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  #1  
Old 12-16-2002, 09:02 PM
Dave300e
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Question Hmmm Oil pump or engine overhaul?

Howdy
I have a slight problem with my 300e, no oil pressure soon after start. After starting I have three-bars of oil pressure. Then as the engine warms up pressure goes down. Hmmm. A little history the poor car has been sitting for a while.
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  #2  
Old 12-16-2002, 10:36 PM
Jackd
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Mine takes about 4 to 5 seconds to wake-up after a cold start. Than it jumps to 3 bars. when hot, at idle, it goes down just below .5bars. At 1000RPM and more, it's always back to 3 bars, hot or cold.
Been doing that for 11 years and 235K.
Could be a sluggish oil pressure sending unit, a lazzy gauge or anything in between.
I would not loose sleep over it if I was you. (But I'm not)
jackD
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  #3  
Old 12-16-2002, 10:51 PM
azhari
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Mine goes staright to 2 immediately upon startup and stays that way at idle, pretty much all the way.

Hit the gas and it goes to 3 until I let up.

I viewed a beat-up 1.8 yesterday at a dealer for my brother and it had only 1.5 at idle.

The engine was leaking oil and shuddering badly.

I believe (I may be wrong) that once the oil pressure drops below 2 bars at idle, it's time for an oil change.

Btw, the oil on mine was just changed 2 months ago.

Hope this helps.
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  #4  
Old 12-16-2002, 11:24 PM
Dave300e
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tkamiya,thanks for your response. the old benz goes to 3 bars and then drops off to about .5 bars. When I give it some gas it never goes above 1-1.5 bars and it begins to knock. This all happens within 3-5 minutes. I described this to a dealer awhile ago and he said oil was bypassing some internal bearings.?? though others said it could be the oil pump or something else.
Thanks for your help
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  #5  
Old 12-17-2002, 09:27 AM
LarryBible
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It is a rare case where replacing the oil pump brings up the oil pressure significantly. The lack of pressure is almost always excessive engine bearing clearance.

Good luck,
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  #6  
Old 12-17-2002, 12:57 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Portsmouth UK
Posts: 170
Dave

I'll second that (if that is really needed).

The engine knocks/ the oil pressure is way too low/ = you have excessive bearing wear.

There may also be another problem - not familiar with the oil pump arrangement but there could be a oil pressure relief valve problem here - maybe LarryB could comment - but even so your exsisting bearings are probably shot.

Good luck
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NormanB
230 TE (W124) 1989 with 153,000 miles on the clock - hoping for at least another 100K
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  #7  
Old 12-17-2002, 01:01 PM
LarryBible
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There are indeed sources of oil pressure loss on some of the MB engines, but that would be rare. There are pressure relief valves, but they're just a poppet and spring, not much to go wrong. Also, I saw oil pressure loss on an early six that was the head gasket not being properly torqued at the cam sprocket pocket in the front corner. That was after an overhaul and I don't see how it could be a problem in an old engine.

Good luck,
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  #8  
Old 12-17-2002, 09:38 PM
Dave300e
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LarryB and NormanB Thanks for your replies. I think you'll hit the nail on the head. I would like to know how big a job it is to fix and is there many specialty tools required. Please give me some insight into this undertaking or if plan "b" replacing the engine would be more practical. Thanks again!!
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  #9  
Old 12-18-2002, 11:29 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Portsmouth UK
Posts: 170
Hi

No straight answer to that one I'm afraid.

Depends upon the state of the rest of your vehicle - it might be more effective to walk away.

If lets say there was more to this than an emotional attachment and it was an economic decision then you have 2 options (well 3 or 4 or 5 or 6 or 7!! and some permuations on top of that) - As well as cost, the time you can afford to have vehicle off the road is a factor.

1. Rebuild yourself - needs knowledge, skills, tools and facilities.
2. Swap out with an exchange recon short engine and keep original head.
3. Swap out with an exchange recon full engine.
4. Option 2 with new rather than recon.
5. Option 3 with new rather than recon
6. Subcontract 2-5 for swap out.
7. DIY 2-5 swap out.

You can research the cost of the options yourself there may be recommendations for a stateside source of remanufactured engines of pedigree - I cannot offer as based other side of the pond.

You could get by with remarkably little in way of tooling and you could hire engine hoist and engine stand (you can do without latter but makes life much easier and probably facilitates quality work). Otherwise normal tooling + torque wrench. Once dismantled you could take to friendly machine shop for dimensional inspection and any work required on block/crankshaft).

More experienced and stateside experts (Larry?) please chip in here.

Good Luck
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NormanB
230 TE (W124) 1989 with 153,000 miles on the clock - hoping for at least another 100K
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  #10  
Old 12-18-2002, 11:49 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Newcastle upon Tyne, UK
Posts: 215
Option 8 - Buy a used engine and swap out. Some breakers will offer a guarantee on their engines, and this can be an affordable way to revive an economically marginal car.
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Cheers, Neil
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2002, 02:32 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 5,316
Option 9 - buy entire car with good engine, use the best from both, junk the rest. Drive family and neighbors crazy with driveway full of cars.
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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