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  #1  
Old 01-03-2003, 01:10 PM
drbrandini's Avatar
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Coolant change and refill question

I want to make sure that I refill the block at the correct location I believe it to be the bolt closest to the front of the car seen in the attached picture.

Sat. Morning I am going to install my new expansion tank since the current tanks hisses at me after I turn the car off.

This is what I plan to do: ( please let me know if I'm doing something wrong)

1st---drain coolant from block and rad.
2nd--remove expansion tank and install new
3rd--fill block with 4.75 liters coolant
4th--fill expansion tank with remaining 4.75 liters (distilled water)
5th--run with heater on for about 10 min. to bleed system and check for leaks.


Does this sound correct?

Many Thanks as always
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2003, 01:56 PM
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The only problem I see is that the coolant may not mix with the contents in the expansion tank ( I may be wrong). This would open you to the problem of having the water freeze, thus ruining another expansion tank.

If you could follow with "Step 6" by somehow swapping some fluid between the radiator and expansion tank, you should be in good shape.
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2003, 02:54 PM
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Looks like you reviewed the M103 coolant change instructions in the manual/CD-Rom. The 14mm bolt(very short) that you'll refill thru is the one at the top of your photo. Back it out slowly and make sure you get it threaded correctly when reinstalling. These are easier to strip than you might think.

I also remove the t-stat housing and t-stat first, then start refilling thru the hole that's exposed once the 14mm bolt is out. You'll see coolant rise up to the top of the t-stat housing. This technique helps eliminate the trapped air issue. Once the coolant is up to the top of the t-stat housing, I install a new t-stat and gasket, then reinstall the t-stat housing cover(3 small bolts). After that I add coolant thru the expansion tank until it fills up not all the way, but close to the top, then I reinstall the 14mm plug. When you start the car, the level in the exp. tank will drop some after the system begins to warm up. I leave the exp. tank pressure cap off for awhile to help ensure any trapped air is bleed off. In one old thread, it was suggested to elevate the front of the vehicle to help expel trapped air.

I personally prefer to premix my coolant and H20 before starting.
Take a clean, empty one gallon jug. Pour in 64 oz. of new coolant, then add 64 oz. of H2O. After that, add 64 oz. of H2O to the source coolant jug, put the caps on both and shake them up.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2003, 02:55 PM
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Drbrandini:

That screw is not used to add coolant. It is the coolant bleed screw.

Here's the proper way. (or at least how I do it -- no problems) Drain entire coolant system.. radiator and block. Mix coolant and water together. Remove coolant bleed screw. Pour coolant/water mixture into expansion tank (it will naturally flow into block with screw open) until coolant begins to come out of the bleed hole. Screw bleed screw back in. (it will take about a gallon and a 1/4 before the coolant reachs the bleed screw. Pour the rest into expansion tank until full. Run car with heater on for a few minutes. Turn off car and wait about 15 minutes for coolant to settle back in. Add more coolant if necessary.

I suppose you could add coolant via that bleed screw but there's no guarantee that the coolant will stay in block... it may travel toward the radiator.

**edit** Just saw Mike Richards post above. If this is the way the CD explains it, then it's the proper way. The '86 paper shop manual explains it the way I do it. I suppose either way is fine.

Good luck
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2003, 03:28 PM
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The two plugs(14mm) shown in the photo above are part of the "measuring sensor strip" as documented in MB procedure 20-010 - coolant change.

I may have pointed you at the wrong one. You want to remove and refill thru the 14mm plug that's closest to the front of the vehicle.

As far as a "bleed screw" goes, your 103 may or may not have one. It all depends on what type of t-stat housing cover you have. Some have a bleed bolt with washer atop the t-stat housing cover. Supposedly you can loosen/remove this to bleed air. I bought one last summer and all it did was leak out the washer area - slightly, but nonetheless, a leak. If your t-stat housing cover has no bleed bolt on top, then your best bet would be to follow the instructions in MB service task 20-010. It's worked well for me so far.
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2003, 09:33 PM
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Thanks a million for the help fellas,

I was under the impression that the thermostat itself had a bleed hole in it???
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2008 S550
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-----------------GO DUKE!-----------------

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  #7  
Old 01-04-2003, 12:11 AM
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Since you are "tuning up" your cooling system go ahead and replace the thermostat also. Then you can fill the block through the thermostat housing while you have it out.
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  #8  
Old 01-04-2003, 10:52 AM
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One more thing...

Replace the expansion tank pressure cap. Specially if it "hisses" at you. That may had been your problem from the beginning. Either way, good luck!
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  #9  
Old 01-04-2003, 10:55 AM
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Re: One more thing...

Quote:
Originally posted by J.HIDALGO
Replace the expansion tank pressure cap. Specially if it "hisses" at you. That may had been your problem from the beginning. Either way, good luck!
JH,

I am way ahead of ya pal. That was the first thing I replaced. The darn thing is leaking from around the metal ring up top. Thanks for the concern and the reply.
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2008 S550
1957 Dodge D100
1967 VW Microbus 21 Window
2001 Suburban
2004 Beach cruiser bicycle
-----------------GO DUKE!-----------------

"It cannot be emphasized too strongly or too often that this great nation was founded not by religionists, but by Christians; not on religion, but on the Gospel of Jesus Christ. For that reason alone, people of other faiths have been afforded freedom of worship here." Patrick Henry 1776
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