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  #1  
Old 12-07-2002, 08:42 PM
mcmichael
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Talking water pump/ distributor removal

im working on my 72 350sl water pump and im stuck at the point where i need to pull the distributor to pull that last bolt. my haynes manual isnt helpful at all as to how to remove the dist., it tells me to remove the clamp bolt but offers no pic as to what this bolt is. im assuming it is the bolt in the slot to adjust the dist, but this didnt work too well. is this the wrong bolt, is there another bolt i should be loosening? i felt all over for something else but cant seem to find anything. if i am on the right bolt why wont the dist pull out ? it wont even turn in its adjustment slot, is it just old and set in its ways and doesnt wanna come out or am i going about this the wrong way? please help
thanks in advance, michael
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  #2  
Old 12-08-2002, 07:03 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Distributor hold-down bolt is a 6mm (I think) allen head straight down on the right side of the distributor. Takes a LONG allen to reach it, the standard size is too short. Long T-handle is you best bet. You cannot get it out with an allen 3/8 or 1/4" drive, either, no room. The bolt sits in the adjuster slot, you cannot mistake it for anything else.

Once you have the bolt out, the distributor should slide right out. However, if it is really stuck, run the engine up to operating temp with the bolt in place, then try, it may come loose. I've not heard of them sticking, but anything is possible. Penetrating oil is the next step. Spray it all round the bottom of the distributor, then run engine (with bolt in in case it comes free!) and then try again. GENTLY tapping with a soft mallet may help. Don't use a steel hammer.

You don't actually have to competely remove the dist., just loosen it and lift it enough to get that top bolt out. Stupid design, if you ask me......

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #3  
Old 12-08-2002, 11:52 PM
mcmichael
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thanks peter, just a few questions. this clamp bolt is on the outside of the dist, not inside the dist housing ,right? there are no visible allen bolts near the dist, however on the left side (looking into engine bay) the adjustment groove is on the left and that *bolt is out but still the dist wont turn let alone pull out, i tried rubber mallets and pry bars at the same time and she wont budge
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  #4  
Old 12-09-2002, 10:36 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
That's the critter -- factory bolt is an allen, mine was replace with a standard hex head -- previous mechanic didn't own a long allen driver, I suppose.

Soak the base down with good penetrating oil, attempt to get it under the adjustment plate. Run to operating temp, soak down again, and then let sit overnight. May take several attempts, and as a last resort, you can always find a slide hammer and attach to the distributor and pound it out by brute force -- probably ruin the distibutor that way. There is a 0-ring down at the base that gets seized.

Mine just pulled right out, fortunately.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #5  
Old 12-10-2002, 10:59 PM
mcmichael
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thanks again peter, i was still having trouble tonite, and tried a trick i thought might work, the clamp bolt threads into a threaded connector that threads down lower onto the engine, i unscrewed the connector which in turn helped push up on the base of the adjustment plate, it got me about an eight of an inch and now the dist will rotate freely but still wont come off, but with this gap i can now get penetrating oil down where it needs to be, i only had an hour to work on it tonite, so she is soaking in penetrating oil and hopefully things will progress even further tomorrow, hope this tip might help someone else in the future
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  #6  
Old 12-11-2002, 08:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
You only need to pull it up enough to get that bolt out, you don't need to completely remove it. Probably a stuck o-ring, in which case it needs replacement anyway, though.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #7  
Old 12-12-2002, 10:31 PM
mcmichael
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good news, its done, now all i have to do is dig out the old timing light and make sure timing is right, thanks alot peter, thanks to your help and especially the tip about not having to pull it all the way out, just enough, made my day, especially when i couldnt get it out any further, but had it high enough to pull that bolt, overall if i had to do it again i surely would, i love a good challenge and there is nothing better than overcoming what seems like an impossible obstacle, if anyone else is contemplating this task i would reccommend it and i would also be more than willing to share my newfound knowledge
thanks again peter you were a life saver
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  #8  
Old 12-12-2002, 11:44 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Make sure the vacuum diaphram is working before you set the timing -- if it is stuck or leaking, the timing will be very late and you will have pitiful performance.

You can also set the timing for 7 BTDC with the vac off if you want, this will be very close to what it would be with the vac applied.

That water pump design isn't the best I've ever seen, although it isn't too strange by 1966 standards....slide rules and hand done ink drawings make things a bit more difficult.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #9  
Old 12-12-2002, 11:46 PM
mcmichael
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excellent tip
thanks again
michael
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