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  #1  
Old 06-14-2003, 04:55 PM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,472
Stuck sunroof (another one)

Well, I was going to start the R&R of the lifting angles today, but upon trying to open the roof (to get the rails off) I discovered that the translation bridge was cocked to one side and well and truly stuck. I've spent about an hour trying to get it to mvoe, and so far no luck.

I know that you have to take the rails off to get the panel off, but I thought I would ask the question anyways:

Is there any way to remove the sunroof if it's stuck closed???


-anthony
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2000 C 2 3 0 Sport :: 180k
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  #2  
Old 06-14-2003, 06:18 PM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Nevermind, I got it unstuck.


I unbolted the panel from the angle brackets on either side, which let me lift up the back end about three inches or so. With that access, I was able to clear away the bits of the passenger side lifting angle (had snapped in three or four places) and detach it from the water gutter, which ended up unjamming the translation bridge. I unscrewed the last two rail screws on either side, slid the roof back, unscrewed the front three, and am on my merry way!

-anthony
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  #3  
Old 06-14-2003, 07:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Anthony:

Exactly what I did some time back on the 300D -- someone had glued the sunroof shut before I got the car, and the PO had it opened up to estimate repairs. Bridge stuck sideways, etc.

I got mine to move (after pulling the liner out from underneath) by twisting the bridge and using the hand crank. Big PITA for something I never use -- not a sunroof fan.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2003, 04:22 AM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Peter,

I read some of your posts on sunroofs (many many times) before I started this project - thanks for the info, it helped a lot with visualizing the R&R.

I figure I got lucky with this one - if the jam had been someplace further down the track, I don't think I could've cleared the pieces away to get it unstuck. I'm also glad I spent the money to get both sides: the "good" angle had three or four noticeable cracks in it. Only a matter of time...

Here's a question though - are you supposed to lube the felt slider pads? The guy at the dealer parts counter said not to - that that was what the felt was for. I've got the MB slide paste, just wondering where it goes.

-anthony
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  #5  
Old 06-15-2003, 02:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
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The paste goes on all the sliding contact points, including, I think, the felt pads.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #6  
Old 06-16-2003, 02:49 AM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,472
Peter,

Do you remember what the control logic is for the sunroof motor? The roof moves through all positions okay, but the motor runs at the stops (full up and full back), even though the roof obviously doesn't move. Also, the motor stops when the front of the roof touches the front seal, if I hit the switch again, then the roof will finally move to the close position (from open).

I've got everything basically put together and working (wasn't too bad, spread over two days), but it still needs some adjusting.

-anthony
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  #7  
Old 06-16-2003, 08:52 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
The closed position is set with a microswitch on the motor, the full open and tilt up are by slipping clutch.

First thing is to check the alignment marks on the roof - there is a single tirangle or punch mark on the slide and a pair of marks on the rail on the drivers side, rear of center. The single mark must be between the two marks on the rail.

I suspect you don't have the roof panel far enough forward and it sticks on the rear edge. I had to "cheat" mine back a little, as I don't have the special tool that fits into the mirror mount hole and the panel -- its a modified ViseGrips thing -- that pulls the roof panel forward into the seal. What I did was to move the panel back not quite an eighth inch with the manual crank and then hold the panel forward by hand while tightening the side bolts. Big PITA, you may have to try several times. If the panel sticks and pops up with a thump, it's still back too far. It may drag enough to make the motor slip.

If this is not the problem, procede to the motor adjsutment.

I'll have to dig up the instructions off the CD, but if I remember correctly, what you do is close the roof properly, if necessary, with the manual crank. Pull off the white plastic nut, then loosen the nut on the manual crank shaft, then turn the shaft with a screwdriver until you can insert a 3mm allen in the reference hole (down and to the left of the manual crank shaft). Tighten lock nut and replace white drive nut.

Please do not operate the motor, manually or otherwise, with the 3mm allen in the hole.....

Test the roof. Should work properly after adjustment.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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