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  #46  
Old 01-03-2004, 02:07 AM
87-300E_in_NC's Avatar
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Location: outside of Raleigh, NC
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Question Any Luck Cap'n?

Hi Cap'n -

Any luck with your 300E lately? Wondering how your progress is moving along. I now believe that my FD is the culprit,and when I get some pictures posted for Steve (should be tomorrow) please take a look and see what I am talking about.

FD replacement and ruling out the fuel return line as a problem are just about the only things I can do at this point.

Would like to hear from you. Your PM folder is jammed up by the way.
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'87 300E | 2.6 engine
Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp!
91 300E
89 300E


The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"...

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  #47  
Old 01-03-2004, 10:56 AM
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My lack of expertise in Bosch KEIII diagnostics is now legendary, but I like the term "Capn'ed" to describe generating current for the O2 sensor circuit!!
Here is what I do know, my car needs the wiring harness replaced before I can get any consistency in readings. I know this because when my car is in it's failure mode I can grab the harness near the controller and it will run good. Also with the KOIO I can grab the harness and hear the fuel pumps engage.
Now, with that said, MY problems may not be remotely connected with any of the others stated here.
StevebFL is the expert here. However, not understanding the system unfortunately prevents me from understanding his commentary. The more I study this system the less I seem to understand it. I'm hoping that the wire harness is the reason my test results are so confounded.
I'm an old dog, but I hope I can still learn (and understand) a new trick or two.
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  #48  
Old 01-03-2004, 11:16 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 700
wireharness

The wire harness is a real pricey bit isn't it? Replacing it is going to take a while too.

When I do any tests on my car I always check all the connection to the CFI computer to make sure a wire is not causing the problems, it takes a bit, but is well worth it and if you were to take a look at my wireharness, you would see that it is not in the best of shapes, but I fix what I can, solder here, some new wire there, as long as the main lines work, the car will work.

As for KE, believe it or not, but I think yesterday was the first day I finally understood what all the experts meant when they said that the lmbda voltage should fluctuate when all the controls work correctly.

I used a really low quality multimeter set to 10V range, and looking at it closely, I did finally see how the voltage goes up and down, bounces basically, not very fast, but it does, this was also an analog MM, not digital, the digital one tends to miss a few values and then you don't see the pattern. At the same time I had another MM hooked up to the EHA to monitor the current, and sure enough, the current also follows that same pattern, up and down up and down. A beautiful sight on a 19 y/o car

xp
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  #49  
Old 01-03-2004, 11:49 AM
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Re: wireharness

Quote:
Originally posted by xp190
The wire harness is a real pricey bit isn't it? Replacing it is going to take a while too.


At the same time I had another MM hooked up to the EHA to monitor the current, and sure enough, the current also follows that same pattern, up and down up and down. A beautiful sight on a 19 y/o car

xp
I have a harness from a salvage vehicle. It will require 25 splices but all the sensor connectors are there and appear to be in good shape.

As far as that last statement, that's something I have yet to see. I'll bet that IS a pretty sight though.
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  #50  
Old 01-03-2004, 01:25 PM
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splicing

Cap'n

Make sure to get some heat shrink tubing for the spliced harness, it will keep it in good shape longer. Don't use the black insulation tape, it falls apart with the least bit of heat and we all know there is plenty of that in the engine bay.

I'm sure you'll get the car running

xp
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  #51  
Old 01-04-2004, 08:46 AM
87-300E_in_NC's Avatar
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Cool Fuel Distributor Anyone?

Quote:
I'm an old dog, but I hope I can still learn (and understand) a new trick or two.


Cap'n, age is a state of mind.....if you don't mind, it doesn't matter . You current problems may be the wiring, but after you fix that, I hope you don't have to deal with anything like the FD issues I have been facing. If you do, send me an email and we can talk via telephone.


As for the heat shrink tubing (good idea by the way from XP 190 ), plumbing supply outlets have the best, and I have used them while wiring submersible pumps that operate in water over 400 feet deep. They are by far the best in my opinion, but make sure you heat them well but don't burn it, with a hand-held torch (LP, MAP gas, Turbo-Torch, etc.). Cut to desired length and presto! These shrinks have epoxy resin that seal excellent for well over 10 years underwater with 220 volts, so you know it's gotta be good!

Hope this helps someone to better understand the FD.

Quote:
I'm sure you'll get the car running


That vote of confidence is always needed, huh Cap'n? If anyone needs more confidence boosting, check out my friend Sean McPheat's site at http://www.confidenceworld.com . Sean knows what it takes to remain confident.....and is willing to help others as well.

Hope this info. helps someone dealing with the same issues.
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__________________
'87 300E | 2.6 engine
Artic White - Navy blue interior, chrome rims, very clean and sharp!
91 300E
89 300E


The rest of my collection are just cars and trucks...no more "automobiles"...

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