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  #1  
Old 07-18-2003, 07:00 PM
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Ball joint replacement in 1991 190E 2.6 (what should it cost?)

My left lower ball joint squeeks like Madonna's mattress. My independent MB tech recommended replacing them both because "when 1 goes the other 1 should be replaced, too."

Now, I'm all for prevention, but I get no benefit of reduced labor or cost, do I? I mean, it is on the other side. It will just be double the price.

Comments?
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles

Last edited by brookspw; 07-30-2003 at 12:18 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-18-2003, 07:37 PM
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About the only savings in labor time, is the ride up and down the lift and maybe any alignment.
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  #3  
Old 07-18-2003, 08:21 PM
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Should not be an alignment required with lower ball joints unless you remove the tie rod end. I recently did a couple 300SD's and just unbolted the tie rod from the spindle so the tie rod adjustment was not disrupted. On one of them I did the drivers side ball joint boot was intact so I just left it alone. Took about 3 hours including the time to go to my friends house to use his vise.
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  #4  
Old 07-30-2003, 12:20 PM
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Anyone? I am taking it in tomorrow morning and I also have a list of a few other things to be done. Just wondering so I can know how much of my allotted repair budget will be needed for the ball joint replacement.

MB Only Independent Shop
__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2003, 01:47 PM
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Say, was it the right side that failed first by any chance? I'm just taking a casual poll...

Really should do both at once, IMHO.
Failure on one side is a clear omen for the other.
Having done several of these, the right side fails first, but the left side shows signs of debris and 'dryness'.
Probably would be 2x the cost, unless you can negotiate a package deal...

Might want to have the CA bushings replaced at the same time at that age and mileage. Much cheaper to do them when the springs are out, than at some point in the future. Of course, if the CAs come off, you would certainly need an alignment...

Might want to consider new struts for the full effect, though these could be done later for little extra cost.

On the plus side, if you do all of this you should be able to forget about the front suspension for well over 100k miles. Something to be said for having everything tight and new at once so that you can enjoy.
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2003, 03:40 PM
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Thank you, HOWEVER, no one is telling me what it should cost, at least in a ballpark range. That is the question I am asking.

It was the left one.
__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2003, 04:17 PM
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Well, that sort of blows my rightside theory...

Sorry, I've done a number of these Control Arm jobs myself for some friends and relatives [for free].

No idea on labor costs in the real world.
My WAG would be 2 hours per side given a lift, proper spring compressor, and experience. Not sure what the 'book' time is.

Someone here will almost certainly know.
The parts run around $100 per side online.

Best of luck.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2003, 06:17 PM
inspector1
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References list the ball joint, dealer cost at $36.50 and 1.8 hours labor.

Took me 3 hours on a 300E, working slowwwww. One side.
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  #9  
Old 07-30-2003, 06:42 PM
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So about $160 per side. Thank you.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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