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  #91  
Old 08-01-2003, 12:08 AM
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It's easy to see all the rear suspension links if you jack up the rear and pull the wheels off.

The "links" are actually heavy gauge steel stampings with a steel sleeve vulcanized into a bushing on each end (except the tie rod, which has a cylindrical bushing on the inner end and a tie rod end on the outer). Only the tie rod is adjustable, the others are all fixed length.

The rubber gets displaced with age -- tends to get thinner on the side where the pressure is -- and will eventually wear out, leaving the links "loose". This allows all sorts of motion to show up at the wheel carrier (the part the wheel bolts to), and funny steering.

Does the rear feel "tight" while driving, or does it feel like the body is moving slightly on the frame when you make turns? If it feels sloppy, for sure you have some tired links.

The Spring link, the one on the bottom, has a rubber bushing on both ends.

Peter
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  #92  
Old 08-01-2003, 04:20 AM
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On another thread, Chris W. has posted what these Links look like. These are for a standard 124 but similiar to your car.

Haasman
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  #93  
Old 08-01-2003, 05:48 PM
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thanks so much guys, I understand now what the links are. I've seen them before but never knew the names of everything. It's good to get to know everything. I'm going to jack the car up tonight, I have my jack and stands. I'm also gonna bring my digital camera down incase I see anything bent, dented, twisted...any of that.

Should I clean the parts off and everything with just water? It's hard to see dents and twists when they're completely covered with brake dust and dirt

Thanks for "linking" (no pun intended) me to those pictures, seeing them helps a lot. Stay posted for some pictures and some results.

What sucks is after the accident, like 5-6 metal pieces broke off the car onto the street. Some a-hole came and threw them on my trunk (scratching it, the guy responsible for the accident), but I was so mad at the time that i threw them back off the trunk onto the ground and never put them in to the car. They were most likely from my rear bumper, they weren't huge, but could have helped check to see if they were properly replaced. Oh well

Thanks tons guys!!
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  #94  
Old 08-03-2003, 02:55 AM
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Alright guys, unfortunately I got really busy with work these past 2 days and didn't get to jack the car up yet. But I noticed that the pulling is starting to lessen...

it isn't by much at all, but it's not as bad as when I first got the car back. I'm starting to think its the new links and bushings on the rear left side.

The rear right has the 11 year old links and bushings (as far as I know), is this enough to make this car pull? Not to mention a lot of that impact was on the rear right side. A lot of you guys are suggesting to replace the rear right links, and I think I might want to. Considering the rear left side has completely new links and bushings, it almost seems right to do the right side also. Partially in hope that it will alleviate this pulling...and because if I'm going to eventually need it done i'd rather do it now and have them wear evenly.

If you guys had your rear left side links replaced, would you go ahead and do the right also? Regardless if there was a pull or not...

Looking up the links, I get:

1. Thrust arm --------> Thrust arm ----------> $37.00
2. Tie rod -----------> Control arm strut ---> $50.26
3. Torque strut ------> Control Arm Stay ----> $24.50
4. Camber strut ------> Camber strut --------> $50.80
5. Spring Link -------> Lower Control Arm -------> $8.39
Grand Total: $170.95

but for some items like the thrust arm it says:
Lower front position. On models prior to listed chassis cut-offs or when replacing earlier version (1) 210 350 45 06 control arm repair kit and (1) 210 352 00 43 sleeve are required per side.

is it suggesting i need the repair kit and new sleeve for it? What about bushings too?

Let me know what you guys think, if this is a good idea, or if i'm getting desperate and tired...

and to be honest with you peter, i'm really not sure how the rear end feels, if it feels loose or tight. I'm really not sure how both are supposed to feel, I guess when I take it out tomorrow i'll take it around some bends and see if i can feel the car shift?
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Last edited by hedpe; 08-03-2003 at 07:06 PM.
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  #95  
Old 08-03-2003, 05:39 PM
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it's almost impossible to tell how worn the links are until you take them off. they are normally replaced in pairs and unless these are special ones for the 500E they are fairly inexpensive anyway. it should take your mechanic all of 20 minutes to replace...
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  #96  
Old 08-03-2003, 07:16 PM
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Okay after re-looking over my rear left suspension pieces, here is what i'm noticing:

