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Old 11-11-2002, 09:52 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 40
W- 123 backfires , no oomph.

W-123 gas V-6 with 4bbl Solex - wagon body with clean exhaust system. I am slowly working out the gremlins in this car. It is so well engineered and is as solid as a brick *****house in a hurricane...I love it!!!

with respect to carb function.. it has 2 issues right now...

1 - is has some backfire and gets bogged down when cold - can bad elctrics like coil, spark or rotor cause backfire too ??( new ones are on the way anyway)

2 - When driving it does not want to shift if I have any pressure on the gas pedal, I have to lift off for a second and it shifts smoothly all the way up to overdrive( mashing the pedal that extra inch) when I do this the engine revs and gets louder but it has no oomph and can actually slow use to take off like a rocket. and runs very strong right before this happens ( maybe the big butterfly on the carb or should look to resetting tranny linkage ?)

I am a total neophyte with a manual. My other car is an old fuel injected range rover ( although it will get dual stroms one day and loose the ECU) .. I have searched this site for an hour looking for clues and other than the possible electrics causing the cold backfire I am still a blank slate!!

Sealing around the winshield stopped the interior rain feature I initially posted about..

Thanks for any tid bits.

Jason Bradley
Birmingham, Alabama
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Old 11-11-2002, 10:15 PM
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,503
No big deal, but just for the sake of accuracy, if you car has a gasoline 6-cylinder engine, then it is a straight six, not a V6.
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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Old 11-12-2002, 11:29 AM
Posts: n/a

RE: Question #1, Can you verify that the timing is on spec?
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Old 11-12-2002, 12:46 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 40
Paul - I can not rule it out.... after reading my post I have realized I need to study on my own before posting anymore vague questions looking for a miracle cure. Thanks for the direction though. I'll do more work to rule things out.

Kind Regards,

Jason Bradley
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Old 07-07-2003, 08:41 PM
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 40
Cool Running like a champ again

I finally took the carb all apart and cleaned it up and put it all back together and made some big adjustments to the accelerator / fuel pump linkage on the carb. It runs very smooth and very fast now!! No more bogging down except when cold.

Anyone have the steps on testing the eletric carb choke on ther Solex 4A1 ? Is there a volt meter reading I should be looking for ?

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Old 07-07-2003, 09:36 PM
Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,315
You should get battery voltage to the choke.

The test is basically that it be closed when the engine is cold and that it be fully open when it is warm. There are other factors - engine load and speed that affect the choke opening at any point in time.
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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