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  #76  
Old 07-31-2003, 12:50 PM
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SO much was replaced on the left side, i'd be looking at around $1,000 to replace everything on the right side the same.

I know close to nothing about subframes, I'm afraid that my observations of the subframe would get us no where. I'd look at it and scratch my head. I'm going to have the guy tomorrow re-look it over.

What is the "knuckle"? On my insurance sheets i have LT Knuckle: $625 replaced. I'd be ok replacing some things on the right side. But I don't think I have $625 to replace the right knuckle if there is one.
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  #77  
Old 07-31-2003, 12:52 PM
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I second Brian's recommendation. Only changing one side of the bushings is equivalent to changing one shock, the old parts will respond differently due to age/wear. Good luck.
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  #78  
Old 07-31-2003, 01:01 PM
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The knuckle is part of the front suspension. It has a spindle for the hub to ride on. It attaches to the suspension at the back with the strut and the bottom with the ball joint. A steering arm and tie rod connect to it for steering and the brake carrier attaches to it for supporting the brake caliper. For most W124's, I believe the part is aobut $220. Either the 500E is WAY more expensive, they are overcharging an extreme amount, or that's labor to install or both!

HTH,
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  #79  
Old 07-31-2003, 01:04 PM
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So you guys seriously think I should replace EVERYTHING on the right side that was replaced on the left side?

Or will just replacing the bushings be good enough?
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  #80  
Old 07-31-2003, 01:16 PM
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George,

I have one concern here, with all due respect to you and everyone is trying to help you .... what is broken has not been determined.

What if it isn't "everything on the right side"? What next? I am trying to be supportive here, not critical. You have been through a lot but determining why your car is pulling is really the work here. Then replacing what is needed is a no-brainer.

My 2 cents. Hang in there,

Haasman
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  #81  
Old 07-31-2003, 01:16 PM
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Just the wearable parts - links, mounts.

In particular the torque, thrust, camber, & tie rod links. These go from the subframe to the wheel carrier.

If you have a new subframe then all four mounts that bolt it to the frame floor should be new. If it was removed and later reinstalled then the mounts should all either be old or be new.
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  #82  
Old 07-31-2003, 04:05 PM
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i completely hear you out haasman, and i complete agree with you

we have to narrow it down somehow, I just wish I knew more about the subframe and all of the links...

I want to jack up the right rear end of the car. What's the best way to do this? I know there is the jack that comes with that car that fits in to the tubing, and then there is the jackstand support right next to it, that little circular spot. I usually just take my floor jack and jack the side up on the jackstand support to take my wheels off when I need to. But then where can I put the jackstand safely? How do you guys jack up the rear end on a W124?
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  #83  
Old 07-31-2003, 04:14 PM
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You can jack up the rear by placing your jack under the differential. Make sure it is centered on the differential before proceeding. Be sure to place chocks on the front wheels.
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  #84  
Old 07-31-2003, 04:25 PM
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George-

Two additonal questions:

1). You had said "It's squeeking around the front left fender area" ... have you figured out what that is? I am wondering what that is?

As a sidebar- the 300E developed two weird things at the same time: A slight knocking from the right front going into driveways and a pulling to the right. It turned out to be a broken front swaybar link.

2). Did you look for uneven brake pad wear? I am suggestioning that a sticking caliper or weird ABS/traction control issue.

You might want to drive the car and then touch each wheel at the same area and see if say the right front is hotter than the left front, same again for the rears.

Another question: Does your emergency brake work the same as before?

Haasman
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  #85  
Old 07-31-2003, 04:33 PM
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Floor jack with a block of wood under the differential, then place two jack stands under the rubber pads below the jack points, then release the floor jack slowly making sure the rubber pads are even on the jack stands.

I agree with haasman about finding out what's wrong without throwing parts at it, but I'm trying to help you with your approach as best I can.

HTH,
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  #86  
Old 07-31-2003, 06:14 PM
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Okay, time to answer some questions and ask some questions...

-------
1). You had said "It's squeeking around the front left fender area" ... have you figured out what that is? I am wondering what that is?
-------
I fortunately got that off my mind yesterday. It was firewall rubbing up against an engine mount. Cleared some space and I havn't heard it since.

-------
2). Did you look for uneven brake pad wear? I am suggestioning that a sticking caliper or weird ABS/traction control issue.
-------
I havn't yet just because all of the break pads were replaced after the accident. The only reason I would say that it's not a sticking caliper is the fact that if I press on my brakes, it still pulls to the right. If it was a sticking caliper it shouldn't still pull to the right like that, from what I understand.

--------
Another question: Does your emergency brake work the same as before?
--------
It works the same as before, I specifically had it looked at too, it seemed to be ok.

--------
I agree with haasman about finding out what's wrong without throwing parts at it, but I'm trying to help you with your approach as best I can.
---------
I completely understand, any help with this what so ever, suggestions, ideas, is completely open. The problem is so vague that it could be so many number of things. Even the slightest smallest idea of what it could be helps. You've been a huge help.

Is 4,000lbs floor jacks and jack stands ok on the car? My dad already has 4,000lbs, i'm not sure what you're supposed to use on W124. What do you guys use? 2ton or 3ton?
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  #87  
Old 07-31-2003, 06:21 PM
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The entire car weights less than 4000 lbs so you're fine.
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  #88  
Old 07-31-2003, 09:00 PM
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Check the links on the left side -- if any of the steel "center" are offset to one side, you are going to have different alignment on that side, possibly causing the trouble.

I personally would replace the links that were replaced on the right side on the left, and would replace the spring link bushings also if they were done on the right side.

Also, check ride height on the rear, with and without someone in the driver's seat. If you have a damaged spring and the ride heights is significantly different side to side, you will have different camber on the rear. This can cause the car to pull, too.

The fun part is that with worn link bushings, the alignment may be fine standing still, but change under load.

Peter
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  #89  
Old 07-31-2003, 10:04 PM
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peter: i think you got the sides mixed up, but I get what you're saying

not to sound like an idiot, but where are the links I am looking for? Does anyone have a picture of them?

I'm not going to do any of the work to the links because I am completely unexperienced with them. I just want to learn this stuff and take a look at it myself.

Which links should I check and where are they located? Pictures or drawings would help a bunch. The more knowledge the better
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  #90  
Old 07-31-2003, 11:18 PM
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Sorry I don't have any pictures. Once the car is securely resting on the jack stands, get under the car and look at the differential. Notice the two bolts that bolt it into the subframe. Follow the axle half shafts out of the differential into back side of the wheel carriers. Notice the lower control arm (below the axle shaft) that connects to the subframe and to the wheel carrier. Then notice the other links that go betweent the subframe and the wheel carrier. The one on top of the axle shaft is the camber strut. The other three are the torque arm (the shortest, widest one), the thrust arm (the longer thinner one) and the tie rod (the one with an eccentric cam bolt at the subframe and a ball joint (rubber boot) at the wheel carrier).

HTH,
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