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  #76  
Old 12-08-2003, 04:13 AM
azhari
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Oh my gawddd!

I can't take the stress!!!

I'll check if the airfilter is clogged (unlikely) but I'm definitely gonna pull the EHA off and see how it runs.

Need to rule out the electrics before going any further (been there, done that...).

Probably will bring out the EHA wire harness and digital multimeter coz it looks as though I'm gonna be needing them again!!!

help...

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  #77  
Old 12-08-2003, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: France
Posts: 491
Is your fuel pressure regulator still OK?
If the membrane is out you will get a lot of fuel in the intake directly in side the air filter via the vaccum line.
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  #78  
Old 12-08-2003, 09:23 PM
azhari
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cc260E

If you are refering to the vac hose attached to the FPR, I found it detached from the FPR end so even if the FPR was venting fuel, I doubt this is the cause.

On the other hand, I don't know if the FPR itself is OK.I suppose a faulty FPR would also cause the same symptoms such as running rich, etc.

A point I noted is that the car runs well when cold and rough when warm (slightly bumpy idle speed and oil pressure).

Looks like the same symptoms as before!

However this time, the fuel mileage crapped out overnight instead of over a longer period of time.

Disconnected the cold start valve - no diff.

Tested the engine coolant temp sensor to spec - abt 280 ohms at around 85 deg C.

I disconnected the EHA but it seems no different so I'm probably looking at a mechanical problem (FPR, Fuel Distr).

I took out my EHA wire harness and multimeter and attached it in series to the EHA.

Key ON, engine OFF, I noticed something strange.

The value was only 4ma instead of 10mA.Something definitely going on here.If I remember correctly, the OVP powers the CIS unit or EHA (I forgot).If this is true (I'll check the MB CD), I need to check the OVP.

But even if the OVP is the cause, that wouldn't explain why the car is unable to run mechanically well even with the EHA off (FOM).

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  #79  
Old 12-08-2003, 09:47 PM
azhari
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Going thru' the threads, I noticed someone posted that with a gradually deteriorating FPR, he noticed that cold starts got more difficult - start and stall, or start, lumpy for 4 to 5 secs and then OK.

I have noticed this in my car shortly after replacing the fuel distr.

Till now, at cold starts, the car fires, then dies.2nd time, it starts, is lumpy of a couple of seconds before catching.

I think my FPR is shot.

But I wonder if it is contributing to the car running rich.If so, why only now all of a sudden?Wierd...

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  #80  
Old 12-09-2003, 02:48 AM
azhari
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Both fuses of the OVP (updated version) are OK.

Air filter 2 months old.

Coolant temp sensor tested 280ohm at abt 85 deg C (to spec).

Key on engine off is 4mA.

Engine on, current is still at 4mA.

Something is wrong.

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  #81  
Old 12-09-2003, 04:24 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 80
Talking Your 190E

Do you happen to have petrol stealers in your neighbourhood? Maybe somebody with a syphon has been visiting the very nice 190E in the carpark and helping themselves. Just joking man!
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  #82  
Old 12-09-2003, 08:40 PM
azhari
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I wish that was truly the case!:p
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  #83  
Old 12-14-2003, 12:14 PM
azhari
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Thumbs up Solved!!!

It was a shot FPR!

And I had the opportunity of witnessing the way in which a truly failed FPR vents fuel thru' the vent hose!

Truly obvious and consistent amount - can't miss it.

FAILING FPRs may not exhibit this symptom but a FAILED one definitely will.

The only similarity I noticed about both FAILING/FAILED FPRs is that when disconnecting the fuel return line to the fuel tank, VERY LITTLE fuel is lost frm the line.This should be done immediately after shutting off the engine.

However, disconnecting the same line from a good FPR after shutting off the engine will result in a good flow of fuel lost from the same line!

Good way to check i believe.

I have posted detailed info on my experiences with tese FPRs in another thread for the benefit of others.

Thanks and cheers to all.
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  #84  
Old 03-15-2006, 01:16 PM
scott3392
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Paducah Ky
Posts: 36
your picture

Quote:
Originally Posted by azhari
EHA o-rings are OK and do not leak.
This picture that showes the 2 o-ring there is a black box that atttaches to it my is leaking threw the vents put another 1 on & it leaks two.Do u have any ideal what is making this leak? The box that I'm talking about mounts by 2 screws I have a 190e with the 6 in it Thank You scottmayhugh@yahoo.com
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  #85  
Old 07-15-2007, 07:34 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 14
Saumil,

I've just tested the system. the EHA valve is givin me 74.5 mA current through the brown wire, this seems a lot.... I've tested on both sides, I know this should not matter, but just to make sure I had good connections.
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  #86  
Old 07-15-2007, 07:37 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 14
Sorry, wrong thread....
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  #87  
Old 11-01-2021, 04:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
1991 MB 190e 2.6

In my case,I having same symptoms.replaced so far;all Bosch injectors,O2 sensor,spark plugs,distributor cap and rotor.tried adjusting EHA.nothing helps.finally bought on eBay used fuel distributor with EHA.now I have big improvement.next step to change fuel pump,because it’s kinda noisy and cut off catalytic converter.we’ll see how it goes
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  #88  
Old 11-01-2021, 04:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
1991 MB 190e 2.6
In my case,I having same symptoms.replaced so far;all Bosch injectors,O2 sensor,spark plugs,distributor cap and rotor.tried adjusting EHA.nothing helps.finally bought on eBay used fuel distributor with EHA.now I have big improvement.next step to change fuel pump,because it’s kinda noisy and cut off catalytic converter.we’ll see how it goes
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