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  #1  
Old 10-17-2002, 06:18 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 218
Lambda Duty Cycle % question

On the '92 300E I have adjusted the Lambda % 3 times. It runs better. I do have to say that. HOWEVER I think something may be out of whack or just completely out.

I can get the duty cycle where it averages ABOUT 50%. I am using Larry Bible's guage and it jumps as much as 7%. Each time I have checked it has been way off the 50% to which I adjusted it the last time. Instead of stalling, it now just "coughs" when I start from a complete stop. Not consistent, just frustrating especially when cold. It will die almost every time.

I have seen in the DIY where the duty cycle was on 50%. Should mine be doing that or will the fluctuate in %. What could be out to make it do this (EHA, Throttle body, Lambda controller?).

I'm actually begninng to have hope. HELP!!!
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  #2  
Old 10-17-2002, 06:46 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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Check out what Steve Brotherton had to say in this post:

Duty cycle for 300E Idle Speed Control
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  #3  
Old 10-18-2002, 12:57 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 218
Thanks for the link! Every time I check it has changed. 2 days ago I set it to between 45-50%. Then last night I checked again. It was at 30%. Do I have a bad adjustment screw that isn't holding? It runs GREAT after adjustment but just won't hold. That's the great mystery.

The few days it was running rich...could I have cooked my 02 sensor?
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88 BMW E32 735i (make it go away)
95 Volvo 960 "Inga" (valve problems)
95 Nissan Maxima (the indestructible)
89 Ford Ranger XLT (ugliest truck in the South)
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  #4  
Old 10-18-2002, 01:30 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,071
I had a similar problem. I could get the duty cycle set at idle but when on the freeway it would move out if range and vice versa. It turned out to be the fuel distributor. I cleaned it with brake cleaner solvent and the problem went away. Since your adjustment keeps moving I would consider the possibility of something associated with the fuel delivery system.
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78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2002, 03:01 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Dallas, Texas
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Dave,

You said you cleaned the fuel distributer... Did that require removing the throttle body? I hestitate to dig to far into it, but I'm definitely game. My distributer governor has been replaced. The fuel pressure regulator has not. When I press down to adjust the allen bolt to adjust Lambda the bolt tends to stick down and I must "fiddle" with it to get it back up (good southern term).
I'm all ears (eyes in this case...) as I'm going to TRY to get it solved this weekend.
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88 BMW E32 735i (make it go away)
95 Volvo 960 "Inga" (valve problems)
95 Nissan Maxima (the indestructible)
89 Ford Ranger XLT (ugliest truck in the South)
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  #6  
Old 10-18-2002, 06:41 PM
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Electrons can do anything
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Houston, Texas
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My fuel distributor was easily removed. The throttle body does not have to be touched (at least on my 420's it didnt). Remove it, whatever it takes and I used "brake parts cleaner" by Albany. It is a great solvent. I sprayed it in all every place I could. In all directions possible. I shook it while the stuff was inside it. I operate the plunger and generally worked it over with the solvent as best I could. The gremlins went away. It has worked great ever since. In my case the car had not been run for 1.5 years and I presume that the fuel had left a varnish deposits inside the thing.

Good luck.
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I got too many cars!! Insurance eats me alive. Dave

78 Corvette Stingray - 3k
82 242 Turbo Volvo - Manual - 270k
86 300e 5 speed manual - 210k
87 420sel - 240k
89 560sl - 78k
91 420sel - 205k
91 560sel - 85k
94 GMC Suburban - 90k
97 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail - 25k
00 GMC Silverado 1 ton 30k
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