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Old 06-09-2002, 10:42 PM
Karl Hare
Posts: n/a
Replacing rear shocks 95 E320 Wagon

I am replacing rear self leveling shocks on my 95 E320 Wagon. I see line going into shocks. Can I take off and reattach to new shocks, or does line need to be bled?

Also is it advisable to replace the nitrogen cells (accumilators) with new shocks.

Any advice on replacing these shocks would be apprieciated. I have seached many threads on site without much luck on detail of replacing shocks

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Old 06-10-2002, 08:08 AM
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
Posts: 12,153
Why are you replacing the rear shocks?? They should last the LIFE of the car unless they leak.
They rarely leak if the accumulators are replaced every 100K miles or when the rear of the car gets STIFF.

The shock absorber action takes place in the accumulators.
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Old 06-10-2002, 09:31 AM
Michael's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 2,699
I have 180k mi. on my TE, and the shocks are original. I'm just now about to change the cells for the 1st time
"If everything seems under control, you're simply not going fast enough" --Mario Andretti

1995 E500 street car
1986 Porsche 944 Turbo S track car
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Old 06-10-2002, 08:52 PM
Karl Hare
Posts: n/a
Thanks guys,

Ya my left rear shock is leaking, so I figured I would replace both rear shocks. The car bounces about 7-8 times with each bump (150000+ miles) . Any advice on tech side?


Karl Hare
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Old 06-11-2002, 02:38 AM
A. Rosich's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: San Jose, Costa Rica
Posts: 883
I agree with M.B.Doc, unless the shocks are leaking, leave them alone. Try changing the accumulators.

Unlike regular spring shocks, self-levelling hydraulic oil shocks do not need to be changed in pairs. If one is leaking, only the offending schock needs to be changed.

About a DIY job, be careful, the system is set at an incredible high pressure and it does require a good tech to know how to bleed it.
Do a search on the subject to gather more info.

A. Rosich
S320, 1998
E320T, 1995
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