Repair Tips, Short-Cuts - Page 10 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Monomer · #1 04-10-2006, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ind12c4funn

improper, but quick. For those of you who don't care about pulley bearings and tensioners, etc...
cut the belt from the middle to the outside, then cut vertically along the middle at the first cut start point.
Remove the outer half of belt. route new belt over exposed part of sprockets/pulleys, and when half on, cut the remaining half of the old belt and remove. proceed to work new belt in to final position.
(and may God have mercy on your soul)

too bad it isnt that easy with chains...

kahudson4 · #2 04-17-2006, 11:04 AM

Need some information on how to tighten side view mirrors on a 1998 S500.
Any help will be appreciated

haasman · #3 04-17-2006, 01:18 PM

kahudson4

Try posting your request individually instead of inside this thread. Have your tried the search feature?

Haasman

benzbunny · #4 05-13-2006, 10:37 AM

I used to think I had problems where there were none & had (and still have) issues with the excessive prices MB dealers charge for service.

Once I got the WIS (workshop info. system - the shop service manual) that the dealers use, I was able to fix most things myself and at least understand what was being repaired by the stealership.

You can get the 2006 WIS for free that covers all models 82 and newer at http://thepiratebay.org/details.php?id=3478993

Now I love my Benz!

haasman · #5 06-12-2006, 11:17 PM

When trying to remove a bolt to say a belt pulley, try not loosening the belt tension until after you start removing the bolts. The belt tension keeps the pulley from turning.

Haasman

MBeige · #6 07-03-2006, 03:08 PM

A headlamp is helpful when both hands are busy and you can't see what you're doing. Today's LED ones last a good while too and don't get hot.

Cleaning before reinstallation helps you gradually clean the car part by part. It's also good to see any leaks or anything wrong, for that matter.

A good rag hidden in the engine compartment is handy for quick check-ups, as are a pair of gloves.

The junkyard is the best place to get missing fasteners like screws, bolts, nuts, washers, etc for keeping the car in its original condition (assuming you know the missing part was original).

A butterfly nut on the air cleaner is easier to remove for quick checks than a 10mm nut.

Some nice tools to have around:

-Magnetic tray for when repairing with lots of screws, nuts, washers, etc...
-Magnet-tipped rod for when the above items fall around the engine (not in the engine!)

minimike1 · #7 02-15-2008, 01:23 AM

Great thread. When trying to remove a stuck bolt,nut or screw, try tightening it a cinch first, then loosening it. This tightening breaks the surface contact and usually come apart easily, without stripping the head.

WD 40 is not for loosening stuck parts. It displaces water (water displacer 40). To free up stuck parts, PB is best as mentioned, but kerosene is the main ingredient you'll get from many of the commercial sellers to free up rust. Diesel fuel will work also.

When using heat to remove a stuck bolt or nut, you want to heat the item until cherry red and then let it cool by itself. What happens is the metal after cooling actually shrinks. Make sure you heat the right bit. you don't want to shrink a stuck nut onto a stud.
You are not expanding the metal to loosen it. A popular misconception.

Always wear eye protection, also ear protection and gloves when needed.

To wash down a greasy engine, I lay out a plastic drop cloth, and drive the car up onto it. Then I put lots of open newpaper down under the engine compartment. I use degreasers with a cold engine, and some stiff used paint brushes to help agitate the grease. I use brake clean to wash the gunk off, and it collects in the news paper on the drop cloth. When I"m done, I gather the plastic drop cloth with the newspaper inside and put the whole lot into a garbage bag and take it to the dump.
Usually I'll try to let the brake clean thinners evaporate a while before I pack it into the bag.

burntcloth · #8 02-20-2008, 01:02 AM

Protect and clean the vinyl dashboard with "303 aerospace protectant" (I got mine at a kayaking shop, available online of course): it's a high UV rated, non-silicone protectant (apparentlly unlike Armor-all, which is not recommended).

When removing those allen-head type bolts (such as the two that hold on the starter to a W123), clean the recesses out first. I didn't, when trying to remove aforementioned starter bolts & stripped the recess because of the minimal contact caused by dirt/grease/etc. impacted inside the bolt head.

Chad300tdt · #9 02-22-2008, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burntcloth

When removing those allen-head type bolts (such as the two that hold on the starter to a W123), clean the recesses out first. I didn't, when trying to remove aforementioned starter bolts & stripped the recess because of the minimal contact caused by dirt/grease/etc. impacted inside the bolt head.

I use Brake cleaner to clean out the allen heads and a hammer to seat the bit all the way into the head. Also, use AeroKroil penetrating oil available from kanolabs.com. It makes PB Blaster look like water. I've heard JB-80 is just as amazing but I can't find it anywhere.

**Also, NEVER use silicone adhesive/sealant as is traps corrosive moisture as it cures and actually CAUSES RUST. Butyl sealant is a good alternative.

Kestas · #10 02-22-2008, 09:56 AM

If you have a problem with wiper blade function, first clean the blades and windshield before throwing money at new blades. I use Bon Ami (and Rain-X) on the windshield, and alcohol to clean the blades. This often solves the problem.

In the last sleety storm we had I found a barrelful of wiper blades tossed in the trash outside the auto parts store. I took home about 15 blades and found most of them still in excellent shape. All I have to do is trim them to size. I don't think I'll have to pay money for wiper blades ever again. (Also good for the environment - less waste.)

Every so often I flip the blades on my cars so they undo the set they take in the parked position.

Kestas · #11 09-20-2009, 08:00 PM

I just fixed the awful spray pattern from my windshield squirters. It took a 0.025" drill bit to gently ream out the deposits in the nozzle. I don't know if it was calcium deposits, corrosion, or wax that can make its way into the hole, but the drill bit reamed it out. I then disconnected the water line and backflushed the deposits with a squirt bottle.

Sometimes that isn't enough to unclog the system. In that case, drain the washer fluid reservoir, and flush the reservoir with a garden hose, letting the water overflow for a long time to flush out the solids. Then disconnect the hose at the nozzles and operate the washer fluid to flush a lot of water through the system. That should get rid of any clinkers that may clog the nozzles. At that point you should be good to go for the season. This is an often overlooked maintenance item that should be done periodically when your washer fluid spray seems a bit off.

Ron Johnstone · #12 09-20-2009, 08:09 PM

I'm a bit surprised at having to use a 0.025 drill bit on the washers. I've always been able to use 0.015 stiff wire to clean them out, but as long as you still have a good spray pattern, whatever works best!

Kestas · #13 09-20-2009, 08:47 PM

I first tried a wire, but I was still left with a poor pattern. I could feel the reaming action and see the deposits when I used the drill bit.

Kestas · #14 09-24-2009, 11:05 AM

For those of you with pre-OBD2 (pre-1996) vehicles, keep a code reader and a list of trouble codes in the car with you. This can come in handy during longer trips.

Ron Johnstone · #15 01-03-2012, 03:14 PM

I might add that attention should be made to the condition of the covers of your headlights. Any degradation to the clarity or transparency of the lights significantly impacts their usage. Plastic polishing kits are available at all auto parts stores that will bring them back to almost new condition. In any case, a good cleaning and then a good coat of wax or a coating of Rain-X will keep them clean. Any degradation to the reflectors in the tail or marker lights should be taken care of with a fresh coat of paint (Krylon has a good quality shiny silver in a spray can) or use heavy duty aluminum foil. Clean, Wax or Rain-X those covers too! Finally, Rain-X works wonders for all your windows to help visibility and also carry an anti-fog cloth for the inside of your windshield when conditions are nasty.