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Old 12-20-2004, 04:39 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: DC Metro Area
Posts: 365

The person who copied the web page included links to the ORIGINAL page for the pictures. Since we can't find the original page anymore, all the links are dead as well. We'll just have to make do with the itty bitty thumbnails.
1995 E420 88k

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Old 12-25-2004, 12:08 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 51
blower motor access on '93 300TE 4Matic

Originally Posted by JSlabotsky
I replaced the blower motor in my 1990 300CE today.
Because I've seen numerous posts from folks who wanted photos of the disassembly process, I took some pics and threw together a little web page.

NOTE: this link is bad. (Moderator whunter)
I am unable to open the web page with your photos, can you re establish them.
My blower motor occasionally gets squeaky, maybe only needs a little lubrication but I don't know where to begin to look to find access to it.
Any help will be appreciated.

Last edited by whunter; 07-20-2006 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 12-25-2004, 01:51 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 51
W 124 blower motor

My motor works OK but only creaks a bit every once in a while. My first thought is to try to lubricate it. I've looked at the photos on this post and am wondering if I could access the motor cavity without all the "removal" stuff, since I wouldn't plan to take the motor out first time around, if the librication did the trick.

I'd appreciate any thoughts from anyone who's been there and done that.

Thanks, srharvey
'82 380 SL
'83 240 D
'93 300TE 4Matic
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:04 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Posts: 89
I completed this job tonight on my 400E.

To answer your earlier question, SRHarvey, it is possible to lubricate the motor without removing the cover, however, you do still have to remove the grills - which are held in place by trim - which are trapped by the wiper assembly - which can't be removed until all the windshield trim is off and the weather stripping removed. Once you can get to the cover it is possible to just see the motor and you could theoretically spray some lubricant in the general direction of the motor and cage shafts. But once you are at this point there are only eight spring clips to remove and have complete access to the motor to change it.

The thread with the thumbnail photos was helpful but for my car it was incomplete. There are additional screws and bolts to remove that are not mentioned in the write up, possibly because my W124 is slightly newer. There are also some T15 Torx screws to deal with, so be sure you have the correct driver.

Also, when replacing the original unit with the Behr motor and fan assembly, some modification needs to be made to the new motor mounts provided. This is to accomodate the wiring harness that passes under and through the mount.

I'll try to answer any questions for people who are considering this job for themselves. If time permits, I'll edit the original post with a couple missing items and photos of the necessary mount modification.

In the meantime, for reference, it took me 2.5 hours to complete the job. It could have been shorter, but I took time to lubricate throttle linkages and wiper linkages, etc. while they were exposed. I also included the time taken for testing of the wipers and all blower settings. Disassembly took the longest - about 1 hour, another .5 hours to install the new assembly including modifying the mount and rerouting some wiring, and another hour to reassemble and test.

Also - very key point: be careful to observe the orientation of the blades on the squirrel cage fans so you can insert the new cages in the correct orientation. Don't assume that if you orient the motor the same as the old one that the fans will also be correct. In my case the new motor was oriented opposite the original and I could have easily installed the fan backwards!

I have perhaps a little above average mechanical skills and a good work area with easy access to a full compliment of tools. Add .5 hours for the average casual mechanic. Tools required are T15 Torx driver, standard blade screwdriver, small phillips screwdriver, 4.5mm hex wrench (allen head), cutting tools to modify the motor mount, 10mm socket and ratchet.

Last edited by czwbkx; 12-29-2004 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 01-03-2005, 11:59 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
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Smile Cheaper Motor Fix

All the instructions worked extremely well for me. When I went back to the postings for checking on prices, I saw information on replacing the brushes (below) so I decided to just lube my bearings which did the trick for me. Just a few hours (a little slow and meticulous work extended my time) and no cash, I've got a great blower.

See - Fixed Blower Motor For $6.03

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Old 08-24-2005, 01:19 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ipswich, MA
Posts: 12
My 89 300TE was in the shop for 3 weeks and while it sat the blower froze up.

After already paying a hefty fee for a new engine I was not in the mood to shell out $500 for a replacement blower and cages.

I followed the instructions and zened my way through it and found that all it needed (for now) was a helping hand to free it up. Curious that there was no characteristic squeak prior to this freeze up.

