Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 04-03-2004, 02:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 508
UpDate: re my original squeak problem.
As usual, Steve was right on the dot.
Ball joints were dry and rusty.
2 new ball joints later and a wheel alignment, everything is back to normal.,
JackD
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 04-03-2004, 03:06 PM
dtf dtf is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: South East CT
Posts: 845
So Stevebfl, Do you mean the when my dealer told me that for my '94 wagon, the whole control arm needed to be replaced because the ball joint can't be replaced separately - they were not accurate? I've caught them in a few 'incorrect diagnoses' before by educating myself on this site. Maybe this is another case of that? Thanks for correcting my goof in the previous post.
__________________
dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (217,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (124,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 98,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 10,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-03-2004, 03:38 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
There are a few differences on 93on 124 cars, so before I wrote that I looked the parts up for a 124.032 car. I went to the frame with the lower control arm and there was a ball joint pictured.

Just for curiousity I thought I would look up the number for 124.032 and 124.034 and .036 cars. Ooooooops! The picture shows a ball joint but NO it doesn't apply to that model. There are two separate control arms that were new with the 124.032 body; one for "sports undercarriage". Neither have ball joints listed separately.

So I need to correct my ealier statement that all 124 ball joints are replacable. Looks like all cars up to 1992.
__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 04-03-2004, 04:35 PM
dtf dtf is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: South East CT
Posts: 845
Thanks for clarifying Steve. One reason why I read all your posts is because of your commitment to get it right. I feel a little more comfortable with the MB dealer diagnosis now. That control arm job was almost $800 back then, CT prices. I really don't have a problem with them but I try to be an educated consumer. They've helped out many, many times.
__________________
dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (217,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (124,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 98,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 10,000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 04-03-2004, 07:12 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 897
Well.... on my '95 E300 D, the lower ball joints are certainly replaceable independently of the control arm. Had it done recently - in fact to fix a squeak, which it did!

Rgds,
Chris W.
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 04-03-2004, 08:38 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
Posts: 6,844
Yes, it appears the diesel models continued with the early control arm. The early cars use 124 330 30 07 for the left lower control arm. On those chassis with sports undercarriage the left arm is 124 330 40 07.

The 124.032 shows 124 330 34 07 or 36 07 for sports undercarriage for the left side. Interestingly the 124.034 and 036 cars offer only the standard control arm with the 500e being made early enough that by chassis number one could need the 30 07 or the 34 07. All 032,034, and 036 cars after some point only use the later arms which don't show a ball joint replacement part.
__________________
Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 04-04-2004, 10:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Allentown, PA
Posts: 482
" A squeeking joint is usually one that is tight due to getting packed with rust. If really tight it will affect the steerings ability to return and that makes the car track badly, as one will be constantly chasing the steering." per Steve

I had this exact situation with my 94 e320 Wagon. However, after the installation, an inde MB shop, an auto body shop using a Hunter and an elder gentleman who just uses his fingers were unable to make it track straight. All noted the car has original undercarriage without any cosmetic aka accident repair. Currently Caster left @10.0 right @10.7.

The original installer of the right lower control arm took almost a week. He said he broke his spring compressor while doing my car. Then, he couldn't get the alignment correct "until I purchased new tires". I haven't gone back since.

After every other shop switched tires and poked and probed every bushing etc. I'm wondering...

Could the spring or another component be bent or installed incorrectly to cause the car to still pull to the right?
Bob
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 04-06-2004, 03:18 PM
Holeshot's Avatar
Have gunsight will travel
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: (near) Seattle, WA
Posts: 258
OK, so I'm out there bouncing around on the car and I noticed that with the tirs on the ground and bouncing the left-front (where the squeez/groan is) it makes the sound when pushing fender up and down.

I'm wondering if maybe the strut is toast? But would it fail in that manor and that quickly?

Or do the balljoints sometimes make thier complaints heard with suspension compression as well?