LT Thrust arm $48
LT Control Arm $72
LT Tie rod assy $69
LT Camber kit hardware kit $5
LT Lower cover $8.25
LT Control Arm bushing kit $9.75
LT Lateral rod hardware kit $7
LT Thrust arm hardware kit $15
LT Lateral rod $35.50
LT Link to control arm $11
LT Torsion bar bracket $3.90

So I see the thrust arm was replaced, the tie rod was replaced, is the "LT Control Arm $72" the Torque Strut? For $72 it couldn't be what MB calls the "Control Arm" for $240 can it? If it's not the Torque Strut, does it look to you guys like its not on this list? Also, I don't see camber strut anywhere on the insurance pages...it looks like they only got new bolts or something for it.

I have no work to do tomorrow, it sounds like a good time to jack the rear end up. But I want to make sure I do this right. I've never lifted to whole rear end up at once, I've only done left side or right side just to remove wheels. I understand where I'm supposed to place the jack stands once the car has been raised. But as for where I put the floor jack itself...is this the proper place:



i merely held the camera under my car to get that picture. let me know guys, thanks!
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Last edited by hedpe; 08-03-2003 at 08:25 PM.
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  #97  
Old 08-04-2003, 09:10 PM
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I lift mine my jacking on the differential where you indicated.

I also have a slight drag to the right on the 300D, just enough to irritate, from replacing the links on one side and not the other (no alignment done yet).

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #98  
Old 08-04-2003, 11:59 PM
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anyone know the answer to the links question? It seems like there are 3 names for every link...
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  #99  
Old 08-05-2003, 01:56 PM
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George,

I grabbed the following from this site, there a lot of us that get confused with the different names:

"In all, there are five links in the multilink suspension: torque, thrust, camber, tie rod, and lower control arm. The lower control arm is a wide piece that goes between the subframe and the bottom of the wheel carrier. The camber arm goes between the subframe and the top of the wheel carrier. The tie rod is on the front side - the side in the wheel carrier has a ball joint, the side on the subframe is a bushing. The shorter, thicker link is the torque arm which mounts higher than the longer, thinner thrust arm."

Also-

MB Name--------------------------->FastLane name
---------------------------------------------------------------

1. Thrust arm ---------------------> Thrust arm
2. Tie rod -------------------------> Control arm strut
3. Torque strut -------------------> Control Arm Stay
4. Camber strut ------------------> Camber strut
4. Spring Link ---------------------> Sway bar link

Hope this helps,

Haasman
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  #100  
Old 08-06-2003, 06:12 AM
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Ok I only read the first couple posts, pardon me if this has been said:

But ever thought that maybe bekkers sent you some cheezy poof wheels? Or that maybe the tires are no good?
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  #101  
Old 08-06-2003, 11:02 AM
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Hey Doc, it's been covered already......I think somewhere on page 5 or 6.
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  #102  
Old 08-06-2003, 12:19 PM
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you're a little late to the party doc

I think i've narrowed it down to worn rubber on the right side links. We'll find out in about a week. I'm soooo busy right now with other stuff with the car, trying to replace the fuel sender, and sue a local dealership for curbing my front bumper after it was just repainted, damaging my wheels, denting my quarter panel, rupturing my brake line causing me to lose my brakes while driving it, and putting a deep foot long scratch on my right side lower panel. They refuse to pay for the damage they did to the car, I was filling to forget about the brake line if they paid for the damage they did, but they refuse, so the brake line incident is fresh in my mind and will be fresh in court.

I'm gonna work on getting those links replaced, in the meantime, I just want to thank you guys so much for all the help, steve, brian, hth, peter, haas, larry, everyone who helped and posted practically 3 times a day in here for me.

Keep an eye out for part 3 of this fiasco which will hopefully tell of a resolution, if not, i might have to call on you guys again

Thanks!!!
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  #103  
Old 08-06-2003, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hedpe
you're a little late to the party doc
that's because you didn't offer donuts as a reward
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  #104  
Old 08-06-2003, 04:32 PM
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haha shoot, oh well

I'm gonna have me a bagel now.
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  #105  
Old 08-06-2003, 04:32 PM
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haha shoot, oh well

I'm gonna have me a bagel now.
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