Repair Tips, Short-Cuts - Page 10 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Kestas · #**136** 03-31-2006, 09:08 AM

All my toolboxes have the conversion chart below. It saves me time when I'm searching for the proper-sized wrench or socket. This is more for the non-MB vehicles when you don't know if the nut is standard or metric.

inches - - mm

3/16 - - 4.76
7/32 - - 5.56
1/4 - - 6.35
9/32 - - 7.14
5/16 - - 7.94
11/32 - - 8.73
3/8 - - 9.53
7/16 - - 11.11
1/2 - - 12.7
9/16 - - 14.29
5/8 - - 15.88
11/16 - - 17.46
3/4 - - 19.05
13/16 - - 20.64
7/8 - - 22.23
15/16 - - 23.81
1 - - - 25.4

haasman · #**137** 03-31-2006, 11:35 AM

Here is a PDF of the chart.

Thanks for doing this.

Haasman

vstech · #**138** 03-31-2006, 08:28 PM

always remember if you don't know the correct tourque specs, just tighten it until the bolt shears, then loosen it 1/4 turn...

haasman · #**139** 04-07-2006, 10:07 PM

Many European cars use an expansion tank instead of an overflow bottle in the cooling system. This means the tank is pressurized, along with the rest of the system. It should not be opened while the system is hot and, most importantly, the proper pressure cap must be installed.

Why? Replacement American brand name caps may not be sufficient in pressure setting and/or fit to maintain proper system pressure. We have had many overheated customers who have replaced the water pump, the radiator, the thermostat and fan clutch and still had their cars overheating. They swore they had a new cap on the system but the system kept losing water and overheating. The problem? They used an American cap!

European cooling systems vary in pressure by year and manufacturer but many are 1.2 bar, 1.4 bar, 1.5 bar and now even 2.0 bar pressure. The 1.2 bar system is approximately 17 psi and the 2.0 bar is approximately 28 psi of pressure. A simple replacement American cap that fits might only hold 7-10 psi of pressure. This would allow the water to overheat and run out at less-than-normal summer operating temperatures.

If your car has an expansion tank, notable by having the pressure cap on it instead of on the radiator, you MUST replace the cap with the proper pressure-rated OE replacement. Too much or too little pressure can spell disaster at the worst possible moment - in the middle of nowhere on a hot summer day! Always use OE/OES (original equipment) pressure caps - those rated for the specifications on your car.

Haasman

Monomer · #**140** 04-09-2006, 08:10 PM

One that I applied today:

When replacing the voltage regulater, replace the screws also. Instead of the standered screwdriver screws, I used SHCS (socket head cap screws) of the same thread and length.

This allows you to use those ball-end allen wrenches, which are nice in the tight space provided.

#**141** 04-09-2006, 10:06 PM

improper, but quick. For those of you who don't care about pulley bearings and tensioners, etc...
cut the belt from the middle to the outside, then cut vertically along the middle at the first cut start point.
Remove the outer half of belt. route new belt over exposed part of sprockets/pulleys, and when half on, cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. proceed to work new belt in to final position.
(and may God have mercy on your soul)

Monomer · #**142** 04-10-2006, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ind12c4funn

improper, but quick. For those of you who don't care about pulley bearings and tensioners, etc...
cut the belt from the middle to the outside, then cut vertically along the middle at the first cut start point.
Remove the outer half of belt. route new belt over exposed part of sprockets/pulleys, and when half on, cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. proceed to work new belt in to final position.
(and may God have mercy on your soul)

too bad it isnt that easy with chains...

Ron Johnstone · #**143** 04-10-2006, 06:25 PM

TOOL DEFINITIONS (For all you Handy Guys Out There...)

DRILL PRESS:

A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room.

WIRE WHEEL:

Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Ow!!"

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:

Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

PLIERS:

Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

HACKSAW:

One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:

Generally used after pliers to further round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH:

Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS:

Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:

Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the > bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4:

Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS:

A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:

A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:

A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER:

A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS:

See hacksaw

TROUBLE LIGHT:

The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that
105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:

Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR:

A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads.

PRY BAR:

A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:

A tool used to cut hoses too short.

HAMMER:

Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE:

Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL:

Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.

EXPLETIVE:

A balm, also referred to as mechanic's lube, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.

kahudson4 · #**144** 04-17-2006, 10:04 AM

Need some information on how to tighten side view mirrors on a 1998 S500.
Any help will be appreciated

haasman · #**145** 04-17-2006, 12:18 PM

kahudson4

Try posting your request individually instead of inside this thread. Have your tried the search feature?

Haasman

benzbunny · #**146** 05-13-2006, 09:37 AM

I used to think I had problems where there were none & had (and still have) issues with the excessive prices MB dealers charge for service.

Once I got the WIS (workshop info. system - the shop service manual) that the dealers use, I was able to fix most things myself and at least understand what was being repaired by the stealership.

You can get the 2006 WIS for free that covers all models 82 and newer at http://thepiratebay.org/details.php?id=3478993

Now I love my Benz!

haasman · #**147** 06-12-2006, 10:17 PM

When trying to remove a bolt to say a belt pulley, try not loosening the belt tension until after you start removing the bolts. The belt tension keeps the pulley from turning.

Haasman

MBeige · #**148** 07-03-2006, 02:08 PM

A headlamp is helpful when both hands are busy and you can't see what you're doing. Today's LED ones last a good while too and don't get hot.

Cleaning before reinstallation helps you gradually clean the car part by part. It's also good to see any leaks or anything wrong, for that matter.

A good rag hidden in the engine compartment is handy for quick check-ups, as are a pair of gloves.

The junkyard is the best place to get missing fasteners like screws, bolts, nuts, washers, etc for keeping the car in its original condition (assuming you know the missing part was original).

A butterfly nut on the air cleaner is easier to remove for quick checks than a 10mm nut.

Some nice tools to have around:

-Magnetic tray for when repairing with lots of screws, nuts, washers, etc...
-Magnet-tipped rod for when the above items fall around the engine (not in the engine!)

riethoven · #**149** 07-11-2006, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haasman

Source: http://homerepair.about.com

_______________________

Haasman

PB Blaster is the best bar none penetrating oil I have ever used. I used to change logging truck tires and they would come in with rusted on lug nuts and the PB Blaster broke them loose faster and easier than Liquid Wrench and always better than WD40

riethoven · #**150** 07-11-2006, 03:27 PM

1. Download the section of the manual you need for the job you are doing and search the threads at shop forum.
2. NEVER FORCE ANYTHING. This will save you replacing parts and drilling out fasteners. Take your time and think about what you are doing.

I have been a shade tree mechanic for over 30 years and have learned that I can do just about any mechanical job better than a shop because I am not looking at the flat rate book. I care about my car and do the best work possible. With the shop manual, working on my 1985 300TDt is a dream. It is the best car with the highest quality engineering and components that I have ever worked on.