THX!!!
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------
David - Bremerton, WA
1999 CLK430 - daily driver
1995 993 C2 - race modified (auto-x weapon)
2000 Durango - parts and dirt bike hauler
2005 KTM950S - Baja, here I come!!!
Bloggy blogger blog
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 04-06-2004, 03:40 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Norfolk VA
Posts: 142
Holeshot, like I said earlier, squirt some oil / lubricant into the ball joint boot. If the squeak goes away.....
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 04-06-2004, 03:53 PM
Holeshot's Avatar
Have gunsight will travel
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: (near) Seattle, WA
Posts: 258
Quote:
Originally posted by JoeR
Holeshot, like I said earlier, squirt some oil / lubricant into the ball joint boot. If the squeak goes away.....
OK. I have to clain the *dumb* flag here.. Right now the boot is not ripped so there is no opening unless:

1 - I create one (then I guess I have to replace it anyway.. or at least get a new boot)

2 - ply it up and try that? Can that be done? I've spent the last 8 years mostly working on motorcycles and my cag skills are VERY VERY rusty so I'm not sure exactly *how* to do that but I'll do that! I did shoot oil onto everything that looked like it moved but not actualy *into* the joints.

This brings up another question. Would it be safe to drill out a hole in the bottom and install a greese fitting?

EDIT: AHAHA based on the amount of rust I see inside the ball joint (after I pried up the circlip and the boot) I'm thinking that this is the source of the noise. At least I know it's something that has to be replaced.. thanks for the suggest to dig in deeper... now to source the part locally (if I can).
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------
David - Bremerton, WA
1999 CLK430 - daily driver
1995 993 C2 - race modified (auto-x weapon)
2000 Durango - parts and dirt bike hauler
2005 KTM950S - Baja, here I come!!!
Bloggy blogger blog

Last edited by Holeshot; 04-06-2004 at 04:22 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 04-06-2004, 03:55 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,006
Some later models have a ball joint that is welded in place & not replaclable. Exactly model information is specified in the factory service manuals. Part of the differences are explained by the BIG brakes on some models.
__________________
Brian Toscano
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 04-07-2004, 12:17 PM
Holeshot's Avatar
Have gunsight will travel
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: (near) Seattle, WA
Posts: 258
Any suggestions on who to orde the balljoints from? Locally they are asking $60 ~ $70 to order the part. I thought I read that I could expect to pay about 1/2 that... (or close).
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------
David - Bremerton, WA
1999 CLK430 - daily driver
1995 993 C2 - race modified (auto-x weapon)
2000 Durango - parts and dirt bike hauler
2005 KTM950S - Baja, here I come!!!
Bloggy blogger blog
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 04-07-2004, 12:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Norfolk VA
Posts: 142
Holeshot, look no further than the top of the page.... FastLane.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 04-19-2004, 11:06 AM
Holeshot's Avatar
Have gunsight will travel
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: (near) Seattle, WA
Posts: 258
Awesome! Thanks guys!!

I ordered from Fastlane and the parts arrived this past week, just in time for me to spend the weekend futzing with the car.

The old one was so corroded inside the control arm the *big hammer* trick was of no use. In fact it just drove the ball itself out the bottom of the joint!

Lucky for me there was a tool rental place across town that was open on Sunday and had the ball-joint press.

I would not say that it worked well (the lower part of that control arm is not really flat so the tool was at a really weird angle) but in the end, I get the tool rented, the old balljoint out, new one in and the front end re-assembled AND the tool returned to the rental in 3 hours!

Oh, and that was definatly the problem!!! Man... was it fried!

Thanks for all the helpful info and suggestions. The *oil in the joint* was an excellent suggest.

Took the old sled for it's first drive in weeks to take the tool back. Rock solid!
__________________
-----------------------------------------------------
David - Bremerton, WA
1999 CLK430 - daily driver
1995 993 C2 - race modified (auto-x weapon)
2000 Durango - parts and dirt bike hauler
2005 KTM950S - Baja, here I come!!!
Bloggy blogger blog
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page