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  #1  
Old 07-13-2002, 12:39 AM
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Head job and timing chain 103

I have the CD's but, I am not clear on this point. Is it necessary to break one of the links of the timing chain in order to remove the head on a 103 engine or can you leave it intact? If so, what tool(s) do you need for this task(s)?
Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 07-13-2002, 12:47 AM
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Once you mark the chain, remove the tensioner, and the cam gear you can let the chain fall into the block. No need to split the chain. HTH
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  #3  
Old 07-13-2002, 09:57 AM
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If I were doing this job I would not let the chain fall down into the block. I usually use a bungee cord to keep tension on the chain while the head is off. Maybe I'm wrong but my concern would be getting "off a tooth" on the crank sprocket.
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  #4  
Old 07-13-2002, 10:11 AM
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Actually MB has made it so that the chain can not get over a tooth at most crank gears. There is a ridge on the pan that is just the right distance to prevent that. Besides, it doesn't matter on gas motors, if you use proper line-up technique, where the chain is.

The only reason not to drop the chain is that it is sometimes hard to get it all back up. it can hang on things.
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  #5  
Old 07-13-2002, 11:50 AM
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DO NOT drop the chain unless you plan on taking off the timing chain cover Use a coat hanger or bungee cord as engatwork suggested.

That's a whole job in and of itself. Some say "might not be a bad idea to reseal it while you're that far" but I say if it aint broke (leaking) don't fix it.

Good luck J.H.

~Paul

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  #6  
Old 07-13-2002, 01:55 PM
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Thanks a lot!

I see that job in the near future. I am just trying to get some time to do it. I have a vacation coming up next month. I may do it then. I think Paul touched this before on a different posting but, what comes in the "head gasket set". Do I need ALL of it or can I buy each piece individually?
TIA
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  #7  
Old 07-13-2002, 02:15 PM
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The head gasket "set" may contain more parts than you need. If I recall correctly it contains: head gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gaskets, front cover "U" seal, radial seal (on front cover), valve cover gasket, EGR gasket.

You can run down to your local MB dealer and ask to look at one to make sure. I didn't need all these parts (valve cover gasket, U seal, radial seal) so I just bought the parts individually.

You will absolutely need the head gasket , intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, EGR valve gasket (most likely), and the U seal if you've never taken off the front cover. The radial seal is most likely still good, but you never know.

Also having your head cleaned/refurbed at a machine shop is money well spent. Pictures tell the story....




Good luck!

~Paul

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Old 07-13-2002, 03:29 PM
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I would strongly suggest removing the egr tube where you can clean it out real good at the intake manifold end. That is where you will see the majority of the build up.
Paul - when I recently replaced my head gasket I did not take it to the machine shop for cleaning/prep work. I am not using oil and did not see anything that alerted me that it needed machine work. My intentions are to run it closer to 200k miles before any machine work. How much did they remove from the head surface?
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Old 07-13-2002, 04:21 PM
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Thanks again!

For Jim,
I have 24x,000 miles in my car so I think I am due for head job. I will send the head to a machine shop once removed.
For Paul (or anybody interested),
My car is an '86. Looking at your first picture the EGR valve is attached to the exhaust manifold. I do not have that, in my exhaust manifold.
What brand of head gasket is recommended? Does fast lane sells it?
TIA
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  #10  
Old 07-13-2002, 05:42 PM
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Paul,
Do you have a site on how did you replace the head gasket?
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  #11  
Old 07-13-2002, 08:17 PM
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engatwork: Im not sure how much they shaved, but it was banana warped and had to be resurfaced. I had them replace the valve seals/guides and clean it up while they were at it. Total cost: $345.

ronald: no I didn't make a site, but in retrospect I should've chronicled the process with pics/etc and pitfalls/tips along the way. It would've made an excellent DIY article. I've removed the head twice now, the second time took half the time of first. With what I know now I could probably remove it in roughly 4 hours without a lift.

~Paul

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  #12  
Old 07-13-2002, 08:23 PM
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If memory serves me right I think I have seen someone state to purchase the head gasket from the dealer. Before I would do that though I would call Phil at Partsshop and discuss it with him. I am sure he can quote you a OEM gasket and save you some $$.
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  #13  
Old 07-13-2002, 08:32 PM
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If your head was "banana warped" you better know how much they took off and it better only have been a few thousandths.

When a head is warped end to end and you only plain the bottom the top remains warped and the cam now must pass through the warpage. It don't like this. The proper method of dealing with more than a few thousandths is to heat the head and press it relatively straight - to within a few thousandths. then mill it.

You should place a staright edge on the top of the head. Hold it down on one end and measure the other end, This is double the amount that was taken off. It better be less than .005in.
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  #14  
Old 07-13-2002, 08:53 PM
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Steve,
The reason I asked is because I vaguely remember reading somewhere that cutting the head down can also affect the cam/crank timing. I'd have to do some research to find the exact thing I read about this. I know you have to pay attention to it when you machine the head on the early 80's diesels because of the pre-chamber.
Oh yea - it's raining in sough Ga today too - thank goodness .
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  #15  
Old 07-14-2002, 12:07 AM
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J.Hidalgo:

Check out what M.B.DOC had to say in the following post. Inside that post, JSMITH has pointers to 2 others that other pro techs participated in.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=37471&highlight=head+gasket
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