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  #1  
Old 07-03-2002, 01:52 PM
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HELP! Code 30 on 400E , ASR malfunction

Can someone please tell me what this means. I had an independant shop with a code reader pull my codes for me.

Code 30 No can communiation - EA\CC\ISC (or something like that)

What happens is my car, whenever I go to pass someone or really give it alot of gas, It will throw the ASR malf. light on and send it into limp home mode. And it does this so often, its getting ridiculous, not to mention dangerous when your passing someone. I even had him clear the code out, went a drove it to trip the light again, and came back, and sure enough code 30 reappeared.

Can someone please advise what my options are. Where do I start looking now?

THANKS to all that respond.
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Old 07-03-2002, 08:03 PM
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forgot to add

I forgot to add that before it goes into limp home mode, the car severely hesitates, so bad its like ur flicking the ignition switch on and off many times. And I also noted that the car still hesitates and goes into limp home mode even when in the ASR diagnostic mode (ABS AND ASR lights on). Hope this can help narrow it down.
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  #3  
Old 07-03-2002, 08:18 PM
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WHERE DID HE GET THE CODE FROM & IS IT A MB CODE? DID THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON?
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2002, 12:36 AM
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ASR code, limp in mode cause

lots of things CAN cause the problem. The message is saying 'you asked for the throttle to open, but I could not do it because when I tried, the proper signals, which must travel over the Car Area Network (CAN) did not result so I am uncertain what has gone wrong so I am not opening the throttle and am shutting down to a safe limp -home mode.'

Most probable is a defective electronic throttle actuator (or Electronic Accelerator Control "EAC") and it's integral wiring harness. Usually the insulation on individual wires in the EAC harness crumble to dust causing intermittent shorts. I believe these are a little under $1000 for your car. (For the 600's, there are 2 of them, and they cost some $2400 EACH!!)

If your are really unlucky, it can be the CAN wiring, which is in the main wiring harness, which costs $4,000 + installed.

When you push on the accelerator, you are moving a 'wiper arm' on a variable resistor in the EAC, which changes the signal to the engine control computer via the (defective) wiring harness through the Car Area Network (CAN). The engine control computer then sends a signal back through the CAN to the EAC servo motor to rotate (open)the throttle valve until the position sensed (another wiper arm and variable resistor setup attached to the throttle shaft, ) by the computer (signals traveling again through the powdered wiring insulation and CAN) is correct for the commanded accelerator position, AND the ASR (acceleration slip reduction) system and sensors are not indicating wheel spin.

You ask for more throttle, the computer gives it--provided everything works as intended. You ARE NOT opening the throttle directly, but only giving the engine control computer a request.

GOOD LUCK
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  #5  
Old 07-04-2002, 04:20 AM
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There is no check engine light on this car, and yes this is a MB code.
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2002, 05:31 AM
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Just to some up, this problem was fixed by the neutral safety switch ( a $76.00 part) that attaches to the transmission.

All is well now.
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2002, 10:22 AM
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Could you expand on that a bit? How was the switch problem identified?
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2002, 04:46 PM
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Steve,

After banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what was causing this, I finally took it to the dealership. Even they kinda "guessed" it was this part, because one of the techs said he had seen this before. I guess they tested the switch values (in park, reverse, drive, 2, 1, etc) and they said the switch was definetely bad.

They said they were 90% sure this would cure the problem, and it did thankgod. Everyone was telling me I had to replace the wiring harness, throttle actuators, pretty much had my car totaled in parts alone. Im glad I have a very good local dealership that diagnosed this problem.

They charged me about $350 dollars. The part was $76.00 and the rest was labor. I guess they had to drop the tranny down a little bit to get to it. They also replaced the shift bushings and exhaust hangers. Everything is nice and tight now. Hopefully this will be it for now, so I can save my money for my performance parts

Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2002, 06:40 PM
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Congrats, Andy! Sounds like you came out of that pretty well. I do think that problems like these are one of those times when the dealer, or a very well equipped independent, is the way to go. My tech has to borrow a code grabber from time to time.

These electrical glitches can be a challenge, can't they? Amazing to me how a small switch (like the brake lamp switch in my case) can cause a malfunction in the engine control computer and give you all sorts of odd symptoms like ABS/ASR lights coming on, etc.
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