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  #1  
Old 04-15-2003, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
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Front Rotor Stuck

Was a child's play to replace the rotor + brake pads on the pasager side - 15 minutes at most. Then I got stuck on the driver side. Even with a few kicks of a rubber hummer the rotor is not moving.
Do you have any advise? I do not want to damage the wheel bearing. Thanks, PAT
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  #2  
Old 04-15-2003, 08:46 PM
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I try to put liquid penetrant in all the crevices I can find, then tap the rotor until it comes loose. Not much else you can do except keep at it. It's good to hear you're protecting the rotor and bearings. I like to use a hammer with a piece of wood in between.

After it's apart clean off the corrosion and place a light coating of neversieze on the problem surfaces for an easy job next time.
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2003, 09:05 PM
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Pat,

A lot of tapping and pounding. I found hitting the edge of the rotor repeatedly as it turns helps a lot.

Keep us posted,

Haasman
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  #4  
Old 04-16-2003, 08:33 AM
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I did it - it took 3 sledgehummer hits and the rotor was on the floor. On the other side was rusted quite a bit.
I noticed one think - before the rotor came out when I was turning the rotor an uneven noise came from behind it - could it be the wheel bearing going bad? Now that I have the rotor out should I venture and re-pack the bearings as well or do I need a special tool which I probably don't have.
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  #5  
Old 04-16-2003, 10:16 AM
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If you suspect the bearings are bad it may be a good idea to repack the bearings. It'll give you a good opportunity to inspect the races. The noise may be something else rubbing. A bad wheel bearing noticeable when turning by hand would definitely be noticeable while driving. If you'll repack the bearings, you must replace the seal. The seal cannot be removed without destroying it -- believe me, I've tried!

The manual requires setting axial bearing clearance between 0.01 to 0.02 mm and requires using a dial gauge. You might get by setting the bearing clearance without the gauge, but these are rather tight tolerances and you'll be lucky to set them properly by hand. I'm fortunate to have a dial gauge available to me.
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  #6  
Old 04-16-2003, 12:04 PM
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clean new rotors prior to install?

I am about to change rotors and pads also. What can you use to clean the sticky coating off of new rotors before installing? Will brake cleaner do it?

Thanks,

glenmore

1991 300CE
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  #7  
Old 04-16-2003, 12:33 PM
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If it's an M-B rotor, they state that the rotor can be installed as is and the coating will wear away quickly with use. It won't ruin the pads. And you have to take it easy the first number of stops.

If you still decide to remove the coating, don't just use mineral spirits as it leaves a film on the metal. Final washing should be done with alcohol, brake cleaner, or lacquer thinner.
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  #8  
Old 04-16-2003, 06:41 PM
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Wheel bearings are cheap

Take a look at this thread, specifically stevebfl's (Steve Brotherton) posting. You may also want to get a couple of new grease seals when you do the job as they are damage prone. Also inexpensive.

Steve is as expert as anyone you will encounter - I would not doubt his advice.

Bottom line is MB does not make these and there's no need to pay for their packaging/mark-up.
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  #9  
Old 04-17-2003, 11:24 AM
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Repacking the wheel bearings is preventative maintenance. Repacking should NEVER be done to band-aid a bad bearing. Your effort will be wasted.

Therefore, remove the ABS sensor and clean the hub area thoroughly to make certain the noise you hear is the bearing. If doing this makes the noise go away, then only remove the hub and repack if you think it is time, or you see signs that the rear seal has failed.

Steve
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