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  #46  
Old 05-28-2003, 04:12 PM
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oils...(tongue in cheek)..DO NOT USE THIS !

As someone suggested, there are hundreds of posts about motor oils, viscosities, brands, and the benefits/pitfalls of each. However, I have not seen any reference anywhere to the use and benefits of "Castrol R". It used to smell just wonderful in a methanol mix being used.(I used to race sleds). I must reiterate; DO NOT USE THIS IN YOUR CAR. I'm wondering if anyone has heard of, or used this oil.
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  #47  
Old 05-28-2003, 05:40 PM
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Viscosity range is important, particularly if you live in a climate with wide variation in temperature over the seasons, but in the long run, the most critical component of an oil is not the base stock or the viscosity range, but the additive package, which is why CI-4 oils are better for "keeper cars" that don't see a lot of mileage accumulation, but you plan on keeping them for a long time.

Duke
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  #48  
Old 05-28-2003, 08:20 PM
slowlane
 
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Duke question, were not the CI 4 oils formulated for the diesel engine such as the Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40?
enjoy your drive, timreid
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  #49  
Old 05-28-2003, 08:41 PM
slowlane
 
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mithra- Yes the Castrol R oil (castor oil) was from a plant (castor) the oil was refered to as a vegetable oil, and actually was a very good slippery, lubricanting oil.
There were various upgrades over the years, I'm not if it is still produced?
enjoy your drive, timreid
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  #50  
Old 05-28-2003, 08:51 PM
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CI-4 oils (mineral oil or synthetic based) are formulated from similar base stocks as SL oils, but have a higher concentration of critical detergent, dispersant, anti-wear, and anti-corrosion additives. The level of these additives in spark ignition oils has actually been reduced over the years because their combustion byproducts are not catalytic converter friendly and also because modern engines that feature more precise fuel control and quick warm up, don't need as much of these additives.

I use CI-4 oil in '63 Corvette and '76 Cosworth Vega both of which I will probably keep forever, but continue to use SL type oils in my two "modern" cars including my '88 201/2.6. Since these cars don't typically see temps below about 45F I use 20W-50 - any major brand mineral-based oil that is on sale. Since I only drive them about 1500 miles per year and change the oil once per year, I don't need the long life properties (more resistance to oxidation) of synthetic based oils.

The most common multivis grade for CI-4 oils is 15W-40, so that's what I use in the old Chevies.

See Patrick Bedard's column in the November '99 Car and Driver for a more thorough discussion on this subject.

Duke
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  #51  
Old 05-29-2003, 04:37 PM
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After reading these posts, I have reached the following conclusion:

0W40 synthetic is a very good choice all year, all climates.

OR

5W30 conventional is a good oil to use all year, all climates.
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  #52  
Old 05-29-2003, 09:53 PM
slowlane
 
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zafarhayatkhan, I agree, I going to switch the Mobil ow-40 from my 15w-50, I'll let every body know if the engines changes sound-etc. and one I can see will be the oil pressure.
Before I change I want to clean my fuel system, and clean some carbon out of the engine, whats the strongest/safe cleaner, and how about the Delco X-66 cleaner?
enjoy your drive, timreid
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  #53  
Old 05-29-2003, 11:04 PM
cf cf is offline
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Castrol R is NOT compatible with mineral oil.

Very good racing oil but requires complete flushing of engine before first use.

Last I used it was about 10 years ago in Asia old stock from shelf.

If my memory serves me right Castrol R did not have much cleaning agent and not really recommended as a `daily' oil.

Given the advance of synthetic oil I really doubt Castrol still makes it.

Good memory though

I use synthetic when I could afford it. But had my dislike for the early version of Mobil 1 as it always seemed to lose its shine on turbo-engines after the first 1000-1500 miles.

Syn

Cheers,

Chif
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  #54  
Old 05-29-2003, 11:18 PM
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If I recall correctly, either from this site or another, someone stated that Mobil re-formulated their synthetics to be "kinder" to gaskets, especially on older cars.

I also read that the synthetics do find any source of potential leakage, but then after several thousand miles actually help condition seals.

Haasman
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  #55  
Old 05-30-2003, 01:01 AM
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ah, the tang of the castor bean.

used to run it in formula fords.

best stories of the bean-derived oil are from ww1 pilots. engines had open rockers. pilots of those early aircraft finished their flights covered in castor oil.

though rarely noted, diarrhea was the consequence of flying with the lafayette escadrille and its cohorts.
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  #56  
Old 05-30-2003, 08:51 AM
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I used to use "R" in a 3 cylinder 292cc "free air" SkiDoo Blizzard (the original factory race sleds) in '71 or thereabouts. Carbs had no chokes, expansion chambers with about a 12" stinger on them, approx 7500rpm clutch engagement, LOUD!!! Used a nasty methanol mix that would not stay mixed, had to tear down the engine after every weekend, the "R" would varnish and coat every conceivable part that it came into contact with, but boy, did it smell nice.
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  #57  
Old 05-30-2003, 11:02 AM
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zafarhayatkhan,

I advise you stay away from 5w-30. There are only 2-3 5w-30/10w-30 oils available in these country that MB approves based on specs & none are available "off the shelf".
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  #58  
Old 05-30-2003, 11:33 AM
Bud
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Mercedes Approved Motor Oils

I posted this link on another thread.

Note that Mobil 1 5W-30 and 10W-30 are not approved apparently because they no longer seem to be 100% synthetic. Check the current pour points vs. the old pour points on these oils and you'll find they've dropped noticably.

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
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  #59  
Old 05-30-2003, 12:08 PM
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5w-30 & 10w-30 are not approved in this country because they are TOO THIN. No because they are syn or not. Conventional oils work fine in new cars if you don't rely on FSS for specifying oil changes.
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  #60  
Old 05-30-2003, 02:34 PM
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Brian,

MI MB dealer used 10W30 Valvoline oil, and TN dealer used 15W40 Mobile.

Someone from CA posted 20W50 Castrol. Appears than MB does not recommend any specific grade/brand or the MB dealers do not follow MB directions. SAE certification is probably the most important thing for oil.

The chart in my owner's manual and Alldata are a little different, but the MB chart in ALLdata has everything from 0w to 50w, so MB recommendations are wide open. Grades like 20W50 are not recommended in colder climates.

The recent problem with the FSS and MB increasing the warranty period to 150,000 miles, does not make the best case for following MB recommendations to the letter, even if their recommendation were not this wide.

On the other hand, GM makes a whole lot more cars than MB and they have plenty of engineers. They recommend only using 5W30 all year, all climates and give 10W30 as an alternate, only in warmer weather. Specifically recommend against using any other grade like 20W50.

Again, grades like 20W50 do not do much, as most of the engine wear occurs at start up, and something like 0W or 5W is going to give you more protection there. Once the engine is fully warmed up, all oil grades work fine.

Conventional oils with a wide range have a lot of polymers, which are a concern. This is not a problem with the synthetics.

Please post any experiences where using 5W30 has affected the engine adversely.
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Last edited by zafarhayatkhan; 06-09-2003 at 12:08 PM.
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