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  #1  
Old 05-29-2003, 05:42 PM
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W126 guide rod bushing

I've been reading the archives on replacing the guide rod bushing on a W126. Lots of comments that you need a hydraulic ram and a nautical vocabulary to shift the lower control arm forward enough to reinstall the guide rod.

Is it not possible to release the rear guide rod bracket (one crossmember and two big bolts) and get the front of the guide rod situated first? This isn't an option in a W123 but seems like the way to go in a W126.

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Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2003, 06:43 PM
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There is not enough room to unthread the whole thing without atleast keeping the spindle forward. When the little subframe is dropped everything moves back.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2003, 07:11 PM
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Thanks.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2003, 03:45 AM
Mattman
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I took mine to the dealer to install, they are a pita apparently. Must be cos my dealer charged me my left testicle and one child :-)

Matt.
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2003, 09:25 AM
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Question Guide Rod Bushing: What's the best way to pull/push/hold the spindle forward?

I'm going to replace a bad guide rod bushing (driver's side) this weekend on my W126 (85 380SE). I read all the posts I could find here on the subject. I also went to my MB service manual and found the 'official' procedure.

MB recommends removal of the 2 bolts holding the carrier to the floorpan first, unthreading the bushing from the guide rod tube, then replacing the bushing in the carrier off the car. They also note that it isn't necessary to do anything to the spring, but that the job is easier if the spindle is held in a forward position.

Other posters have noted that you can't do the job otherwise, unless you compress the spring and remove the guide rod too.
What I want to know is if anyone can describe a really good way to move and hold the spindle forward, safely.

A couple of posters discussed using a come-along, and some mention a ram. I have both. MB doesn't say how this should be done in the manual. Anyone care to share their experience doing this job?
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2003, 09:54 AM
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We use a hand pumped port-a-power.
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2003, 10:09 AM
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Thanks Steve. I was thinking that would be the way to go. I've got a 10ton and ram, also a 'duck-bill spreader' that might be useful too, since the distance to move it is probably under 2"? (sorry, I haven't got it up on jackstands yet, so this is mostly from pictures seen and last time I was under there to replace a lower ball joint, using a borrowed special tool of course).
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2003, 10:26 PM
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When I did mine, I undid the bolts that held the carrier to the frame. I then unthreaded the bushing. Measurements are REAL handy here. Whatever you do, do not measure just the rod end of the bushing, as the parts might be slightly different. Measure from the carrier to the lower control arm.

Once I got the bushing swapped, I threaded the bushing all the way in as far as it would go and then used brute force foot/body/tounge manuvering to force the carrier into position enough to put a bolt back in. Once the carrier was back in, I threaded the bushing rod back to the approximate measurement.

I think I shocked myself at all the colorful words I came up with during this procedure. If you can figure out a way to keep that lower control arm from coming back at you when you remove the carrier, your life will be MUCH easier. Last but not least, get a proper alignment at a shop that knows how to set up a 126.
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2003, 09:09 AM
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We use the portapower at a length of 3ft approximately and use the large footpad on one end placed in the wheel well and the other end against the lower control arm. We push it slightly forward and then just unscrew the joint.

I would place the new joints both to the same depth of thread and not worry about previous demensions. The car should be aligned afterwards anyway. I would run them within 2-5 turns of all the way threaded.
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  #10  
Old 07-26-2003, 01:13 AM
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I tried it both ways. First time we forced the arm forward by hand and got the subframe bolt started. I'm still sore from that one, but it can be done by two old determined guys. Next one I broke down and compressed the spring just enough to relieve the backward force, and it was a piece of cake- I just hate spring compressors. They are so unnerving. Be careful.
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  #11  
Old 07-27-2003, 03:04 PM
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Job's done, it was a piece of cake!

Thanks again for the input re. how to push the control arm forward. Here's how I set up the ram. All that was needed to make it long enough was a deep socket and short extension placed on the end of the ram .
I set this in place first, before loosening any bolts, so when the carrier is unbolted, nothing moves. I left the ram in place until after changing out the bushing. The new one just screws right into the rod, bolt it up again, and I was done in about 1 1/2hrs.
I did take the time to clean everything up nicely, especially the pocket where the bushing goes. BTW, I used a press to push out the old bushing, much faster and safer than beating it out with a maul.
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W126 guide rod bushing-dsc00002.jpg  
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Last edited by donbryce; 02-14-2006 at 10:40 AM.
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  #12  
Old 07-28-2003, 08:51 AM
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Good job!

One thing I might say, even though to late now, is: I wouldn't clean out the subframe where the joint pressses in. Did that for years till one bit me.

The normal reason for replacing the joint is a clunk when the longitudinal loading reverses. With a clean subframe the bushing can move within its containment maybe a miilimeter. This movement caused me a noise that wasted a day ten years ago.

Since then we leave them dirty except for brushing out loose bits.
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