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  #1  
Old 06-24-2002, 09:42 PM
brookspw's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 551
Arrow EUROS for a 201 / brand, vacuum, harness, etc.

I have finally made the decision to get new euro lights for my 1991 190. As I mentioned before, the OEM headlight doors/surrounds are the only thing that gives away its age.

See the car at: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/brookspw/benz_side.jpg

Anyway -- I need help on these issues:

Vacuum -- does this matter? Just don't hook it up, right?

Harness -- how do I make the change from the current pin socket to the one required by the euros? I do NOT want to rewire, install relays, etc., unless I MUST.

Bulbs -- which bulbs can I use WITHOUT doing the above? Which ones would I need to rewire for?

Brand -- I have found some TYC brand for a good price. Are these ok? I read that they are actually an OEM brand, so I suppose they'd be ok.

Installation tips?

Does anyone have before and after pics of a 190, especially a black one?

Thanks for the help,

brookspw
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
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1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #2  
Old 06-24-2002, 09:52 PM
2phast's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2001
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I did all of the above on my 190E. Visit www.2phast.com for the complete details, under the green 190E.

The vacume adjustment is cool, but don't spend more than say $20 on it, as it does not adjust the lights that much.

I ran 80/80 watt piaa superwhites before I went to HID, the Euro headlight assemblies have a heavier guage wire, so they can handle the extra current draw, no melted wires or sockets.

You don't need any relays, but you will have to dissemble your existing pin sockets and re-install the pins in your new euro sockets, so I hope your euro headlights came with the sockets and extra pins. You only need extra pins if your going to hook up the city lights (I would)

Anyway, all the info you need is on my website.
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  #3  
Old 06-24-2002, 10:10 PM
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Location: Nashville, TN
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Thanks for the reply, I'll check out the website. You reminded me that I meant to ask what "city lights" are.

brookspw
__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #4  
Old 06-24-2002, 10:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 827
Quote:
Originally posted by brookspw
Thanks for the reply, I'll check out the website. You reminded me that I meant to ask what "city lights" are.

brookspw
City lights are low powered bulbs positioned inside the main headlight area. These come on with the marker lights and serve as an alternative to haveing full headlights on when not needed. they have a useful secondary advantage of being a backup should you lose one of your main headlights. This way the blown light is still partially illuminated and you don't look like a motorcycle in the dark.
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'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
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  #5  
Old 06-25-2002, 12:20 AM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: ajax, ontario, canada
Posts: 773
Re: EUROS for a 201 / brand, vacuum, harness, etc.

Quote:
Originally posted by brookspw
Harness -- how do I make the change from the current pin socket to the one required by the euros? I do NOT want to rewire, install relays, etc., unless I MUST.
In my case, I did not disassemble the old connectors.

What I did was to assemble together 4 wires into the female Euro connector (i.e., the Euro connector with the female wire pins), and on the other end of these wires, soldered on male pins. I followed the wire color-coding when I made this mini-wiring-harness.

I then connected these male pins to their corresponding female pins on the old female connector, then taped it up for insulation and protection. Then of course the female Euro connector goes into the lamp cluster.

I did this in case I needed to quickly switch back to my original stock lamps (for whatever reason).
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