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  #1  
Old 03-21-2022, 09:44 PM
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Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
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W110 Brakes not working and I知 frustrated

I知 very frustrated with my braking system. Since acquiring the vehicle I致e done a number of things to the braking system over the winter. I was having trouble stopping the vehicle in the first place. All friction components i.e. (pads, shoes, and rotors) have been replaced. Ive also replaced one front calliper, and both rear wheel cylinders. I also had to replace one of the rear flex lines. During my diagnostic process I installed a new master cylinder as well as a precautionary measure.

After installing all these components and bleeding the brake system the issue did not go away. It actually almost seems worse. The only way to stop the car is by the hand brake.

The brake pedal feels spongy but also is very hard to press. When you press hard enough the pedal goes to the floor. I jacked up the driver side front wheel and spun it by hand. I got my father to press the pedal as I turned it. He pressed it to the floor and the wheel instantly locked up but then it seems to loose braking pressure as the wheel then becomes free again while the pedal is still on the floor.

My only thinking now is to get the brake booster repaired however this is not cheap as some of you may know.

If anyone can help please do. Thank you

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  #2  
Old 03-22-2022, 11:15 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I suggest replacing the other caliper and any other other hydraulics not already new including the master cyl. Kudos to you for running a 110! I had two of them back when they were just used cars. Nice cars! Once you figure it all out it will drive just like a nearly new car.
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2022, 02:21 PM
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Manual or automatic transmission?

Was the MC bench bled before installation?

Was the system pressure bled?

What year/model is the car?

Dual or single reservoir master?

Good luck!!!
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Old 03-22-2022, 03:15 PM
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Bench bleed. Agree with those above. You may be surprised.
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Old 03-22-2022, 04:16 PM
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I'd replace the flex lines you haven't, too.
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Old 03-23-2022, 11:31 PM
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The car is 1968 with a 4 speed manual on the floor. I bled the master cylinder while it was connected to the booster. Hooked up plastic lines to the ports and fed them into the reservoir and pumped until no more air. I ordered flex lines and also I have not pressure bled the system.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2022, 12:59 PM
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Me wonders if the booster is working.

Run the engine for a minute or two without pressing the pedal. Shut it off then press the pedal several times. It should be relatively easy then as it looses vacuum with each press it should be harder and harder till it's darn near impossible to press. If it's never easy, the booster isn't working. Could be connected to the wrong port, the check valve could be missing or non functional, the hose could be leaking or the diaphragm could be torn. I'm not sure how to test for a torn diaphragm, a hand vacuum pump won't work well if at all due to the volume and applying pressure is fraught with danger as the thing is only designed for maybe 20" Hg of vacuum which is roughly 10 psi which is hard to regulate.

Michael
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  #8  
Old 03-25-2022, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I suggest replacing the other caliper and any other other hydraulics not already new including the master cyl.
I agree with this - whenever I want to get a new old car (or one of my old old cars that's been sitting) ready to use on the road, I replace or rebuild everything in the braking system that has rubber in it, since the rubbber swells and/or dries out over time. Replace everything at the same time and you're starting from a known solid base.

Brakes and tires are the wrong areas in which to economize.

Best of luck, and keep us posted!

Best Regards,
Rob
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  #9  
Old 03-31-2022, 02:34 AM
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You changed a caliper. Right one for the side needed? I do not know the orientation of the rear brake cylinders on that model. But bleeders on all three have to be at the high points. Or there is trapped air you cannot get rid of. Simple test for the rear brake cylinders. Do they specify a different part number for the right and left sides?

There is a difference on the front calipers. Wrong one in the box is not unknown. I am being fussy here because at this moment I forget even what a 110 looks like, Mind their rear brakes. For example usually rear brake cylinders are mounted at the very top.

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