Any way I took some new pics and put them here:

This took about 2 hours start to finish.
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:53 PM
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Posts: 2
Blower Motor Replacement Instructions

I sent Jay an email to see if he still has the step by step instructions for replacing the blower motor. Hopefully he will send me the link, and if he does, I'll post it. I know there are quite a few people out there including me that would love the instructions and pictures.
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Old 02-03-2006, 09:24 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: L.I. N.Y.
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Here is the process that I followed since I could not find the instructions on the CD. Note all fastener lengths and locations, they are all different.
1. Remove the arm cover and hex screw from the wiper arm
2. Remove the two rubber strips from each side of the lower windshield by pulling them straight out.
3. Pull off the rubber weather-stripping that runs right across the inner firewall area.
4. Remove the top outer left and right plastic covers. Each are held in place in with two Philips head screws and are also joined to the top inner two covers with white plastic clips. Pull slowly to remove these fragile clips, ask me how I know. Remove the inner four Philips screws holding the inner top two covers down.
5. Remove the 4 screws holding the C shaped rubber grommet which is below the wiper arm mechanism
6. Pull off the engine side firewall weather-stripping.
7. Just below the weather-stripping there are 4 plastic fasteners which hold the sound insulation to the firewall, the inner two have a flower shape while the outer two are flat with two little holes. All four need to be loosened, the outer two will come right off.
8. After step 7 you can pull the insulation forward slightly and find two Phillips screws which hold the center plastic housing down. Remove these two screws.
9. Remove the upper left in right inner plastic covers.
10. The center grate cover should now come straight out.
11. The wiper assy has four 10mm nuts holding it in place, two are on the far right, and one each under the rotating center piece. Remove these nuts carefully and make sure you don't drop them like I did as they can fall into the center black hole which is not accessible. (MIA one hex screw.) I found a similar one holding the A/C pipe on the left side of the inner firewall near the fuse box which I used to replace the lost nut
12. Move the wiper assy to the right, It is not necessary to disconnect the power cable.
13. Remove the outside temp sensor from the blower motor cover.
14. Pry loose with fingers the blower motor harness on the left of the housing.
15. Unclip the 6-8 metal fasteners holding the blower motor cover down, a couple may require a small screw driver, but be careful again. Remove the cover.
16. Unplug the motor, and release the hold down strap using a pointed tool.
17. Oil bearings with ATF. Check brushes.
As in Haynes (reassemble in reverse of above.)
1999 E300DT (131,800) 154,000 Black on Black SOLD

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04 VW TDI Passat 80,000mi

How to eliminate oil dependency through market-driven approaches.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:35 AM
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Blower Motor Replacement Instructions

Here is the link with step by step instructions to replace the blower Motor on W124.

Thanks to Jay for putting this back up. I emailed him and he said he would do it. I know this helped me a lot, I just recently fixed my blower motor with these instructions.

NOTE: this link is bad. (Moderator whunter)


Last edited by whunter; 06-10-2006 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 06-04-2006, 04:46 PM
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Location: Mesquite, TX
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Talking Post the photos?

Can someone find these photos, cached or otherwise, and post them permanently here?
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Old 06-10-2006, 12:48 PM
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Link not active, please repost

Link not active, please repost. I could really use the info.

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Old 07-20-2006, 10:26 PM
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Location: Southeast
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I have some basic info on how to do the job

If anyone's interested, e-mail me, I'll write up some instructions on how to take the blower motor out. I'm trying to do my part to be a good forum citizen and helping others. Since it's been 6 weeks ago, they might not be complete, one of my pet peeves. Had I known about the forum at the time, I would have made instructions right away while fresh in my mind. E-mail me at
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Old 07-20-2006, 11:20 PM
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Posts: 15
Check eBay for Blower Motors

Been awhile since I posted. I finally changed the blower motor out late 2004. I bought the whole thing brand new OE in box w/ cages on eBay for about $140. It has worked flawlessly since then. However, I heard a faint whinning sound from time to time this past Spring. It is gone now. What I think it was is: When I R&R the motor, I noticed cracks and insulation coming lose on the firewall inside the motor housing where it draws the outside air in. I put duct tape on it to "seal up the cracks and exposed insulation" at the time.

It's a weird kind of backing Mercedes uses in there. The duct tape didn't want to stick to it very good, but I thought it would stay in place anyhow. Apparently I was wrong. I am now sure the whinning I heard was a piece of that duct tape that probably came lose and was rubbing against the squirrel cages. It has probably rubbed down the duct tape to a point it no longer makes the noise, but be careful you don't make the same mistake by taping in there if you see similar exposed insulation wear after you get it all apart.

1988 300E
2003 S500
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:11 PM
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thats the new link by the way he is not on that site anymore he already sold the car
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Old 08-14-2006, 02:41 PM
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Exclamation In the Wiki now!

I have included both JSlabotsky's original DIY and jbach36's recent DIY in the Wiki HERE.

Bill Wood - Retired Webmaster
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