issues when starting in the spring.
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#13
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Duke2.6, Home Depot still sells Tomcat Mouse Killer bars. Rodents can trash a vehicle's wiring and nest inside the exhaust system. It's a great idea to prevent that type damage.
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Fred Hoelzle |
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#14
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The mice are very aggressive where I live. Poisoning them doesn't keep them out of the car, it just ensures that they live long enough to get into the car before dying and leaving stinky remains. Also, the poison doesn't act quickly so if you don't keep replenishing it the mice develop a tolerance. I now use the Car Jacket (carbag.com) when I store my cars because nothing else will keep the mice out. It completely encapsulates the car so you don't have to worry about anything getting in.
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#15
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Quote:
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