Repair Tips, Short-Cuts - Page 9 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

haasman · #1 11-08-2004, 01:14 AM

-put the dust boots on first: When replacing the front shocks and there is a dust boot at the top, often it comes off. It is easier to get it back on before installing the new shock then after.

-put a little lube paste on tab from the hub that goes into the shock. It makes the insertion much easier.

Haasman

Jeff Hartmann · #2 11-08-2004, 09:58 AM

Mercedes Mechanic beat me to the grinding compound in a worn phillips head screw to get a better grip. An aircraft mech ( they remove a lot of phillips screws ) taught me to break loose a stubborn screw by tightening to break it loose, this saves a sharp edge to back out the screw. Use a screwdriver bit on a 1/4" speed handle for better push and leverage.

Also, to avoid losing a finger or arc welding your twisto-flex, remove watches and rings before working on batteries or anything electrical.

haasman · #3 02-09-2005, 01:56 AM

To keep track of oil/filter changes as well as ATF/filter changes I made two stickers for each of my car's driver's door jams: oil/filter and ATF/filter.

I then make separate lables that go beside each of the above with just date and miles. I fold one end of the sticker onto inself to make it easy to remove at the next service.

Haasman

300holst · #4 02-09-2005, 01:17 PM

What a great thread! I'm always learning something from these. Here are a couple of things to add:

1. I found the ACC sensor up by the dome light, or wherever, tends to get coated with fine lint or dust and then doesn't react to temperature changes very fast. Use a spray electronics cleaner, marked safe for plastics, with the tube on the nozzle. Spray up into the grill over the sensor, let dry. Now your ACC will work much better.

2. Most Bosch relays develop fine stress cracks in the printed circuit soldering. Learn to solder then resolder these relays to make them as good as new, or better. Save big $$$.

EDIT: I spoke a bit too soon when I implied all relays can be opened up. The OVP on my car is not a Bosch and its base is crimped on. Maybe it could be opened but I think it would be damaged too much. It is marked "Made in Hungary". The fuel system relay isn't marked and is sealed with a soft rubbery material. I haven't tried to open this one but it looks like a possibility. You'd have to reseal to keep moisture out. I don't like the way MBZ has placed these relays and the computers where moisture can be a problem. I notice the shop has coated the relay pins with grease to prevent corrosion, a good practice.

haasman · #5 02-09-2005, 02:02 PM

Regarding the sensor up by the dome light, I have found putting a vacuum hose on it periodically does help removing the accumulated dust.

Haasman

lee polowczuk · #6 02-09-2005, 03:04 PM

This thread should be a "sticky"

haasman · #7 02-11-2005, 03:24 PM

With the old 190e several of the doors need a second attempt in closing. It seems over a period of time more effort (greater slam) is needed.

I mistakenly thought it was an improper location of the striker plate in the door jam.

An MBZ tech recommended cleaning the latch mechanism in the door that latches to the striker plate. His experience was that over the years, dirt and dried lubricant makes it reluctant to catch.

I removed the latch assembly through the inside of the door (after taking the door panel off) and thoroughly cleaned it. I then lubed all working surfaces and reinstalled.

The door now closes with a satisfying "factory new" thunk sound.

Haasman

Keep those tips, tricks and suggestions coming.

r_p_ryan · #8 05-05-2005, 11:27 PM

The fan blade on the M103 has an irregular spacing of the blades. Find the section that is much wider than the others and the cap is a lot easier to get off. Check out the pics about half way down in this article:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103TimingCoverReseal

unkl300d · #9 05-06-2005, 01:25 AM

To replace the W123 door striker plate (and perhaps valid for other models)

Note that the plate with the threaded holes floats behind the door frame(jam). Not accessible if it drops down.
SO, get yourself a coathanger and cut three or four 7" straight pieces. Enough for each screw hole.

Bend a slight/shallow hook on one end. This acts as a catch and aligner, just in case.

Take one retaining screw out and insert the wire in far enough so that it stays in place. The shallow hooked end goes into the body and the straight end out toward you. The idea is to progressively do this same action with each screw removal in order to keep the internal threaded bracket aligned and where it is supposed to be. If it drops down I have no idea how you can get it back.

Slide out the faulty striker plate out over the straight wire ends.
Keep your wires steady to make sure that bracket does not fall down !

Do everything carefully in order to not loose your bracket!

Slide new striker over the wires via screw openings and begin re-assembly carefully removing one wire and attaching the screw into retaining bracket.
Use the hooked wire to position this floating bracket to screw threaded shaft. Screw in one at top and one at bottom.
Continue with the rest and don't overtighten because you want to align the new striker to the dirt shadow outline of the old one. (So don't clean the door frame after removing the old striker.)

Well this is how I did it.

Fun thread

THANKS

pmckechnie · #10 05-07-2005, 08:35 AM

Yesterday while cleaning the interior of my 91 300D using Lemon Pledge (don't laugh) and walking back inside with the pledge in my hand I sprayed some on my fog light lenses which are original with 300K miles of sand pits. Guess what, it took most of the fine pits and cracks out of the lenses. I'm sure it won't last very long, but makes them look much better. It will become part of my weekly cleanup routine.
By the way, you should try the Pledge on the dash and wood trim and what ever you are cleaning. It works great.

haasman · #11 05-07-2005, 11:43 AM

Plastic light covers that are clouded and pitted can often be refreshed by using a high quality fine automotive paint polish.

Haasman

haasman · #12 07-11-2005, 12:04 AM

When testing a fuel injection potentiometer here is a good easy test:

The potentiometer has three leads, use an analog volt/ohm meter and connect the upper two leads, using the ohms setting.

Move the potentiometer slowly and the needle should swing smoothly and evenly. If rough or jerking readings are display it is bad.

Haasman

Fourings · #13 07-11-2005, 11:07 AM

A long screwdriver makes an excellent "stethoscope" for pinpointing noises coming from a running engine.

Spraying water from a squirt bottle (not a hose!), or carb cleaner, is useful for tracking down vacuum leaks. Never use anything with silicone in it for this purpose. You will damage your oxygen sensor.

haasman · #14 08-07-2005, 07:54 PM

Quote:

A simple trick for diagnosing brake hose restriction..

Jack that wheel and go push the brake pedal down very hard.. once

Now go try and hand turn the wheel... if it is locked or very hard to turn, loosen the bleeder . If it now turns easily, it is a bad hose .. if it still is hard to turn, you have a sticking caliper or dragging emergency brake.

Thanks to Arthur Dalton's response to a thread regarding a hot rear wheel.

Haasman

#15 04-09-2006, 10:06 PM

improper, but quick. For those of you who don't care about pulley bearings and tensioners, etc...
cut the belt from the middle to the outside, then cut vertically along the middle at the first cut start point.
Remove the outer half of belt. route new belt over exposed part of sprockets/pulleys, and when half on, cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. proceed to work new belt in to final position.
(and may God have mercy on your soul)