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#1
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Brake pad paste
The shop manual says to use brake pad paste (PN 001 989 10 51) on the brake pad lining backplate. Is this also a "special" Mercedes item, or can any antisqueal paste work?
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K |
#2
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I use antisieze compound on the places where the pad rests on the caliper and where the pistons push on the pad. I have a bunch of mercedes grease, but I dont use it. Sometimes brakes will make noise no matter what you do...Look at my other posts about my troubles with brakes, I have tried everything. I use loctite high temperature antisieze, I think its nickel, but im not 100% sure.
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#3
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I've had good luck with Permatex "Disc Brake Quiet". It's blue stuff that comes in a aerosol can, and you spray it on the piston side of the brake pads.
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#4
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Just did the brakes and the senior mechanic at the local Mercedes dealer also recommended anti-seize paste. He showed me a can of permatex antiseize past that he uses. He recommends a small amount where the caliper piston touches the pad ( sort of a circular shape) AND where the edges sit in the caliper.
Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#5
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Kestas:
I use the cheap stuff from autozone and it works great. It is red and comes in a bottle of about 6 oz. More than I'll ever use for $3. I did learn from this site it is best to let the paste "cure" for a while before applying the brakes: For example overnight. Otherwise the paste just squirts out of the places you need it. I had to do mine twice because I didn't allow it to cure the first time. I would suggest using more pate than you think is just enough to do the job. Also, I used some Berryman's "Brakeklean" to flush out the old anti-squeal and dust from around the pistons before reinstalling the pads and shims. I like to really clean the inside of my rims when I have the wheels off the car, too. Go ahead, call me anal. |
#6
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I clean my rims everytime I wash my car, it keeps them looking new from the inside and out.
Also dress the brake pads so they seat into your old rotors, meaning put a chamfer on the edges of the pad.
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Some of those responding here refer to anti-sieze compound, others to anti squeal paste. The original question was surrounding the anti squeal paste.
I have never found a need for anti sieze compound on brake components, in fact it would kind of worry me to have it that near the friction surfaces. The anti squeal compound, on the other hand, works great if applied according to the directions and, as previous poster said, let cure before applying brakes. Have a great day, |
#9
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I've never had to use anti-squeal paste with my Mercedes but when I recently ordered new pads I also ordered packages of M-B anti-squeal paste at $.85/each.
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#10
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I have never used the 'greasy' MB stuff on the pad backs. I looked at it, and decided to 'stick' with the sticky adhesive stuff from the parts stores. It has always served me well over the years.
I prefer the squeeze bottle over the spray. Tip: The newer formulas will be ruined if they freeze. Must be due to 'low voc' or something. I use a very thin coating of synthetic moly brake grease (Sta-Lube) on all sliding surfaces on the pad carriers (and pins for the multi-piston models), which is designed for this very purpose. It has proven to hold up well. I have doubts about anti-seize in this application, but it might work. This detail is somewhat less important on some MBs, due to those nice stainless shims the pads glide on. The pins that the caliper 'floats' on get silicone grease. This stuff has held up really well for this application, and it appears to be kind to the rubber boots. Best of luck.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#11
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Brake pad paste
Never had to use it when I did the pads on my W124...and never had a squeak problem...until now!
![]() So I will get some and do them this weekend. I never seem to have any around when I need it...probably from the days of eating paste in kindergarten! ![]()
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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car |
#12
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Curiosity got the better of me...
With some of the talk going toward antisieze compound being used for anti squeal, I decided to analyze the paste from the brakes I replaced. The stuff is gray in color.
It's essentially made of copper flakes in an organic carrier. There's some aluminum and zinc in the mixture, but most of it is copper. It appears that it could be copper-based antisieze compound. Similar material is used for antifretting compounds used in bearing mount applications. I don't know if the brakes are original as I bought the car with 52,000 miles on it. The thinnest pad has 3mm left from an original thickness of 11mm. (It contacts the sensor at 2.5mm!)
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K |
#13
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Permatex makes a 'high temp' Anti-seize paste with copper in it. Perhaps that is what you are looking at.
Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, and battery cable connections. The 'regular' anti-seize contains a lot of aluminum. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F Suggested Applications: For easy removal of spark plugs, cylinder head and exhaust head bolts. Then there is the 'super high temp' Nickel Anti-Seize: Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F. Note, however, that brake use is NOT a suggested application for any of these. Link to Permatex products They do make Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube for this purpose, which has a full synthetic base. I use this stuff from CRC/Sta-Lube: ![]()
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#14
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I use the PermaTex Ultra Disc Brake Caliber Lube which I think is the same as the MB Brake Grease.
I use only "yellow-box" Textar pads, and I have kept the stainless-steel shim that goes between pad and pistions installed with a thin layer of the Ultra lube on both sides. No squeals and wife doesn't complain. :-) neil 1988 360TE AMG 1993 500E |
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