Reading Codes - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimF · #76 01-14-2008, 07:17 PM

code 5: Stop Lamp switch . . . they do go bad . . .

deanyel · #77 01-14-2008, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willjohn123

94 e420 119K miles.

What does it mean if I cannot get any codes out of the diagnostic module?
It will not flash on the home built reader or the built in one.

I just tested all of the pins and I only have code 10 on pin 6 and code 5 on pin 7. I cleared these and the CEL remains on.

Are you saying that your check engine light is on and you're getting one flash on pin 19? Sounds impossible. Try it again.

JimF · #78 01-14-2008, 11:25 PM

He said he's getting "no-flash" . . . which is a state that happens when the DM can't poll the other modules, so nothing happens.

But you'd think that the DM module could be cleared??? Try to clear pin 19 (I do not like talking "PINS" b/c they mean NOTHING! . . talk FUNCTIONS please!) or by it's function, the Diag Module!

Larry Delor · #79 01-14-2008, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willjohn123

94 e420 119K miles.

What does it mean if I cannot get any codes out of the diagnostic module?
It will not flash on the home built reader or the built in one.

I just tested all of the pins and I only have code 10 on pin 6 and code 5 on pin 7. I cleared these and the CEL remains on.

So, if the CEL is still on....do you get any flashes when you press the built-in diagnostic button for 3-4 seconds?
Never underestimate the amount of codes that thing can spew forth - each one needs to be cleared individually...no clearing all codes at once via pushbutton.

willjohn123 · #80 01-15-2008, 11:07 AM

The whole background to this situation might help:
I changed the headlight bulbs and left the intake air temp sensor unplugged by mistake. Then I drove 40 mi from ft collins to wyoming, turned off the car once, drove home, no CEL. The next morning the light was on, I remembered the temp sensor, plugged it while the car was running, which made it run rough for a minute or two, then it ran fine and the light's still on. It starts and runs fine, MPG may be worse, but too soon to tell for sure. I cannot get any flashes from the DM with the built in led or the home built one. The built in LED flashes as soon as the key is turned to On, but will not respond to the buttons. The harness & ECU was replaced in 02 or 03, the O2 sensor was replaced 10/06. I will mess with it more today at lunch. I was hoping that it would reset itself after a few trips.

willjohn123 · #81 01-16-2008, 04:22 PM

OK, tried again today. Now the built in led/sw does nothing at all and with the home built led i get a one very brief, faint flash of the led when the DM is adressed through the 38 pin connector. I tried to clear anyway, but CEL remains on.

deanyel · #82 01-16-2008, 06:49 PM

Faint flash? Something wrong. Are you sure you're getting good contact on pins 1 and 3? Are you getting 12V on pin 3?

willjohn123 · #83 01-17-2008, 11:45 AM

Yes I am getting 12v and good connections. I didn't have any trouble checking and clearing the other modules. I seem to get different results every day I try, so we will see what happens today.

willjohn123 · #84 01-17-2008, 07:03 PM

Todays results:
No response from home-made LED when DM was addressed through 38 pin connector. Built-in sw/led blinks in a seemingly random sequence of short and long blinks constantly when key is turned to on, does nothing when button is pressed.

JimF · #85 01-17-2008, 07:32 PM

Maybe it's time to swap it w/o another one . . to see what happens??

gsxr · #86 05-18-2008, 12:31 PM

JimF (or Steve B), do you know if the Trisco Palm (or MT2500) can read 3-digit codes from 38-pin OBD1, same as the Mercedes HHT? I need something that will read the 3-digit codes. See the photo below... the LED impulse counter just shows "2", but the HHT would show 002, 006, 007, 008, 009, or 025... far more precision available there. (Hmm... I wonder who makes the Mercedes HHT.) I don't really need "live" data, I just want to know which of the six possible things in that list could be causing my code 2! Any info would be appreciated... thanks!!

JimF · #87 05-18-2008, 01:08 PM

The HHT can read'em-all!! That's for sure.

So can the Palm Scanner. If you have one, then it's a nice DIY tool. But they're not being sold here . . . as far as I know.

What module are you trying to read?

gsxr · #88 05-18-2008, 01:24 PM

Jim, the module in question is the EA/CC/ISC (pin 7, E-GAS module) on an M119.974, 1994 vintage. I've been using the impulse count method but as you can see in that attached photo, there are 14 different possibilities for impulse code 2, and I want to narrow that down to one of the 6 codes the HHT would display.

I'm purchasing a used Trisco Palm Scanner, which should arrive in 3-4 days. But someone else who owns one told me it won't show the 3-digit codes like the HHT, only the impulse count code (i.e., only showing code "2", same as my LED blinker box). But I really don't know which is correct.

I'd love to buy a real HHT but I have no idea where to find one used, or how much they cost (new OR used). I've never even seen one!

gsxr · #89 05-18-2008, 02:38 PM

Jim, btw... I'm dealing with a similar problem to what's described on your web page, with the ASR light. I also have ASR code 30, EA code 2, and DM code 6. However, for me it's only happened at full throttle, and only a half-dozen times. More details are in this thread:

http://www.500ecstasy.com/forums//showthread.php?t=5786

Also: my EA (ETA) is only 4 years and 12,000 miles old!! It was a new EA from the dealer, not a rebuilt.

JimF · #90 05-18-2008, 04:30 PM

OK, tnx for clarifying what you're doing.

If you check Menu#9 on my site, you'll see that DTC#2 is a 'catch-all'. It lists all of faults possible b/c "2", by definition, means that the "system" doesn't "know" which part is bad!

If you read further, DTC#3 "points" to the culprit (M16/1) and, another example DTC#5, points to the Stop Lamp switch (S9/1) just as DTC#6 points directly to the NSSw (S16/3).

As you read in Menu#24 (Update: ASR Revisited (10/19/07) . . . .) toward the bottom of the page, I replaced the Neutral Safety Switch and the "ETA" was fixed.

My point, if you haven't gotten it, is that you do have an ETA problem but I'd bet it's not the ETA but one of other parts in the "chain"; ie, S9/1 or S16/3.

I also picked up a Palm Scanner and it did point to the S16/3 as the culprit: my tech's AST Retriever did not. We had quite a discussion about it since he was convinced that S16/3 wasn't in the "path".

After it was replaced, my ETA is 100% functional. . .